Schwarzwaldbahn

idlemarvel

idlemarvel

Neither idle nor a marvel
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I took advantage of some nice autumn weather to finish the "civil engineering" part of my first outdoor layout. You can see the hatch where the locos will emerge and the second picture shows the rest of the layout. I have reused some old decking and 3"x3" posts with some 22mmx47mm timber alongside to hold the ballast in when I get to that stage. There are a couple of removable sections marked on the second picture and I have some hillman rail clamps to hold the track in place. Some way to go yet but hope to have the Schwarzwaldbahn running in the spring.
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It is a very neat layout. However, with the decking laid grooved side up, won't water pool in the grooves, or are there drainage holes in them?
 
playmofire said:
It is a very neat layout. However, with the decking laid grooved side up, won't water pool in the grooves, or are there drainage holes in them?
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Thanks playmofire. I think there are enough gaps in the woodwork to allow for drainage. I thought grooved side up would be better as the sleepers would not be sitting in water if there was a cloudburst! Plan is to fill with ballast (pea shingle or similar) once the track is laid and wiring fitted. I'm hoping not to have to pin the track down (except for the removable sections) and that the ballast will hold it in place. Cheers, Dave
 
AustrianNG said:
Looks like you have a well thought out plan Dave. Looking forward to progress.

Paul
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Thanks Paul. I have spent a long time planning, especially on the electrics side as I want to have an automated layout. The layout itself is probably a bit more geometrically rigid than I would like but I am quite space constrained and I wanted to get the maximum radius curves I could. I've learned a lot from this site, long may it continue.
 
idlemarvel said:
Thanks playmofire. I think there are enough gaps in the woodwork to allow for drainage. I thought grooved side up would be better as the sleepers would not be sitting in water if there was a cloudburst! Plan is to fill with ballast (pea shingle or similar) once the track is laid and wiring fitted. I'm hoping not to have to pin the track down (except for the removable sections) and that the ballast will hold it in place. Cheers, Dave
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Avoid pea shingle, Dave, and use something that is sharp-edged rather than rounded - that way the ballast will knit together when tamped down, and be more likely to stay in place. 6mm granite or limestone chippings are ideal.
Looks like an interesting track layout! Is it an out-and-back from the shed to the station, or is there somewhere that it links back up to make a continuous run?

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
Avoid pea shingle, Dave, and use something that is sharp-edged rather than rounded - that way the ballast will knit together when tamped down, and be more likely to stay in place. 6mm granite or limestone chippings are ideal.
Looks like an interesting track layout! Is it an out-and-back from the shed to the station, or is there somewhere that it links back up to make a continuous run?

Jon.
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Thanks for the tip Jon. I have heard that advice before about not using pea shingle.

The layout is an out-and-back. The phase 2 plan is to extend the part that partly crosses the line from the shed, as a rack and pinion gradient. The pretext being that the station is an interchange between German and Swiss railways. But that's 2017. Looking at spring 2016 to open phase 1!
 
Looks great Dave. I would strongly recommend that you cover your decking timbers using roofing felt as when the track and ballast are down the wood underneath does not dry quickly and during winter will be constantly wet. Over a period of a few years these will rot away, don't ask how I know...........:worried::worried:
 
Totally agree with Steve, I have just replaced 16 x sections of decking on my deck because these pieces are pretty much always in the shade and had plant pots on them so they never really dried out. The rest of the deck which is in the sun....no problem. Mind you to be fair, it has taken nearly 13 years for the rotten bits to fail.
Kev
 
Thanks for the suggestion Steve and Kev. I did think about the roofing felt option but decided not to for a few reasons. The decking is all raised off the floor and air can circulate underneath which should keep it reasonably dry. Also I have an unfortunate tendency to want to rebuild layouts regularly - the average lifetime of my OO layouts was about 6 months - so if it lasts 13 or even 10 years without me ripping it up will be a miracle! I am more concerned about the 3x3 posts supporting the decking but I have soaked them in cuprinol preservative and the few which are on earth footings rather than paving or bricks are in metposts above the soil level. But I may well be cursing myself for not taking your advice in a few years when it all starts falling apart!
 
But if you have water standing in the grooves of the decking and it freezes, might not the expansion of the water as it freezes adversely affect the ballasting?
 
playmofire said:
But if you have water standing in the grooves of the decking and it freezes, might not the expansion of the water as it freezes adversely affect the ballasting?
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Holes drilled in strategic locations would be advisable. They should be at least a half inch in diameter, otherwise they will clog. So says Murphy.....>:)
 
As the weather is a bit less clement I have done some work on the "in shed" fiddle yard.

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Switch with sensors and wired for current detection...
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The "escape tunnel"...
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Putting together the control equipment...

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From left, LDT sensor feedback, LDT current detector, Massoth 4 channel decoder, Lenz LXV100 with LH01 handheld control, Lenz USB & LAN interface, and maplins power supply. Lurking behind is an LDT S88 high speed interface and a wireless router.

All this enables me to control the layout and locos with Rocrail and iPhone Touchpad. Amazingly it all seems to work so far.
 
Is that a Piko switch drive with attached Supplementary switch I see ? Have you figured out how to keep the two from coming part ?
 
Yes Dan it is a PIKO point motor and switch. I haven't had a problem with the two coming apart yet, doesn't the cover and screw indicated below hold it together sufficiently? I guess it would have to be located on a firm flat surface.
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I haven't used the ones I have for a couple of years. I will have to look at them today. I don't remember the screw holding them together however. When I first purchased them, I called Jonathan, I believe it was, at Piko. He told me that it was a problem and that I might try using a Zip tie to keep the Supplementary switch tight against the drive.
 
My layout preparations have been on hold over winter, but I took advantage of a bit of late winter sunshine to lay the track. It's nearly all PIKO track, R3 curves and R5 points, with a few LGB bits and pieces.

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The "track-side refuges" are for point motors and signals.

Still got the wiring to do but on schedule for a spring opening. You can see the red and blue wires in place. Quite a few connection points because I am planning to use current detection to automate the layout.

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By the hatch on the RHS you can see the flexible conduit carrying the cables and another one to be laid where the black plug is.

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The removable sections are connected using "bridge lift out" clamps from Glendale or in some cases by suitably trimmed insulated rail joiners.

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The last picture shows the ballasting. In my previous OO life I used to hate putting ballast down, but it this scale it was almost a pleasure and much more like the real thing. I have used alpine grit. The track is not pinned down except where the removable sections are and will be held in place by the ballast (I hope).

Next phase is to connect the track power and test the track for running, then add the points and signals, before laying the rest of the ballast. Then buildings and landscaping. So lots still to do (which is a good thing)!
 
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