I haven't but .............. the big issue is vertical movement. Unless your track is perfectly level, there will be some vertical movement, in addition, the couplers can sometimes sag just a small amount.
So, if I reduced the size of the coupler, I may encourage the accidental, automatic coupling.
Aristocraft introduced a sort of ridge in their coupler, so that it was not only locked by the buckeye, but it was also vertically gripped. Bachmann and Accucraft have not followed this rather excellent idea
To be honest, I don't know. I looked at a Precision Scale caboose (I was wondering whether to buy) and the bogie stretchers concerned me in that I wondered whether there was enough movement for my uneven track.Wouldn't 1:32 cars running on the same track have the same problem? Or maybe there's features on 1:32 models that are not found on the 1:20.3 models... I don't know. It's just that the OEM couplers give the Accucraft model the look of a toy. Also, there's a 1:20.3 Precision Scale caboose on Ebay. It appears to have smaller couplers
rough - ish, as some short lines were standard gauge - but in the style of, yes because here in the UK we had very few private standard gauge lines apart from industrial complex sites.Slight thread-drift, sorry!
For 'Short Line', can I read 'Narrow Gauge' as an English (British) rough-translation?
Thanks,
PhilP.
Yes. The East Broad Top 3' railroad used 3/4 size couplers, so I used the Accucraft 1/32nd couplers on all my coaches. Never had a problem with uncoupling, although most of the time they ran on live steam tracks that were well-maintained for the $$$ Aster steamers.Accucraft's 1:20.3 scale couplers appear oversized. Has anyone ever substituted 1:32 scale couplers and draft boxes on their 1:20.3 Narrow Gauge models?
Yes, that is what I was wondering about. Thank you Fred. The flip side of your upbeat answer is.... Apparently Accucraft is sold out of 1:32 scale couplers. Now I'm wondering if there's another supplier of 1:32 scale couplers. Ideally, couplers that would function like the Accucraft 1:20.3 couplers, i.e., operate via a prototype (Accucraft type) cut bar.Yes. The East Broad Top 3' railroad used 3/4 size couplers, so I used the Accucraft 1/32nd couplers on all my coaches. Never had a problem with uncoupling, although most of the time they ran on live steam tracks that were well-maintained for the $$$ Aster steamers.View attachment 269533
View attachment 269534
I can't take all the credit. That's an Iron Horse Engraving kit of Miners Coach #5. A very nice kit to build and detail.photos of your exquisitely detailed EBT coach.
I must add that the latest Kadee Couplers, the so-called "E" type, look better without the knuckle spring in full view. Those "Cut Levers" on the Accucraft couplers look great, and do operate well, BUT in actual operations, they sure do not like the "BIG" fingers that must use them. The Kadees allow the use of a long, small Philips style screw driver to un couple them, without the need of the magnets. They also have a "Delayed action" feature that when learned can be of great assistance....again, even without the magnets between the rails.Yes, that is what I was wondering about. Thank you Fred. The flip side of your upbeat answer is.... Apparently Accucraft is sold out of 1:32 scale couplers. Now I'm wondering if there's another supplier of 1:32 scale couplers. Ideally, couplers that would function like the Accucraft 1:20.3 couplers, i.e., operate via a prototype (Accucraft type) cut bar.
...and, thank you for attaching photos of your exquisitely detailed EBT coach.
Most of the 1:20 Accucraft cars have proper cut levers to the outside of the car which work. I could have put similar ones on my EBT coaches, and they used a special kind which I incorporated on some models.Those "Cut Levers" on the Accucraft couplers look great, and do operate well, BUT in actual operations, they sure do not like the "BIG" fingers that must use them.
Sarah,whether there is an O rubber ring seal
She already has, so not sure why the comments by her here.Sarah,
I suggest you start another thread - this one is about couplers.
[And no, the O-ring is usually silicone or teflon, I believe, but I'm not an expert on Ruby's cylinders. Suggest you re-post on the MLS forums where the experts hang out: Live Steam]