Ruston on a Shoestring

kenefd

Steam
I've change the title as I am determined to build this loco for as little money as possible. Firstly my thanks to Ge_rik for his advice on the source of parts and an order has gone off to Cambrian.
Now you will notice that the driver has had a coat of paint and looks a little different. He came from a car boot sale and cost 10p. Repainted with acrylics and sprayed with matt varnished he looks just the part. I think he looks like one of the station staff at my local station but he is now known as Dougal MacDougal.
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A close look at photos reveals the cab front is made in 2 pieces and bolted together. A sharp gentle knife cut is followed by a run over with a sharp centre punch gives an effective seam. I then drill 0.65mm and add Grandt Line 1:43 scale hex bolts that looks convincing. Note I always centre punch holes in Plastikard. Too many times have I drilled a hole out of line. I only hand press the centre punch just enough to stop the drill wandering.
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The side doors on the bonnet come next using 10 thou plastikard from the scrap box. The distinctive ribs are glued in place and the hinges made in 3 pieces. 10 thou for the hinge plate, a hole for a hex head bolt and a small piece of micro rod for the hinge pin etc.
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Finally the control desk has been assembled and and painted and fixed in position. It would be too fiddly to paint in situ. All bits come from the scrap box except for the dress makers pin for the throttle handle which is on long term loan form my wife's sewing box. Just the gear lever and direction lever to be made and added.
So lets say the power bogie was £25, 2 sheets of 60 thou plastikard at £6.00 and 10p for the driver. There is £20 worth of bits on order which should see it finished for less than £60.
Off to the 'Steam on the Levels' tomorrow on car parking duty so no more work for a few days.
Ken
 
How did you go about cutting the windows out of the cab accurately? I have a Lyd2 diesel project sat on my workbench about to be started and I am putting it off because of the 10 windows I need to cut!
 
Once you know how it is relatively easy. I tend to make all my windows with a radius of 2mm you can use any size you like. Mark out the window shape with 90 degree corners twice the radius smaller in both directions so that the shape you have drawn is centred on the finished window. Now centre punch the corners and drill out. If you are working in metal saw out a straight line as a tangent from 2 adjacent corner holes. If you are working in plastic this IS IMPORTANT. Score a tangent from the 2 adjacent corner points to the centre of the line and score away from the drilled holes. If you score into the holes you will damage the radius cut. In metal dress off the edges to finish. In plastic drill 2 holes in the centre then using a piercing saw or small side cutters cut between the centre holes and the corner holes and then break out the rest of the surplus. A quick dress with a very light file or some wet & dry 240 grade finishes it off a treat.
Best of Luck
ken
 
Having spent last weekend helping park cars its back to the Ruston. Having obtained some scale drawings the wheelbase is much too long 8' instead of 5' something, but not to be deterred I am pressing on. Have added some body details as the package has arrived from Cambrian. Firstly rivets on the buffer beam, Ruston frames were all welded but mine is riveted as it adds more detail. I am used to using Grandt line rivets but they are a little small for this scale so I am trying Cambrian. Also you do not have to drill for Cambrian. Make sure that the marking out is accurate the rivets are placed on by hand and the lightest drop of Mek added. A steel straight edge is used to ensure they are neatly in a row by pushing gently on the not quite fixed yet rivets.
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Next is added the engine compartment louvres. I followed the maker's advice and just glued the centre of the louvres whilst still held in place by the sprue, cutting this away later.
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Finally the radiator. This is a Simplex radiator from Cambrian and is fixed to the front (the story goes that the internal front radiator leaks and the resourceful company blacksmith add the Simplex one complete with bolts and a filler pipe).
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Next a bit of underframe detail and it should be ready for the paint shop tomorrow. I always spray models with a filler primer first. Halfords do 2, 1 for plastic, 1 for metal. Tiny imperfections disappear but the detail remains crisp.
 
Painting has begun and I will be adding photos shortly. However I have now created a blog where I am detailing the progress and there is photos and a movie of 5043's visit on Saturday 25 May.
 
Excellent blog. The weathering & griming up method described is probably the best that I have ever seen. I really like the salt idea. Much better than my efforts with real rust & wire wool staining, which is much more time consuming.

I am just starting to build the little Ruston DS48 as a first build for 32mm gauge use, using drive train bits from Busted Bricks before his "trains" business changes hands. Probably using the same little "Ruston" book and drawing. Following this thread and blog with interest.
 
Hi Roy,
Glad you are enjoying it. Although the wheelbase on mine is a little too long it looks the part. I can't claim that any of the methods I use are mine but after 55 years old modelling I have collected some useful ways of doing things which give speedy and excellent results.
Ken
 
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