RhB Tm 2/2

[luigi.gitto]

A few days ago I found On Thingiverse the files of a Tm 2/2 that can be printed .

I did some tests with my resin 3D printer and I liked it so I decided to do it even if the LGB model already exists.

Obviously, 3D printing only makes up 30% of the project, so it took me a couple of days to complete the locomotive.

Some details are still missing and above all I have to have the decals printed, but in the meantime I'll show you.

 

[David K]

Ciao Luigi,

Great job with the Tm 2/2. Here is one source for useful decals to finish the job: Dieselloks CH

All the best,

David

 

[Gerard]

Hello Luigi,

Nice loc you printed!
How did you made the windows?
I guess they are made from plane througvisible plastic cut in the shape of the window opening in the loc walls and fixed in the wall by using to separate printed window frames? One at the back side to put the glass window in and one at the front side of the window to cover the edge of the glass window?

 

[luigi.gitto]

Ciao Luigi,

Ottimo lavoro con il Tm 2/2. Ecco una fonte di decalcomanie utili per completare il lavoro: Dieselloks CH

Ti auguro il meglio,

David

Thank you David, but unfortunatelly Troeger doesn't have decals fo this kind of Tm 2/2 (number 21-26)

 

[luigi.gitto]

Hello Luigi,

Nice loc you printed!
How did you made the windows?
I guess they are made from plane througvisible plastic cut in the shape of the window opening in the loc walls and fixed in the wall by using to separate printed window frames? One at the back side to put the glass window in and one at the front side of the window to cover the edge of the glass window?

The solution is much more simple, because the model is unpretentious.
Pieces of plexiglas cutted a bit larger than the windows and glued on the border.

 

[luigi.gitto]

Now I already printed a BVZ Tm 2/2 with a long roof, I have to paint and assembly it.

 

[Gerard]

Do you print the whole wall in one go? Can you show a picture while you are doing that?
I like the idea to glue the window against the inside, but the edges of the space in the wall for the window must be made a bit more thicker than the wall
so it looks like a window frame. It looks like you did that only at the outside of the wall, correct?

 

[luigi.gitto]

Hi Gerard,
sorry for delay, but I was on journey.
I send you 3 pictures, I don't know if they are enough

 

[Gerard]

Hi Luigi,

Great pictures! Its clear to me now. Can you show a picture of your printing device? What are the max measures you can print?
And what type of printing plastic did you use?
I noticed that you printed the roof under 45 degrees , is that correct?
Did you print some help structures under the printed roof for support?

 

[luigi.gitto]

Hallo Gerard,
Enclosed a picture of the Phrozen Migthy 4K. Printing volume 200 x 125 x 220
I use resin ABS like or Flex type, but also normal resin, that is just a little fragile.
In the resin 3D printing is very important the orientation, you have to choose it to maximize the printing contact area, normally an angle of around 45 degrees of both axis is enough, but it depends on the object shape.
As slicer I use Chitobox, the program suggest you help structures that you could stil edit.

 

[Gerard]

Luigi thanks for sharing your experience.
I am starting this 3D hobby and bought myself a Vertex nano 3D printer, see photo.
This one has a small building volume of 80x80x75 mm and uses philament with 1.75 mm diam. instead of rasin.
The very low price of €90 made me buying it not knowing anything about 3D printing.
Being a self build package i first have to build it without keeping one screw at the end !
My first project will be to print window frames for my LGB ICE train..
Somebody on a train fair showed me a simple T-shaped frame with the T top thin and curved mounted at the outside of the wall.
This is mounted from the outside into the window cut and enables to mount the window itself from the inside.
The result is, i hope, at the outside an as smooth as possible window frame as is on the real train.
Gerard

 

[luigi.gitto]

Gerard, probably you already know it, but have a look to Thingiverse, over there you could find interesting objects for LGB.

 

[Gerard]

Luigi, thanks for the Thingiverse tip. My 3D printer is assembled now. Helas the first trials are not a success yet.
The print head stays at one corner of the build area and generates a large mountain of plastic!!
I checked all the wiring which should be OK now, but still no better result, so my next option is to check the print file.
May be i'm using the wrong version of Repetier software??
Thingiverse uses version 2.22 i think, while Versatec says it uses version 1.62.
Anyway, never a dull moment!

 

[Gerard]

Hi Luigi,
Three days later and i still have no complete print.
Parts of the object prints now well but there are shifts in the horizontal X direction of a few mm at random heights.
So after 2 hours printing when i am nearby the end there is a sudden X movement of the printerhead causing the rest of the model to be printed at a shifted location!!
This is not what i had in mind with 3D printing so i am looking now for an other but larger 3D printer.
My friend has a Creality printer model CR6 SE. that also uses 1.75 mm filament for about €350 and is very happy with it.
What is the price of your Sonic Mighty 4K?

 

[luigi.gitto]

It depends on the country where you buy it.
Buying directly from Phozen is very convenient but there are duties and shipping costs, better look for an authorized seller in your country.
In Italy I bought it for around 600 €, but I am completely satisfied with it.

 

[Gerard]

Thanks!

 

[3 minutes of fame]

Unless you need to print very large parts, a Creality Ender 3 will probably suit your needs at about half the cost of a CR6. A few upgrades like auto bed levelling and an all metal extruder and you will have an excellent, reliable printer.

Resin printing is not as straightforward as filament and is better suited to smaller parts where surface finish is important. Warping can be an issue unless plenty of supports are used and the object oriented correctly. You also need to wash parts in isopropyl alcohol and then water prior to a secondary curing in a UV "oven" or just in sunlight.

I've found it's about having the right tool for the right job. I now have resin, filament and laser, so most parts are possible to create one way or another!!

 

[Gerard]

In the meantime i returned the nano printer and ordered the CR6 SE printer. I made this choice because my friend has the same printer and gets good results. So i can also use his experience. I keep you posted about my results.
Gerard

 

[luigi.gitto]

It's a matter of preference, I find myself much better with the resin printer than with the filament ones, because I find that the surface finish is unsurpassed.
Of course you have to orient the piece to be printed correctly, but even with the filament printer you have to enter the right printing parameters otherwise it won't work.
With my Phrozen I mold quite large pieces to make my G scale models and you can also use resins that can be washed in water, without the need for isopropyl alcohol.
Of course the result also depends on the printer, my first was an Anycubic Photon S, which did its duty only with small pieces.
But I repeat it is also a matter of preferences, the important thing is that everyone is satisfied with their choices and the quality of their prints.