Restore or replace old RSC (Australia) Battery/RC install

[maxi-model]

I bought this Accucraft Goose #7 from a very reliable trader just over a year ago. Seems to date from 1999 (possibly not the RC or battery) given supplied invoices and documentation. Stated working when bought and I can contact original owner if needed. So, just got round to sussing it all out to give it a run. First thing battery would not take a charge. Have I left it too long ? Open it up, first thing its got a blown 4 amp long body glass fuse. It's a bit of a snakes nest too, lots of redundant Accy' wires and weird use of old Futuba connectors. Too much soldered and taped over wiring for my liking too. Didn't help that a number of wires detached at the motor end leaving polarity and connections indeterminate. I think a sort out needed.

Good news I have the original RCS manual, and the remote is making all the right sounds. I will have to have a good read and try to trace all the wiring. I think I can identify the two main boards in the pictures. There are the usual Accucraft voltage regulator boards too, in the trailer and next to the motor for the lighting. My first thoughts are to get a new, and std', charging socket installed. And a DPDT. Then bin the Futubas and make best use of a stock I have of Fosworks JST's and other connector types. If the battery pack is dead, and does not take a charge "off line" with a new fuse, I do have trick to try and "jump start" it - 12v at 1amp for 30 sec's (as advised years ago by Brian Jones, I have done it before and it works).

The only fly in the ointment, provided all can be revived and works, is my desire to add sound. I do not have the separate plug in trigger board for this old RCS type RX. That socket is empty on the board. Funny thing is when Tony Walsham (Mr oz RCS, now sadly departed) supplied some installations, for projects 5 odd years ago, these had the same separate R/C triggers. Do these trigger boards still exist and where could I get one ?

Then, do I bite the bullet - junk existing the RC and pop in Fosworks set up, like the one that is destined for my Goose 1 ? I don't like binning serviceable kit, even if it is possibly 25 years old and may have limited life expectancy. OK, don't all shout at once - REPLACE ! Max

Edit - Just noticed this is a Ni-Cad battery pack. I only use NiMH, and associated chargers.

 

[Rhinochugger]

MyLocoSound do a diesel railcar sound card especially for this vehicle - it's pretty good with start-up sounds, crash gear changes and brake scroop

You can wire the MLS card into any normal set up, irrespective of the Rx/ESC manufacture - I have a few odds and end set-ups with MLS cards. (Standardisation doesn't exist on the WWNR )

The Ni-Cads look pretty light to me, although thy have obviously done the trick. I installed 19.2v of LSD AA (rated at 2300 MAh) in my #7 because there's acres of space in the box on the back, and that works fine with all of the headlights and marker lamps. (Ooh, just noted that the RCS stuff is limited to 18 volts )

 

[PhilP]

NiCad's - Don't waste your time!

RCS 27mHz RC - IF it still works (I fear the RF sections will have drifted off frequency) I would dump it, but it would raise a smile and an eyebrow if it still does work.

A new 14.4V NiMH would be my choice.

PhilP.

 

[maxi-model]

MyLocoSound do a diesel railcar sound card especially for this vehicle - it's pretty good with start-up sounds, crash gear changes and brake scroop

You can wire the MLS card into any normal set up, irrespective of the Rx/ESC manufacture - I have a few odds and end set-ups with MLS cards. (Standardisation doesn't exist on the WWNR )

The Ni-Cads look pretty light to me, although thy have obviously done the trick. I installed 19.2v of LSD AA (rated at 2300 MAh) in my #7 because there's acres of space in the box on the back, and that works fine with all of the headlights and marker lamps. (Ooh, just noted that the RCS stuff is limited to 18 volts )

Yes, I have that card, bought for Goose 1 project, in stock. But thanks for the tip.The Ni-Cad pack is still holding a charge of 9v, with no signs of leaks or wrapper discolouration from any of the cells. However it says charge at 180 mA when my 14v smart charger(s) is rated at 500 mA. Googled - recharge Ni-Cad battery with smart charger for NiMH and the results are a bit non-committal. Perhaps I should have a word with Strikalight. Max

 

[maxi-model]

NiCad's - Don't waste your time!

RCS 27mHz RC - IF it still works (I fear the RF sections will have drifted off frequency) I would dump it, but it would raise a smile and an eyebrow if it still does work.

A new 14.4V NiMH would be my choice.

PhilP.

I have traced most of the wires. For some reason there are 2 each (cut clean) spare on the +/- motor terminals. And someone has cleanly desoldered both of the +/- wires on the front voltage regulator boards that the front light circuit from the RC board should, I think, be connected to. The RCS Tx has on/off control for this, with polarity/direction determining whether front or rear on/off. Sort this and I can go and rig it up on my rolling road and test. If I power it up and it acceps the commands from the RCS Tx we know they are still talking. The vendor said thay did a year ago. My similar age Train Engineer still does, but I know their Tx scans (or is it Rx device ?) as a way around.

That then leaves how much I want sound in this. As of yet no news on a compatible sound trigger unit to allow activation of sounds outside of the variable volts engine sounds alone. Yes, the MLS sounds can be triggered by a standard remote control with their exposed sensor (IR ?) I have that already on a couple of locos.

However, I take your point. I do not really want to mess around with an iffy recharging set ups and old tech power source. Buying a charger for this one job, to do it with safety & reliably does not stack up. However as a belt and braces short term, if only to test, could be OK. But I think I will have to bite the bullet and replace with a new battery pack - 12 cell (or more as suggested by Rihno) NiMH, but AA instead of sub C, as with present Ni-Cad pack (still holding a 9v charge, uncharged). NiMH will hold more charge than Ni-Cad and be quicker to recharge with my existing smart charging kit. RC installation, for long term reliability sake and functionality, will have to be done fairly short order. I am familiar with Fosworks but not bound to them inextricably (bound, geddit ). I have kit in stock for one Goose, but 3 to do including this one.

Decisions, decisions ! Phil I have been looking for excuse to buy from you for a long while Max

 

[PhilP]

Max, you can use your Axtronics(?) charger, DON'T leave it unattended!
Check cells and charger regularly. - Both will get warm, but if you can't keep a firm grip on either, STOP!

(Teaching to suck-eggs, but others will read this).

Other than that, if you want to have a natter about this, you know where I am.

PhilP.

 

[Moonraker]

If the RCS receiver is controlling speed okay and you just need a way of sounding the horn then, as you say, you can use the TV remote. However, as an indoor IR device, it will work outside only at very short distances. A better option is to purchase a wireless switch off eBay, AliExpress, etc. These push button switches are very cheap and work at long ranges. Email me at sales@mylocosound.com if you need help.
Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound

 

[dunnyrail]

Whatever occurs with attempting to sort out NiCad batteries, eventually the memory effect will make them near useless if they are not already. Clearly at some stage replacements to NiMh would be needed, if I were you I would go for that now and bin the NiCad, or possibly use them to power building Led lights?

 

[maxi-model]

I think I shall bite the bullet ! I have one complete RC/sound install in stock for my Goose #1 conversion project. It has been sitting around for 5 years ! (How could I be so indolent and profligate ). However, I have a rail powered Goose #2 as well as the #7. They are both pretty much the same in setup terms, so why not get them to match up on RC/battery/sound. And do them all at the same time. Can always keep the old RCS kit, if it still works, for a "backburner" project and reuse the Ni-Cad pack as Jon suggested (or a GRS windmill and a POLA waterwheel that could be powered.)

Will it annoy other 16 mm NGM members when they find I have let a gaggle of squawking geese loose on their lines when I visit ? Max