Replacements for LGB couplings

ge_rik

ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
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I have tried searching for answers to this but not yet found anything specific, but apologies if this has been addressed previously.

Having just finished my HGLW loco kit, one of the first things I did was add LGB couplings - which is what I use on my railway. They are cheap and reliable - but they are non prototypical and to my mind look out of place, especially on a small loco. I'd love to replace them with something more realistic but, as shunting is one of my top priorities, I need something which is easy to couple and uncouple - and is reliable and cheap (I have around 75 items of stock).

I've investigated various alternatives - mostly centre buffer styles. I have also considered modifying LGB couplings so the hook and bar are less prominent and then rely on centre buffers when pushing stock - however, I still have a few R1 points and find that centre buffers would lock when negotiating them.

Does anyone have any suggestions for modifications or alternatives which won't break the bank?

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
I have tried searching for answers to this but not yet found anything specific, but apologies if this has been addressed previously.

Having just finished my HGLW loco kit, one of the first things I did was add LGB couplings - which is what I use on my railway. They are cheap and reliable - but they are non prototypical and to my mind look out of place, especially on a small loco. I'd love to replace them with something more realistic but, as shunting is one of my top priorities, I need something which is easy to couple and uncouple - and is reliable and cheap (I have around 75 items of stock).

I've investigated various alternatives - mostly centre buffer styles. I have also considered modifying LGB couplings so the hook and bar are less prominent and then rely on centre buffers when pushing stock - however, I still have a few R1 points and find that centre buffers would lock when negotiating them.

Does anyone have any suggestions for modifications or alternatives which won't break the bank?

Rik
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You can't get much more realistic than Kadee G scale and work great if kept from rusting of the "air hose", Bill
 
Zerogee said:
You could look at the S-Kuplix, Rik? A direct replacement for LGB couplers, using the same hook-and-loop principle but significantly smaller and thus less visually obtrusive?

Packs of 10 for around 12-13 Euro, so just over a quid each......
https://www.grootspoor.com/mds-muller-2100x

Jon.
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Jon
That looks like a good alternative, Jon. It would also mean I could replace them in batches as funds permit. Thanks.

Rik
 
Bill Barnwell said:
You can't get much more realistic than Kadee G scale and work great if kept from rusting of the "air hose", Bill
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Nice idea, Bill - but at £8-10 a pair (ie £675-ish to replace them on all my stock), they're outside my budget for now.

Rik
 
Bill Barnwell said:
You can't get much more realistic than Kadee G scale and work great if kept from rusting of the "air hose", Bill
Click to expand...

The problem with Kadee....
Is there are so many options.. Short, long, (many) differing heights.. A bit of a mine-field! :eek:
 
I think that you may also find issues with Kd's on some of your curves and R1 Points. The S-couplix are a good suggestion that I have been considering, I will only replace them on Locomotives leaving the rolling stock as ever with a Coupling Hook each and and none on the Locomotives. Dropping down the Loco Coupling each end by 20 or 30 thou piece of plasticard in the Coupling Mount will give better reliability and hardly any unwanted de- coupling incidents. And yes Inhave also said this in the past Rik!
 
Regarding the Kuplix couplings?

I see these close couple on the example shown on the Grootspoor site.

I assume that these might not be suitable for R1 curves and points....
 
Gizzy said:
Regarding the Kuplix couplings?

I see these close couple on the example shown on the Grootspoor site.

I assume that these might not be suitable for R1 curves and points....
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I think you have the option to mount them for close coupling or not. It depends on how one interprets the Google Translate version of the blurb ....

"If you shorten who coupling handle is created in "close coupling effect". The cut can be determined individually for each model"

Rik
 
I've been doing some experiments and made some progress on developing my own couplings. I decided that the easiest approach was to produce something which would be a direct replacement for LGB couplings - so same dimensions and same single screw fixing. At the moment, they are very much prototypes - I've ordered some brass rod/wire and more brass plate - oh and some chemical blackening solution.

At the moment, just a couple of paper-clips soldered to a bit of bent-up brass. I'll improve the fixing pedestal as well.
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The hooks engage in the same way as the original LGB versions.
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When pushing, the Binnie Carmarthen couplings bear against each other. I've checked them over the sharpest curves and there's no buffer lock.
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The beauty of this coupling is that it is compatible with LGB coupings and so I can replace them over a period of time and run original and new couplings together.
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I'll post more info once I've made up some 'proper' versions.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
When pushing, the Binnie Carmarthen couplings bear against each other. I've checked them over the sharpest curves and there's no buffer lock.
Rik
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Nicely developed Rik, have you tried them over a reverce curve ie 2 x R 1 points forming a crossover, this is generally the pinch point with buffer locking? Coaches as well? Propelling over a simple R1 curve (one way) should not cause any problems with a centre buffer. Also for your interim period the pic you show has a vehicle without a centre buffer, this may cause you problems as well when propelling.

I went through all these trials and tribulations with my 0 Gauge exhibition layout using 2'6" curves and needing to propel Bogie Coaches across a crossover during the schedule. Over sized buffer heads solved the problems in all cases!
 
dunnyrail said:
Nicely developed Rik, have you tried them over a reverce curve ie 2 x R 1 points forming a crossover, this is generally the pinch point with buffer locking? Coaches as well? Propelling over a simple R1 curve (one way) should not cause any problems with a centre buffer. Also for your interim period the pic you show has a vehicle without a centre buffer, this may cause you problems as well when propelling.

I went through all these trials and tribulations with my 0 Gauge exhibition layout using 2'6" curves and needing to propel Bogie Coaches across a crossover during the schedule. Over sized buffer heads solved the problems in all cases!
Click to expand...
Hi Jon
I don't have any R1 reverse curves on my railway, but I do have a couple of R2 reverse curves. At the moment, I've only tried the couplings on stock fitted with Binnie Carmarthen buffers (yes, eventually all stock will have buffers), but I'm wondering if I can get away without replacing the buffers on LGB stock. Their buffers are much smaller and so will be more prone to locking when propelling. I might have to widen them with plasticard.

I'm still experimenting with dimensions and have reduced the overall size of the couplings by 5mm all round. This seems to be better as there's now no overlap of hooks when propelling and they are even less obtrusive.

Still a bit more tweaking to do and I'm just going out into the garden to try them on a long train to see how they take the strain.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
Hi Jon
Still a bit more tweaking to do and I'm just going out into the garden to try them on a long train to see how they take the strain.

Rik
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The haulage test went well - I had three wagons with new couplings at the head of a train of fifteen wagons and also propelled them back into the storage siding. However, the paper clip loops are a bit flimsy and are easily bent out of alignment and so have ordered some thicker gauge brass wire/rod and also some phosphor bronze for the hooks.

Rik
 
More progress. All the bits and bobs I ordered over the weekend have arrived and so I've had a chance to try out the new materials. 1.5mm brass rod for the loops and 0.7mm phosphor bronze for the hooks.
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I've done some testing and this arrangement seems to overcome some of the problems I was having previously with the loops becoming misaligned and the hooks not springing back after a few uncouplings. These are the prototypes and so look a bit rough and ready. As soon as the Binnie buffers arrive (paid for this morning), I'll be able to go into proper production.
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I've had a go at chemical blackening. Seems a bit hit and miss at the moment. Might need to practise a bit more before I get the process perfected.
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Getting closer!

Rik
 
Interesting Rik..

You might want to try cleaning-up the wire / rods with steel-wool before using the blackening agent? - I think much 'stock' material will come with some sort of surface coating. Either from the manufacturing process, or as a protective finish??
 
Very interesting progress so far, Rik! They do look good, and quite unobtrusive......
I assume the phosphor-bronze wire retains its "springiness", unlike the brass?
How much pressure on the hook is needed to uncouple, more than a standard LGB sprung plastic one?
Can you still do the "push down and twist" uncoupling motion with a thin blade between the hooks?

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
Very interesting progress so far, Rik! They do look good, and quite unobtrusive......
I assume the phosphor-bronze wire retains its "springiness", unlike the brass?
How much pressure on the hook is needed to uncouple, more than a standard LGB sprung plastic one?
Can you still do the "push down and twist" uncoupling motion with a thin blade between the hooks?
Jon.
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Hi Jon
The pressure is about the same as for an LGB coupler which is less than that needed for an HLW wagon coupling - yes phosphor bronze is much springier than brass or steel - and easier to solder than steel.

Still the same uncoupling procedure as previously, which is one of the main attractions - together with the compatibility with LGB couplings which means I can combine stock with old and new couplings - provided I enlarge or replace the smaller LGB buffers.

PhilP said:
Interesting Rik..
You might want to try cleaning-up the wire / rods with steel-wool before using the blackening agent? - I think much 'stock' material will come with some sort of surface coating. Either from the manufacturing process, or as a protective finish??
Click to expand...
Thanks Phil. I did wonder if they needed a bit of a polish before applying the gunk. I'll give it a try.

Rik
 
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