Removing paint..

[PhilP]

All,
Have just bought my first 'real' LGB loco. - A s/h 22522 green centre-cab OBB diesel.
Unfortunately, the previous owner attempted to paint a stripe on it, and looks like it was masked with ordinary 'crinkly' masking tape. I have no idea what type of paint it is, and want to initially remove this 'line' before attempting (or getting someone else) to paint a 'proper' line with the curved ends fore and aft.

The line has been partially removed on one side, but it may have been with something abrasive, as there is a little scuffing to the underlying plastics. There is also still paint in the 'crease' where there is a raised section of bodywork.
The paint appears to have a similar 'semi-gloss' finish as the plastics body of the loco. It is a 'beige/perhaps flesh?' colour paint.

I will try to get a couple of decent photos to show what I am up against.
Any thoughts on what products to try (gently I presume) to remove this paint?

 

[sparky230]

I use a product called "Model Strip" on badly Painted Stainz cabs I get from Ebay

 

[tramcar trev]

I have tried a lot of so called paint removers on a few LGB 0-4-0 Porters and finally came down to removing decals that had been "pad painted" using a fibreglass tipped brush pens GENTLY and then respraying the entire loco.

Yes gentle use of a fibre tipped pen does the job on decals and screened or printed graphics... I also found by mistake that Isopropyl alcohol works on some paints with little effect on plastics, softens it allowing removal with a toothbrush or similar...

 

[PhilP]

Thanks all..
It looks like 'whoever' attempted to remove some of it. - Possibly with a fibreglass pen, as there is some scuffing to the area that has been 'cleaned'.

Initially, I am more after suggested products to try, and more importantly products NOT to use at all! - Cellulose thinners, and Nitromors come into this category I presume? - I would be very wary of brake-fluid as well.

It is whether domestic White Spirit or Turps. Sub. would attack the LGB plastics. - I know I have a devil of a job sticking the stuff!


I will get some isopropyl alcohol, I have some Goo Gone, and will try those for a start..
Any thoughts on 'buffing' the scratches out of the underlying plastics? - Or would I end up with 'shiny' bits??

 

[maxi-model]

Rub scuffed area with 1200 grade wet and dry, use wet, swirling motions till flatted out. Finish off with T-Cut. Gloss finish can be toned down with an overall laquer finish of the right type. Phoenix Precision Paints do a fluid equivalent to Modelstrip. Active ingredient in Modelstrip appears to be Sodium Hydroxide but don't quote me on that.

Max

 

[dunnyrail]

Rub scuffed area with 1200 grade wet and dry, use wet, swirling motions till flatted out. Finish off with T-Cut. Gloss finish can be toned down with an overall laquer finish of the right type. Phoenix Precision Paints do a fluid equivalent to Modelstrip. Active ingredient in Modelstrip appears to be Sodium Hydroxide but don't quote me on that.

Max

As Max says I would be tempted to go along the lines of safety as a start and use a Modelstrip type of Product. I have had great results with Modelstrip. But do follow the instructions, overnight in a sealed plastic bag worked very well for me.
JonD