Removing check rails from Peco points?

[Northsider]

I was tackling a bit of PW tidying up today, and noticed that my scratch built stock (which uses IP wheelsets) tended to skip or 'kick' just before the frog when running across trailing points. On closer inspection, it seems that the wheel flanges were hitting the angled part of the check rails, and riding up them. Now, the Peco check rails can be removed simply by unclipping them, so I did this and the stock then passed smoothly across when pushed by hand. It was threatening rain, and I only have a live steamer, so I haven't tested it with a working train. I'm sure others will have tried this mod: are there any pitfalls to watch out for?

 

[bobg]

'Tis my opinion that the problem is not the Peco check-rails, but the back-to-back measurement on your IP wheel-sets. Check-rails are necessary to make sure the wheels follow the correct road through the crossing (frog). It doesn't cause any problem when running 'trailing', but can occur when running 'facing'.

 

[ntpntpntp]

Yep, have to agree with Bobg on this one. Fix the back-to-back or change the wheelsets, rather than removing the check rails.

 

[Northsider]

The back-to back is correct according to the IP gauge that came with an IOM G van kit, but I imagine I can broaden this to suit if necessary. I'd rather not fit new wheels: these are new wheels, replacing plastic ones that were too lightweight!

 

[bobg]

The required back-to-back for the Peco points can be measured from them, quite literally between the two check rails at the crossing nose (allow a little for clearance). I daresay you could also find that other makes have different measurements.

 

[Rhinochugger]

There's some folks who'll be able to give you the correct back to back in millimetres.

I work with the Mk1 eyeball, and a plastic LGB wheelset.

First check that the LGB wheelset will run through the points - just push 'em through with a good shove and watch them roll.

I then eye up the flanges of any adjustable/dodgy wheelset against this LGB pair. Works OK for me, and it's a method I've used on all track gauges from 9 mm upwards

 

[alec dawe]

I did that method with an old OO gauge Triang/Hornby DMU that hated peco pointwork. The trailing bogies were fine, but the motor bogie kicked and derailed all the time. Getting the motor bogie back-to-back the same as the trailing bogies cured all problems. Its one of the bogies that used to be in the 4sub unit as well, with the 'toothed' wheels!

 

[bobg]

There's some folks who'll be able to give you the correct back to back in millimetres.

I work with the Mk1 eyeball, and a plastic LGB wheelset.

First check that the LGB wheelset will run through the points - just push 'em through with a good shove and watch them roll.

I then eye up the flanges of any adjustable/dodgy wheelset against this LGB pair. Works OK for me, and it's a method I've used on all track gauges from 9 mm upwards

Simple enough task to make yourself a gauge to suit. Bit of brass or plastic, whatever is handy.