Re-weathering a Piko forest watch tower

[maxi-model]

I'm presently refurbishing my built Piko forest watch tower. Given it a good clean with Isopropyl alcohol, fixed all those debonded struts and the odd damaged bits, given it a priming and a new colour coat of Halfords Rover Maple (an almost exact match to the original brown). Will give it a finishing coat of Halfords clear matt enamel.

My question is this - how do I replicate the original "weathered" wash finish, to fill in the "woodgrain", of the original ? I have never used, applied or made up a colour wash finish in all my years of modelling. Why ? I like my stuff "fresh out the works" in appearance normally but I realise this will not do in this instance. Any ideas ?

A Piko forest watch tower -

 

[Paul M]

Try a very, very wet wash of acrylic paint, slightly darker than the overall codour. Splash it on and wipe it off almost straight away. Of course try a practice price first

 

[Riograndad]

OOOH a can of worms on this one Maxi,as you are not a "weatherer" some time spent on a practice would be a good idea in my view,there are may ways to weather models,spray can,airbrush,wet wash,drybrush to name a few,as it`s woodgrain I would go for a drybrush but thats me and other people will have differing views on this one,to practice I would get some old plasticard if you have some and using a modeling knife score the card to represent the grain and then spray it to your finished colour then you can "play" to test your weathering colours and methods and of course any reaction to paint types, try u tube for how to videos,a lot are in the smaller gauges but will help you no end to choose colours and show you how to go on,good luck with your venture,As Paul says above,already different ways,,,Rio

 

[maxi-model]

Thanks Rio, I very much admire the work you post here. However, the model has a moulded in "woodgrain" so it only needs to be "filled", no need to create the grain (done bit of scumbling in my time on 16 mm coaches) so scraping and/or dry brushing would not be the techniques I would think of.

Paul what is a "very wet wash", i.e how many parts thinner to paint ? Why acrylic and not enamel ? I am applying over an automotive finish that neither should react with. When looking at Piko and Pola kits, as supplied new, it appears the components have been dipped in a "wash" that is allowed to flow into any surface texture, e.g. "wood grain" or to just flow over and leave a translucent coating to give the plain moulded part a bit depth or character. Max

 

[Paul M]

I suggested acrylic because you can thin it with water and is a lot easier to clear up if things go wrong! No doubt others will have different ideas. When I say a very wet wash, but you'll need to experiment

 

[railwayman198]

Fortunately I find that moulded woodgrain is the easiest surface to weather; it's large smooth surfaces that are a headache. As Paul says, just wash it down with dilute matt acrylics - greys, browns, a bit of white - then wipe it off to taste. Old wood generally tends towards silver grey.

 

[Riograndad]

Maxi,thanks for the complimentsslightly at cross purposes here,I meant the scrap plasticard to be "grained" not the actual model as a test piece only,if you are new to this as you say it`s easier to dabble and try things out before going on to the real thing,this would allow you to try any of the weathering methods,as Railwayman says woodgrain is easy to do but if you have never tried to weather before practice makes perfect,as I said before good luck with the project......Rio

 

[beavercreek]

For your situation Max, I would use isopropyl with some acrylic or powder paint (pigment) mixed in to give a consistency of thin milky cream and just wash over the whole item using a brush to make the colour pigment sink in to the grain but also not to clump or blob.
It will dry pretty quick so, as it does, you can wipe it with paper towel or a dry brush to take any extra off and to get a good effect.
Once dry spray the whole lot with a good matt varnish like Testors Dulcote or Vallejo Matt.
The varnish will also dull back the amount of colour showing.

 

[maxi-model]

So a very thinned down acrylic should be. Now, what colour ? I'm liking the sound of the "silver grey" option. Local model shop no longer stocks acrylics, enamels only. Aww shucks ! I'll have to see what i have "in stock", I do have a stocks of Testors Dulcote Mike (It's really reserved for my Pagosa combine but I think I have enough). Thanks for the tips, better get to it. Max

 

[maxi-model]

Deed has been done. Far from perfect but it passes muster in my eye. It was originally in its "stock" as supplied finish. Max




Anbody come across this product. Bought about 30 years ago, in the UK. I've never had a use for it till now. Note the price, even then, in $'s.

 

[beavercreek]

Looks good Max... Rustall is a good product but I hope that an 'old' sample still works....should do.

 

[maxi-model]

Rustall is a good product but I hope that an 'old' sample still works.

Used to do the roof, worked a treat. All the bottles full and unopened. Seems they use an IPA base. Love the "dirt" description. Max

 

[Riograndad]

That`ll do nicely Max,good job! ,,,,,,,,wasn`t so hard to do it in the end was it?