Rail end gaps at joins - a problem?

[CoggesRailway]

Hi All,
I am approaching the end of a mammoth track laying session as the basic infrastructure of my permanent layout is nearly in place. In a few areas (a small minority of the joins but I have loads of track) I have some pretty whopping gaps beween the rail ends owing to my general cack handedness - up to 5mm maybe.
Trains run OK, electrical continuity is ok -I will proably bond wires across in the future anyway. I like the clackety clack but is there a long term issue with this? I am prepared to suck it and see, but I plan to hold open days etc and would n't want anyone's pride and joy to get damaged wheels.

 

[ntpntpntp]

5mm sounds a bit excessive! On a curve that could be enough for a flange to catch. Given the current cold weather for track laying I reckon you should aim for 1mm gap, maybe 2mm for long lengths of track. That should allow enough for a bit of heat expansion in the summer.

 

[bobg]

I'd say the risk of damaging wheels is very slight, but the top corners of the rail itself will get a bit of a hammering, and might, in time, start to show signs of flattening. Those joins will close somewhat in warmer weather (if we get any) but do sound just a tny bit large, but not exceptionally. I probably have some similar, if I were to look closely, especially if the rail has shuffled up some, or contracted back both ways.

One could say, cease werritin', go [strike]play[/strike] test trains!

 

[ped]

Hi Ian,I also have some pretty big gaps in my track,i found that they were wearing shoes a bit, i filed the edges down a little bit on the top edge,no more shoe wear but still get nice clackety clack. I have not soldered my joints,been down for 3 years now and no problems.

 

[ped]

Oooops Manners, Afternoon All.

 

[Steve]

loads of gaps here also , only loco that does not like them in the Pico Rail bus due to the strange skates on it .

 

[mike]

a reasionable gap is ok for expansion, say 3mm... but if the gap is so large as to alow a skate to drop, or wheel, it should be closed up,

 

[Rhinochugger]

In a few areas (a small minority of the joins but I have loads of track) I have some pretty whopping gaps............

I like the clackety clack but is there a long term issue with this?

No, No, No & No

On the WWSR I bet I can beat 5 mm for a gap. Nothing's fallen off, got damaged or started to show signs of stress minimum radius is 4 ft (8ft diameter) LGB R1 or R2 might need a bit more care, but most of mine is Aristo

The railway's been down 5 or 6 years now - I've lost count - and I run a variety of wheelsets with different profiles.

5 mm - nothing to worry about

 

[CoggesRailway]

Thanks all. I think on balance then I am going to play trains for a few weeks. Then reassess. Fed up with hacksaws, railjoiners and cold wet hands! Just don't have the heart to start lifting track at the mo.... will photograph testing.

 

[Rhinochugger]

The only loco that derailed regularly in a couple of places was my Shay (Accy live steam).

It didn't like the LGB R3s (of which I have 8) even though the rail joints were perfick.

In a couple of locations I've had to introduce some superelevation - it's done the trick.

(The little strip of broken wood has been wedged under one curve for, oooh, 5 or 6 years now and hasn't moved)

 

[MR SPOCK]

I had these same issues so all I did was cut 1mm or 2mm bits of rail and slid them into the fishplate, hey presto no gaps or very little, and if movement is a problem solder it into the middle of the fishplate, and extra clackety clack is not a worry​

 

[CoggesRailway]

The only loco that derailed regularly in a couple of places was my Shay (Accy live steam).

It didn't like the LGB R3s (of which I have 8) even though the rail joints were perfick.

In a couple of locations I've had to introduce some superelevation - it's done the trick.

(The little strip of broken wood has been wedged under one curve for, oooh, 5 or 6 years now and hasn't moved)

I think we would get on.

 

[Rhinochugger]

The only loco that derailed regularly in a couple of places was my Shay (Accy live steam).

It didn't like the LGB R3s (of which I have 8) even though the rail joints were perfick.

In a couple of locations I've had to introduce some superelevation - it's done the trick.

(The little strip of broken wood has been wedged under one curve for, oooh, 5 or 6 years now and hasn't moved)

I think we would get on.

Ian's a good name

 

[dutchelm]

I had a major problem where a R2 curve was connected to a straight section through an LGB insulated joiner. Almost everything came off as the tendancy was for the wheels to go through the gap rather than go down the straight. Problem solved with an insulated railclamp which held the rails closer & in correct alignment

 

[duncan1_9_8_4]

I had a bigger than average gap a while ago. get two pieces of plasic, one to each side of the rail head, in effect, creating a reservoir, melt solder in to the gap, filling it up. smooth as much as possible with the soldering iron, let it set, take of the plastic strips that formed the dam keeping in the solder. sand down smooth on rail head. works fine for me, il post a pic when its day light.

 

[Gizzy]

I would have said 5 mm multiplied by the scale of 22.5 (in my case for metre gauge) is 112.5 mm, 11 & 1/4 cm or about 4 & 3/4 inches in real life, so for me personally, would be a definite no-no. However, if it works for you okay, then it's your train set!

Here is a bespoke piece of LGB track, possibly the shortest ever, as it is only one sleeper. I had to cut a short length to fit into one of the sidings at Weybourne yard, so I made this unique section especially.

It could be so rare on EvilBuy, that it would make me a mint....

 

[CoggesRailway]

Ha scaling it up like that does make it seem bad!! I can't delay playing, i mean testing, any longer though so I will see how I go.

 

[KeithT]

Ha scaling it up like that does make it seem bad!! I can't delay playing, i mean testing, any longer though so I will see how I go.

Just keep an eye on the skates.
A difference in vertical alignment is more likely to cause a problem than a slightly oversize joint in my experience.
If you should have a derailment fitting double hooks ought to resolve it. It is a lot easier than relaying track.

 

[Gavin Sowry]

:impatient: Worn skates on my engine, and gapped track on the layout I visited, cost me an LGB funnel :thumbdown:

 

[beavercreek]

I had a few gaps where I laid flexitrack on a very hot day and when it cooled it left about 4-6mm gaps in places. Like Pete, I cut small lengths of rail and slid them into the fishplate to fill the gaps, well nearly fill as I wanted to leave a bit of a gap for expansion. Worked a treat and very easy to do.