...and (like most times the discussions comes on that point) i suggest using thiel-tracks.
One of the biggest differences to other stuff is the straight track-part from the frog out, even on the bow-string.
So fitting two thiel-switches to an s-curved connection, it will have automatically a straight track between the curves. That is very important for save operations, in my opinion its more important than just to use a wide radius.
Like the diameter-discussion from a straight line into a curve:
Every time u change your diameter, u get a hard cut in smooth running. Especially when going from a straight line into a curve of ANY shape.
So that cut is as less worst, as you can open that curve with using wide diameters.
If u have , say 9 or 10 feet for making a loop, so its better to use wide trackdiamters while entering the loop and then use a bit tighter diameter on the loops mainlength. So, some 40, then 20, then 10 and in the main part 7 feet diamter instead of using an 8 feet dia through the whole curve.
having a straight trackline between two s-curves (ANY S-curve, not just switches) avoids a kind of hard cut in curvature, that u get while fitting twi curves directly together:
not just that u are running from a straight to a curve, u are running from one curve to the opposite curve. thats VERY hard, even with using R5.
So, all people here are investing MUCH time in building up their garden RR.
Take the time to cut out the switch-curves a bit, or use thiel-switches or some other, that have a straight frog, too.
Its worth every minute and every Cent.
I dont like to see my expensive rolling stock "edging" through ridiculous track-labyrinths. At a time i started not to buy the 12th oer 13th locomotive, but to invest a bit money in wellmade track.
Its worth...
Greetings
Frank
