R1 or R2
- Thread starter olly25
- Start date
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
There is no doubt that Phil's advice is good, IF you have the physical space available. If you don't have room for LGB R3, then consider Piko R3 - despite the confusing terminology, they are not the same..... Piko's R3 is a little bit larger than LGB's R2, but significantly smaller than LGB R3...... I know, it would be SO much easier if the industry would standardise..... 
Avoid R1 if you possibly can - though many people do use it where they are tight for space, and indeed it works OK especially if you have short locos and stock, but sooner or later you will want to buy some bigger rolling stock and you'll come to regret the choice. If you do end up with LGB R2, don't worry about the lack of R2 points in LGB's range - Trainline45 make some that match LGB R2.
Jon.
Avoid R1 if you possibly can - though many people do use it where they are tight for space, and indeed it works OK especially if you have short locos and stock, but sooner or later you will want to buy some bigger rolling stock and you'll come to regret the choice. If you do end up with LGB R2, don't worry about the lack of R2 points in LGB's range - Trainline45 make some that match LGB R2.
Jon.
Last edited:
Hi John, does the piko R3 fit ok with my other LGB track?There is no doubt that Phil's advice is good, IF you have the physical space available. If you don't have room for LGB R3, then consider Piko R3 - despite the confusing terminology, they are not the same..... Piko's R3 is a little bit larger than LGB's R2, but significantly smaller than LGB R3...... I know, it would be SO much easier if the industry would standardise.....
Avoid R1 if you possibly can - though many people do use it where they are tight for space, and indeed it works OK especially if you have short locos and stock, but sooner or later you will want to buy some bigger rolling stock and you'll come to regret the choice. If you do end up with LGB R2, don't worry about the lack of R2 points in LGB's range - Trainline45 make some that match LGB R2.
Jon.
Zerogee
Clencher's Bogleman
What Henri said!
Yes, 100% compatible, the rail profile is identical and it all fits together just fine - and once it's down in the garden, you'll never notice the slight design differences in the plastic sleepers....
I bought a half-circle myself (well, actually eight pieces, so a little over a half circle) of Piko R3 from Top Slots'n'Trains just a few weeks back, they are very good for Piko prices and quick service.
Jon.
Riograndad
Model Railroading, boats and oil painting,
I have just changed my R1 to R3(LGB) on my outside loop and wonder why I did`nt start off with these,simple,started with a starter set and wanted something running and as larger locos joined the stud R1 just did`nt look right and Connie won`t run on anything less,unfortunately no room to change the inner loop so will stay R1 and reserved for small locos.
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
Yes, it will look better and cause less drag on your loco, so it will run better and possibly last longer too. But be careful of the over hang - for 5 ft diameter you need quite a bit more room for clearance. Stick your existing R1's on the dirt and have a good look. If your stuck with R1's to fit, don't worry too much - it'll all work but use bigger curves were ever else you can. Lastly, remember that whilst larger curves may look more expensive - they are a lot longer too, so it all balances out - approximately.
korm kormsen
Registered
i use R1. my experience tells me, that they need the whole five feet of space.
the Radius or diameter measurements you will find, are calculated from middle between rails to middle between rails.
for the overhang of larger locos and cars of two foot length one should add four to five inches each side.
so you reach 4' 10" needed space for R1.
idlemarvel
Neither idle nor a marvel
What Korm says. If you only have 5ft wide garden then you will have to go with R1.
Gizzy
A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
As others have said, go for the largest radius that you can fit in your space.
But R1 and R2 can work okay too, as this double tracked curve behind the 'Frying Hamburger' on my old railway shows.
However, you may need to think about using shorter rolling stock than the train in the photo. It was far too long for R1 curves, so I sold it on. It's a matter of compromise at the end of the day....
But R1 and R2 can work okay too, as this double tracked curve behind the 'Frying Hamburger' on my old railway shows.
However, you may need to think about using shorter rolling stock than the train in the photo. It was far too long for R1 curves, so I sold it on. It's a matter of compromise at the end of the day....
Greg Elmassian
Guest
R3 
SophieB
Registered
My husband and I use R1 track a lot of times for temporary layouts at train shows so we can fit more track into a small space, but I don't think I'd want any on our home layout. After one show that lasted about a week and running only small stock (Stainz, power tender and HLW two-axle cars) there were literally piles of brass dust on the floor when we took up the track. If you look at the inside of the rail on some well used R1 curves you can see where the track has been worn down.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
I've seen pictures of loops in businesses where the train runs pretty continuously during business hours and with R1 have seen pictures where the railhead was worn back to the web of the rail... and of course a lot of brass shavings, and the flanges worn paper thin.
Greg
Greg
ARIA31
Registered
The only issues I have with R1 is with my two Bachmann 4 6 0 Annie when passing switches. I just got an LGB mallet UINTAH 2 6 6 2 and she runs perfectly in R1 switches. For sure if I had more space I would put bigger rail size,but the price is also bigger. So for Olly25 if you have space go to R2 for sure.
Eaglecliff
Registered
And before you throw away your R1’s, remember if you cut the webs next to the inside rail you can ease them into R2, R3, R5, R...or even straight, especially for sidings, less-frequented places, or temporary use. Cheaper than new, and if you think carefully as you are doing it, you can swap originally inside and outside rails here and there so that you don’t have to saw off too much brass to keep the lengths correct before you join them up. Done it...