R/C Caradoc, how do I do it?

[Old Tom]

My next step (after the new track arrives and it's all laid) is to R/C the Caradoc. Can anyone help with links to suppliers and what exactly I might need to do to carry out the conversion? I've googled the question but not hit any good resources.

Cheers

 

[Doug]

If you can wait until after the weekend, i'll re-post the GSM thread on how i did it.

 

[Chris Bird]

I used the seriously cheap 2.4 ghz kit from giantcod.com on all my R/C locos. It is excellent.
Cheers
Chris

 

[400Parker]

Tom, there were two excellent posts on G Scale Mad by Doug (who replied above) and Ron ("Corgi") in Australia on how to fit r/c to a Caradoc (by Doug) and to a Wrekin (by Ron). You can access them in pdf format at http://www.jacksonsminiatures.com/Caradoc_Radio_Control.pdf < Link To Caradoc Radio Control and http://www.jacksonsminiatures.com/Wrekin_Radio_Control.pdf < Link To Wrekin Radio Control
Doug said he'd post his thread at the weekend so 1) apologies for pre-empting him and 2) he may have a smaller version because I took mine off the G Scale Mad forum (with thanks and acknowledgment to Jason).
These two descriptions were written before cheap 2.4GHz r/c equipment became available (as recommended by Chris). However fitting the servos is the same whatever receiver you use. I used Futaba 2.4GHz equipment when I converted my Edrig but my preference is Spektrum after I had problems with my Silver Lady using the Futaba kit. I believe the Giant Cod kit is similar to Futaba but a lot cheaper.
Good luck. Doug's and Ron's instructions are comprehensive so you should have no difficulty.
Steve

 

[bobg]

I used the seriously cheap 2.4 ghz kit from giantcod.com on all my R/C locos. It is excellent.
Cheers
Chris

I bought my Countess "ready fitted" so had no idea what the prices of radio were these day (I last did R/C 35yrs ago). I just looked at the site that Chris mentions and find 'systems' for prices that I couldn't buy single servos for, back then. Cricky! How things have progressed.

Think I better go and test it all again................

 

[Alpineandy]

I used the seriously cheap 2.4 ghz kit from giantcod.com on all my R/C locos. It is excellent.
Cheers
Chris

Also worth considering is Planet 5 2.4 ghz
I have both my Roundhouse Loco's running with this and provides excellent control.

 

[Old Tom]

Thanks for the excellent links Steve. It looks like it's within my capabilities.
And thanks to everyone else as well.
I think, though, that I will wait until I'm sure that my loco won't need any warranty work before I go removing/drilling etc. just in case!

 

[Neil Robinson]

I think, though, that I will wait until I'm sure that my loco won't need any warranty work before I go removing/drilling etc. just in case!

Probably a good idea to run the loco in first. However it's perfectly reasonable to fit R/C so I doubt that would have warranty implications, best to check with your supplier though.

 

[brianthesnail96]

If you go for single channel r/c as fitted from the factory you shouldn't need to do any drilling- certainly Edrig and I imagine Caradoc too has the servo holes pre- drilled in the footplate. Receiver and batteries just hold in place with stick tape- sorted!

Of course if you want to go for two channel r/c as I'm sure you will then you will need to get the drill out. But there's no reason why you couldn't fit the single channel (reverser) system first and then fit the regulator servo at a later date.

As you've already been directed to chuffed 2 bits in another thread it's worth pointing out that they do a replacement regulator "handle" (it's a bit short for a handle really, I'll be leaving a cosmetic one on in front of it when I finally get around to fitting the regulator servo) designed for taking an operating rod from a servo for regulator r/c.

 

[bobg]

Seeing as we're talking R/C, then I have a query. Countess was supplied with 2 channels but the regulator control was set with UP as closed. I find this a little odd (even after all these years, 30+) as with boats and planes I was used to closed being DOWN. Yes, it's easy to change, but is there some reason that up is prefered for closed on locos?

 

[brianthesnail96]

I was planning on using left and right for the regulator

 

[Doug]

I fitted all 3 servos to my Caradoc, with no drilling at all, so no warantee implications.

 

[Old Tom]

Cor! Inundated with terrific advice, thanks again everyone.

I'm so pleased I found this forum

(I've also joined the G Scale Society, so i think I can now be classed as 'fully converted to large scale'

 

[bobg]

I was planning on using left and right for the regulator

Nothing to stop you doing as you wish; absolutely, and why not indeed. Just that in days of yore there was a sort of convention about these things so anybody playing with your toys didn't get hung up at a critical moment and do their wallet a serious injury. I just wondered if there was anything like that with locos.

I've turned my stick round simply by pushing a button on the Tx a couple of times (seriously weird compared to what I was used to). This modern stuff is fantastic.

 

[Old Tom]

Simple, but effective, servo mount:

Two lumps of oak and a bit of bent wire - but it works !

Just got to stow the batteries and receiver somewhere and away I go....

 

[brianthesnail96]

Servo mount looks a lot neater than mine!

 

[tagorton]

Simple, but effective, servo mount:

Two lumps of oak and a bit of bent wire - but it works !

Just got to stow the batteries and receiver somewhere and away I go....

Batteries and receiver can go in the box under the cab floor...

 

[corgi]

I was planning on using left and right for the regulator

I use left horizontal for forward reverse (becomes a dead man's stick) and right vertical notched for throttle/regulator.
On Accy's with two servo's one can get fantastic control using a combination of reverser and throttle/regulator.

 

[corgi]

Simple, but effective, servo mount:

Two lumps of oak and a bit of bent wire - but it works !

Just got to stow the batteries and receiver somewhere and away I go....

It is not difficult to make a couple of spacers for the regulator servo. The plate is drilled for a standard servo.

The batteries and switch go underneath. The frame is cut for the switch. The receiver can be mounted in the left hand tank.