Q....water profing point motors

FrenchChuffed

FrenchChuffed

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I was wondering if any of you had had a go at improving the water risistance of the LGB point motors? i was contemplating trying to do a 3D printed cover as the connector screw holes have a tendancy to collect water and then rust so a cover over the whole of the motor may give extra protection. Anyone tried it?
 
I haven't tried that specifically but I have had some experience trying to water proof 3D prints.

Mostly I would describe them as splash proof but there is some natural porosity in the parts so if left to soak, like rain water standing on top of a point motor, the water may eventually find its way through.

We use FDM and SLS printing to prototype blow moulded coolant tanks at work. I have had to seal them with Bostik Concrete Sealer to get them to hold water. However something as simple as a coat of paint and lacquer might be enough for this scenario?
 
FrenchChuffed said:
I was wondering if any of you had had a go at improving the water risistance of the LGB point motors? i was contemplating trying to do a 3D printed cover as the connector screw holes have a tendancy to collect water and then rust so a cover over the whole of the motor may give extra protection. Anyone tried it?
Click to expand...
The motors themselves are pretty well bomb proof but as you noted the screws can tend to rust, I have in the past given them a coat of grease to help keep them virtually rust free. You biggest enemy with the motors is dirt and miniature animal insect organisations including sometimes ants nests. I doubt a printed cover would prevent that or even rusting of the screws.
 
I blob silicon grease on the screws, and a spray of GT85 a couple of times a year.
 
FrenchChuffed said:
GT85 is that like WD40
Click to expand...
No, not really, the WD 40 most people use is a penetrate, (though they do make a silicone):

Rust Penetrant Spray | WD-40 Rust Release Penetrant | WD-40

Get deep into the crevices, threads and seams to break up rust and corrosion with the WD-40 rust penetrant spray. This 11 oz can is equipped with a flexible straw that holds its shape so you can apply rust penetrant spray in those hard-to-reach places.
www.wd40.com www.wd40.com

GT85 is more a general purpose silicon spray

gt85.co.uk

Homepage - GT85

GT85 spray for professional tradespeople, mechanics, cyclists & DIYers. It lubes, cleans, protects, extends the life of equipment, and makes maintenance easy.
gt85.co.uk gt85.co.uk
 
Don't forget to pop a bit graphite paste or similar on electrical connections to minimize risk of these contacts and their connections becoming tarnished and offering poor electrical conductivity affecting reliability. Make sure there is good drainage under and around the motors too. I echo what Jon has said about little critters - my LGB motors were a favorite nesting/breeding spot for spiders in my garden :D

In the end I gave up the battle on my mostly in shade line - I switched to pneumatic operation for both points an signals. I use the US made, Clippard originated, SVRR system, available from Anything Narrow Gauge in the UK. Max
 
maxi-model said:
Make sure there is good drainage under and around the motors too.
Click to expand...
I choose to drill a couple of drainage holes in the baseplate. I've obtained a few spare motors over the years and whenever a motor plays up it's replaced with a spare and the offending motor stripped, cleaned out and reassembled to join the other spares
 
WD40:
  • WD 40 is originally to keep moisture away to keep from rusting, not a penetrant.
  • WD stands for Water Displacement formula 40... the idea is that it would displace moisture and leave a film, and then this would keep moisture from rusting/corroding metal.

I agree with Neil, the weep holes in the bottom of the motor housing are important, to keep water from building up. Make sure you have a small one in each corner.

There is no way to keep water completely out, they would have to be hermetically sealed, not easily possible with the moving arm that protrudes from the body.

Since air gets inside, the action of cooling at the end of the day, pulls air into the housing... then when the sun hits it, the air expands.... if any water has collected inside (natural condensation) hopefully it goes out the drain holes, and then further warming should push out any humid air. Then the cycle repeats.

Often, when people try to seal up these motors, all they do is wind up trapping liquid inside, making matters worse.

Greg
 
Greg Elmassian said:
WD40:
  • WD 40 is originally to keep moisture away to keep from rusting, not a penetrant.
  • WD stands for Water Displacement formula 40... the idea is that it would displace moisture and leave a film, and then this would keep moisture from rusting/corroding metal.

I agree with Neil, the weep holes in the bottom of the motor housing are important, to keep water from building up. Make sure you have a small one in each corner.

There is no way to keep water completely out, they would have to be hermetically sealed, not easily possible with the moving arm that protrudes from the body.

Since air gets inside, the action of cooling at the end of the day, pulls air into the housing... then when the sun hits it, the air expands.... if any water has collected inside (natural condensation) hopefully it goes out the drain holes, and then further warming should push out any humid air. Then the cycle repeats.

Often, when people try to seal up these motors, all they do is wind up trapping liquid inside, making matters worse.

Greg
Click to expand...
It use to contain acetone, which actually absorbs the water then is rinsed away the water away with it, any residue evaporates. which is why it was good as a penetrant and rust remover, I think the formulae has now changed.
 
I think the acetone is wrong, you could smell it, but there is kerosene and other solvents in it. that post saying Acetone is speculative.

The biggest rumor is that it used to contain fish oil, also false.

You can go to their web site, and dispel some of the rumors.

The WD part of it is explained in this article, where they actually analyzed it with gas chromatography (GC) and mass spectroscopy (MS).

What's Inside WD-40? Superlube's Secret Sauce

Photo: Tim Morris The recipe for this superlube has long been a closely guarded trade secret—until now. Wired sent a can to the lab and got the ingredients. Mineral Oil Seriously. WD-40 is mostly a mix of baby oil, Vaseline, and the goop inside homemade lava lamps. Decane WD-40 contains an...
www.wired.com www.wired.com

If you read this you will understand how it displaces water and penetrates, and lubricates, but really not a great or permanent lubricant.

This stuff was invented right here in San Diego, we know it well.

Greg
 
When my line was up and running I used to simply squidge a blob of silicone sealant over the terminal screw holes and the cable entry point. Easy to remove if necessary and replace again afterward. My motors weren't at ground level, but about 4" above ground on the wooden framework that supported the track.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
I think the acetone is wrong, you could smell it, but there is kerosene and other solvents in it. that post saying Acetone is speculative.

The biggest rumor is that it used to contain fish oil, also false.

You can go to their web site, and dispel some of the rumors.

The WD part of it is explained in this article, where they actually analyzed it with gas chromatography (GC) and mass spectroscopy (MS).

What's Inside WD-40? Superlube's Secret Sauce

Photo: Tim Morris The recipe for this superlube has long been a closely guarded trade secret—until now. Wired sent a can to the lab and got the ingredients. Mineral Oil Seriously. WD-40 is mostly a mix of baby oil, Vaseline, and the goop inside homemade lava lamps. Decane WD-40 contains an...
www.wired.com www.wired.com

If you read this you will understand how it displaces water and penetrates, and lubricates, but really not a great or permanent lubricant.

This stuff was invented right here in San Diego, we know it well.

Greg
Click to expand...
As a chemical laboratory assistant some years ago I can confirm it use to contain acetone - end!!!!
 
Greg Elmassian said:
I think the acetone is wrong, you could smell it, but there is kerosene and other solvents in it. that post saying Acetone is speculative.

The biggest rumor is that it used to contain fish oil, also false.

You can go to their web site, and dispel some of the rumors.

The WD part of it is explained in this article, where they actually analyzed it with gas chromatography (GC) and mass spectroscopy (MS).

What's Inside WD-40? Superlube's Secret Sauce

Photo: Tim Morris The recipe for this superlube has long been a closely guarded trade secret—until now. Wired sent a can to the lab and got the ingredients. Mineral Oil Seriously. WD-40 is mostly a mix of baby oil, Vaseline, and the goop inside homemade lava lamps. Decane WD-40 contains an...
www.wired.com www.wired.com

If you read this you will understand how it displaces water and penetrates, and lubricates, but really not a great or permanent lubricant.

This stuff was invented right here in San Diego, we know it well.

Greg
Click to expand...

At the 1:1 railway we abandoned WD40 in favour of Inox spray it is by far superior to WD40.
www.inoxmx.com

MX3 Lubricant

The only lubricant in the world with the special MX3 anti-corrosion, anti-moisture formula for the twenty – first century. MX3 is an anti-corrosion anti-moisture lubricant designed to be sprayed on surfaces and between moving parts.
www.inoxmx.com www.inoxmx.com

For aiding against water ingress on the terminals try using a silicone grease.
 
FrenchChuffed said:
I was wondering if any of you had had a go at improving the water risistance of the LGB point motors? i was contemplating trying to do a 3D printed cover as the connector screw holes have a tendancy to collect water and then rust so a cover over the whole of the motor may give extra protection. Anyone tried it?
Click to expand...
I made a waterproof cover for mine it's inside the bottom of the Signal box then has rods connected to the points.

sig1.jpg
 
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