I've been installing 18v station lighting at the weekend and used some 4 core alarm cabling to connect back to the transformer. Where the 4 core needs connecting to the lamp post wiring, i have twisted the wires together and used some electrical tape that is then concealed under the ballast. Do you think this will stand the weather? what does everyone else use to connect up their lighting wiring?
Protecting electrical wiring
- Thread starter Kevin
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Alec K
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Like MRail, I always solder and use heat-shrink wherever I am able to, but in any event connections beneath the trackbed are made via 'choc-block' connectors screwed to the decking. Wires to the connectors are always tinned first.
Alec K
Alec K
Kevin said:
I always use a 3 amp connector block, covered by either self-amalgamating tape or silicone sealant. Where space allows, I prefer to have any delicate connections inside a container of some sort. 35mm film canisters were perfect, but are now just about extinct!
the tape wont last, you iether need to use as peter says the small conecture blocks, or soilder the wires,cover with heat shrink..
A really dumb question please; (I've never used heat shrink before). Is the material actually cut or do I need to thread it on the wires? I am thinking that as I have everything wired, it should be quite easy to put the material around the existing joints. I see that Maplin do a heat shrink kit of all different sizes, is this the best way to buy it?
it is a tube, in differnt sizes, its normally sold in either meter lenghts, or on a roll, from maplins ect, you cut a sutable lenght oft, thread it over your joint/wires, and aplly heat,to it, it then shrinks ..i use a cigaret lighter..
no shuch thing as a silly questio9n, only asnwers..
no shuch thing as a silly questio9n, only asnwers..
I have found that wires twisted together with a bit of electric tape wrapped around will last about two years before the connection starts to become intermittent. By then of course you will have forgotten that the joint wasn't made properly and wonder what is causing the problem. If you are like me you will have forgotten exactly whwre the joint is hidden.
So twisting wires together is an ok temporary measure but it will give you grief at soem time in the future.
So twisting wires together is an ok temporary measure but it will give you grief at soem time in the future.
yes, and or too smalll,its a case of trying it and seeing, i get 3 differnt sizes.. for single wires, for mulotipull wires, and for when i get ti wrong!!!
Wire joints soldered on the H&MGR then painted with a liquid insulation paint sold by our local electronic shop. The first joints I did have been buried now for coming on 4 years with no problems. The paint is a real thick rubberised sort of stuff and don't half stink when wet, but it seems to work well.
Slder and heat shrink tube is best but they also make wire twist nuts with a water proofing agent already inside. these would seem to be ideal as they use them over here for outdoor mains lighting connections..................... http://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/elwinutcosmb.html
minimans said:Slder and heat shrink tube is best but they also make wire twist nuts with a water proofing agent already inside. these would seem to be ideal as they use them over here for outdoor mains lighting connections..................... http://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/elwinutcosmb.html
Great Paul
Now those look the biz. I have used ordinary dry ones with sealant but these are just the ticket as a lot of the connections are behind, under or around bushes etc so a quick solution with sealant already inside the nut is wonderful.
In fact I want to extend my garden spot ssytem and these are what I need as they come in three sizes. Now to see if they are available over here......
Might I suggest that the waterproofing contained is probably silicon grease/jelly, it does a grand job of keeping water at a distance. Also obtainable from electonic suppliers in tubes.
whatlep said:Kevin said:
I always use a 3 amp connector block, covered by either self-amalgamating tape or silicone sealant. Where space allows, I prefer to have any delicate connections inside a container of some sort. 35mm film canisters were perfect, but are now just about extinct!
We used to use film canisters, but when we ran out we started using used party poppers
push the soldered cable in the thin end then pour sealent in the other, even have some in very wet locations, but these were toped out with either the proper electrical pot sealent
or melted Wax.
Cheap and easy to get hold of and you can use them even after you have fixed the joint
Rob s said:
Brilliant! A real bloke's solution: something which is practical for bodging, but also makes a loud noise and lots of mess. This year's top suggestion so far....
Put my tuppeny haporth in here for most of my joining two wires just to extend the wire I use heatshrink, I shrink it with the shaft of the soldering iron. But just discovered yesterday another problem, bare bit of wire, it's them meeces back, I hate meeces to peeces
If I do need to join wires (I prefer to run a length without joins as this will always be the first point of failure), then I use these which I get from work.
You insert the wires in the holes as far as they will go (no need to bare the wires) then press down on the red button. I use a pair of pliers for this.
Inside is a metal link which cuts through the insulation making contact with the conductor, as well as a waterproof gel which seales the holes where the wires are inserted.
Used them on extending a cable to a point motor, with no problems....
You insert the wires in the holes as far as they will go (no need to bare the wires) then press down on the red button. I use a pair of pliers for this.
Inside is a metal link which cuts through the insulation making contact with the conductor, as well as a waterproof gel which seales the holes where the wires are inserted.
Used them on extending a cable to a point motor, with no problems....