Powering LGB lights

A

Andrew_au

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Current setup:
  • Control station is a Roco z21 XL, which delivers 20V DCC power. Also have a z21 XL booster which is not currently wired in but will be eventually
  • 3 LGB locos with after-market DCC decoders
  • around 100m of track. Several turnouts - DCC control for the turnouts is mainly via the track. No seperate accessory bus, just tap off the main bus or track to run to stationary decoders where appropriate.
I have some accessory lights installed in LGB accessories that I am wondering how to power:
  • LGB decoupler lanterns
  • LGB buffer stop lanterns
To my knowledge these are 18V lanterns. I see a couple of options:
  • Connect directly to track. I'm concerned about the side effects of this, both on current draw via the track and possibility of burning out the bulbs.
  • Run a separate 18V lighting circuit. AC or DC?
I'm thinking the best way to do it is the separate circuit. Any tips on the best way to set it up?

I have an old LGB 50110 18V AC transformer. The LGB control station died but the transformer still works. Do I just put that somewhere convenient and run the lighting circuit directly from it?

Thanks
 
Andrew_au said:
I have an old LGB 50110 18V AC transformer. The LGB control station died but the transformer still works. Do I just put that somewhere convenient and run the lighting circuit directly from it?

Thanks
Click to expand...
That will work just fine.
 
The spare transformer would be the better solution IMO....
 
IMHO, it would be easier to wired them to the track. Not sure how many lights you have.

The 18V lights draw around 50 MA (According to PhilP) and so you can have around 20 per Amp. Your power supply delivers 6 amps. The booster will add 3 amps.

Assume about 1 amp per loco.

Also, if you put a volt meter on the track I suspect the actual voltage is a little less the 20V.

Connecting the track will give you full power of the lights whenever you turn your system on.

For the bumpers, I solder them to the track.

You can also use these connectors which can be placed on the insider of the rails and will be hardly noticeable.
https://www.onlytrains.com/model/trains/SJ40054.html
Split Jaw 40054 Track Power Clamps, 2 per Pack
 
I strongly recommend that you not run the lamps at full voltage, but around half .
Why?
Most importantly, the incandescent bulbs get hot. On certain housings, typically black plastic, as in signal housings and buffers, and likely the point lanterns, the housings will deform from heat. Ive had this happen. Sometimes, replacing them is difficult.

Second, the lamp life increases greatly when run at less than 100%.
I run analog, but…..
A simple hack, re buffer track connection, stainless, or other, small alligator clips. They are hidden underneath the buffer.
Reduce voltage, if possible, by running 2 in series. Not always an option.


This side of the pond, i buy cheapy alligators from amazon. I find a medium size, as opposed to the minis easier to handle and easier fit. Plastic ends are nice.


On my buffers, connected to the track, ive replaced bulbs with non-directional, ‘universal leds. Mine are rated up to 24v. They shine very brightly at 2-3v.

Some bulb sockets do not point toward the lens. Not a bloblem with a 360 degree incan bulb. Not so with an led.

Sanding an led lens/bulb will greatly increase its defusion, as they are otherwise highly directional stock. In some applications, using very sharp flat cut snips, such as rail cutters, you can clip the dome off, if the bulb part is too long.

My semaphores and platform and building lights are wired separately, at 12v. I use incans. And leds. 12v= very Dim , including signals. During night, the brightness is much better, very visible, but not nuclear white.

Best
 
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