Power Connectors...

D

Dylanlewis2000

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Just quick question, how many power connectors (the ones from your power unit to track ) do you have connected to your track. In an effort to make the track run smoothly i was thinking of fitting multiple connectors to the track in hope "kill" dead spots :laugh:
 
I think this is going to be one of those threads that goes on and on! ;)


It depends......


Are you on DCC or Analogue?


How long is the run?


Do you use fishplates (rail joiners), rail clamps or are you soldered?


I run DCC, have a (currently) 250' end to end run and use rail clamps. One feed usually works completely fine, but I usually have a connection at each end and maybe one in the middle, to guard against any potential voltage drop. These are, at present, temporary. When all is finished and I have the loop, plus the end terminus, and maybe a return loop - it SHOULD all work with just one connection. However other will tell you that you need a bus wire running all the way round with feeds every few feet and soldered joints!


...now that was no help at all, was it?
 
I have an LGB DCC system. I have replaced and cleaned every piece of track i own and have put brand new LGB fish plates on them to try and ensure everything would be ok. i have not completed my loop yet, so hopefully that will sort it. I will know tomorrow!
 
Ok money saving tip number 101

The only problem with using connecters is they are unsightly and a tad expensive if you want to use a lot
what i have done is bend a length of brass rod or (maybe you can use copper earth wire from the inside of 30amp household electric cable)
and feed it between the rail and the plastic tie that lies against the underside of the rail between the sleepers then go over one sleeper and back though the next tie, Cut off level with the outside of the rail on one end and leave enough on the other end to fit a double plastic connection block, do the same on the other rail but make sure you go under the tie so it doesnt short, feed that into the other terminal of the connection block and you have a power connection that is easily covered by ballast as i have many isolated sections on each of my loops i feed power to both ends using the same system. i also have used it to bridge across any trouble some fishplates
since ive used this system i havent notice any drop in power even when running my Mallet and other locos at the same time.
The only thing you have to try and remember where you fitted them as they cant be seen
Tony
if your confused il post some pics in the morning
 
Tony said:
Ok money saving tip number 101

The only problem with using connecters is they are unsightly and a tad expensive if you want to use a lot
what i have done is bend a length of brass rod or (maybe you can use copper earth wire from the inside of 30amp household electric cable)
and feed it between the rail and the plastic tie that lies against the underside of the rail between the sleepers then go over one sleeper and back though the next tie, Cut off level with the outside of the rail on one end and leave enough on the other end to fit a double plastic connection block, do the same on the other rail but make sure you go under the tie so it doesnt short, feed that into the other terminal of the connection block and you have a power connection that is easily covered by ballast as i have many isolated sections on each of my loops i feed power to both ends using the same system. i also have used it to bridge across any trouble some fishplates
since ive used this system i havent notice any drop in power even when running my Mallet and other locos at the same time.
The only thing you have to try and remember where you fitted them as they cant be seen
Tony
if your confused il post some pics in the morning
Click to expand...




LOL thanks, i was going to ask you to post a picture explaining... hopefully this will help.
 
just in case some of you were wondering what i was going on about here are a couple of pics


This is one of my main power in connections with wires from a controler the red arrows mark the brass wires


010-2.jpg
"


and this is a isolated siding with wires going to a switch

005-5.jpg
"

Tony
 
i have two interconnected continous runs totalling about 200yards of peco track connected by fishplates running on DCC. I have one connection from the massoth box and to date (2years) have not had a connection problem. I assume I am lucky!!
 
Neil Robinson said:
Quick answer one pair only, plus one for each switched section if on analogue.
Click to expand...

Ditto. My trackwork is wired with sections to allow running on analogue, but most of the time it's run with DCC and all sections left switched on. It's basically an oval with a passing loop plus a couple of sidings, so a single power feed does the job fine.

I've recently taken to using Massoth / Split Jaw brass clamps for attaching feeds to the rails, rather than using LGB connectors or drect soldering. Very pleased with the clamps so far.
 
I guess the easy answer would be as many as you need!! but for a simple loop you should require only ONE! Wether digital or analog, as stated it's the resistance in the rail joint's that will cause problem's so you need to address those or you will forever be chasing dead spots! you could try just the LGB paste ( or preferred equivalent ) and nice clean track/joiners but eventually this will fail as well depending on climate and local conditions it could be weeks or years before failure. Most people use some sort of mechanical assist to rail joints either a clamp over the joiner or a replacement bolt on joiner. Or maybe soldered jumper wires or direct soldered joiners. all work, some more expensive than others!
Aristo track and USA have joiners are held together with teeny Allen bolts I find these quite good but they do come loose eventually and there are numerous reports of them falling apart in frosty weather. (not in my back yard though!!!) My chosen method is cheep and cheerful I drill a hole through joiner and the foot of the rail from the outside of the track and screw in a small good quality stainless steel screw. these will last forever and will unscrew when you need them too. (Don't use cheep chinese stainless screws they will break the heads off 'coz there too brittle) a good plated screw would work as well. I used to use just plain screws but only about 25% of them came out when I tried to lift the sidings where they were fitted it's a shame 'coz they do look good when they rust in a little..........................Paul.....................
 
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