Post spacing

DGE-Railroad

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I'm just planning the spacing for the Metposts for my layout.

The posts I'm using are 4x4 at a 2bout a 2' height.

Could I get away with a 6' distance between posts on the straights?
Many thanks
Darren
 

Gtarling

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I think it mostly depends on what you use to span the distance between the posts and support the track. Perhaps do a bit of testing on what you plan to use in order to determine what sort of load it'll carry without sagging and take things from there. I have to say that I think 4 x 4 posts are a bit on the hefty side - why not use 3 x 3 and save a bit of money?
 
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Alpineandy

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I'm just planning the spacing for the Metposts for my layout.

The posts I'm using are 4x4 at a 2bout a 2' height.

Could I get away with a 6' distance between posts on the straights?
Many thanks
Darren

Rather depends upon what you are supporting. 3 by 3 are sufficient.
 
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Rhinochugger

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Six foot is the same as a fence panel, so in theory it ought to stay up - however, the other question is how wide is the track bed going to be; single or double or four-track main line :nerd::nerd: ?
 
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JimmyB

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Agree 3 X 3 should do for the support, but for the track bed are using lateral support along the length e.g. a 4 X 1 track bed with 2 X 1 running underneath to support. Really need more information to answer, however place your 6ft length on two house bricks put a train on top, does it sag - the answer will be yes, but by how much and is it acceptable e.g. 1/8" sag or 2" sag!!
 
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DGE-Railroad

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Thanks all. Testing a few spans before going all-out sounds like the way to go.

I'm using the 4x4s as I already had a supply of Metposts in that size. I'm intending to run twin track on top. As you guys have pointed out though, it's likely to depend on with what and how the span is done. I guess some triangulation between post and span could help mitigate any slight sagging that occurs.

I'll do some investigation and report back!
 

voodoopenguin

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Is this just for the straight runs or will there be curves? Have you thought what you will be doing about curves?

Paul
 
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Rhinochugger

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Thanks all. Testing a few spans before going all-out sounds like the way to go.

I'm using the 4x4s as I already had a supply of Metposts in that size. I'm intending to run twin track on top. As you guys have pointed out though, it's likely to depend on with what and how the span is done. I guess some triangulation between post and span could help mitigate any slight sagging that occurs.

I'll do some investigation and report back!
Or make a short timber skirt down each side so that the track bed forms a sideways, inverted 'C' - the strength is in the vertical sections. If you can glue it and screw it with a good exterior wood glue, it'll be very solid :nod::nod:
 
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PhilP

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Depends a lot on what you want to use for a deck, and how you support / brace that?

28mm decking boards, would sag (over time) with no intermediate support.. However if you built a 'ladder' of 3x1 either side of your posts, with spacer-blocks every ?18? inches, then cut the decking boards and laid them across the ladder. Then that would be pretty bomb-proof.

I would over-engineer.. If (except for the extreme edges) you can walk on it, it should do the job!

PhilP.
 
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dunnyrail

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I'm just planning the spacing for the Metposts for my layout.

The posts I'm using are 4x4 at a 2bout a 2' height.

Could I get away with a 6' distance between posts on the straights?
Many thanks
Darren
6ft gaps will be fine so long as what you are supporting is solid. Wooden Gravel Boards made into a U will be well happy with that also decking used the same way. Much of my raised wooden parts are 8x2 wooden joists sonthe 6ft gap is probably overkill. Look at my build linked below to see much of what I did in the early days.
 
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DGE-Railroad

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Thanks again folks!

Just to answer Paul's point, it's only for the main drags. The corners are much closer spacing.

I'd initially thought of plates on top of the poststo extend the support outwards a few inches, then a U section as suggested for the stringers. The appeal of the U section was not only to help elimate sag and strengthen the span, but also to provide some train protection in case of derailments.

My plan had been timber of some kind for the stringers but I'm starting to wonder if the cable tray approach may not be a light, durable pre-fab solution to achieve the same thing

Thanks for the build link for your track JonD - I'll take a look at that
 
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