Pola 330911 Double Track Loco Shed
- Thread starter AddictiveBiscuit
- Start date
I think you will like it. To check sizes, you may want to consult LGB's catalogs, where you will find the lengths of all of their locomotives.
This kit can be assembled several ways, I believe - the short and long shed version as shown in the picture, or as a more typical shed with two long bays. You can also get extension sets to make it even longer and/or give it more bays.
Jon.
Jon.
Most locos will fit in easily in theory (you have just over two feet) but if you place a buffer hidden inside (don't trust your driving skills not to bash into the rear wall of the shed?) then you have to allow 5-6 inches less for that. The loco shed can be disassembled and reassembled in different configurations as required, using clever hole and pins system. You get 4 side walls, 2 end walls and 2 sets of doors along with 4 roof sections that you can arrange any which way. You can even make two small sheds. You can make bigger sheds by extensions as Jon said. You can also get kits to motorize the doors. The clearance just about leaves enough room for overhead catenary and the kit comes with fittings to hold the wires, but it would be tight.
I've made up several Pola kits and all of them have come with glue included (UHU). The amount provided is sufficient but I always keep a tube of Pola's own glue around "just in case" any areas can benefit from an extra application.
http://www.topslotsntrains.com/topslotsntrains/final.asp?id=4307&manufacturer='POLA G Scale'
The above blurb, states locos up to 25 inches in length, guessing that includes over the standard coupling arrangement, so if you have hooks on both ends, will need to consider that.
The above blurb, states locos up to 25 inches in length, guessing that includes over the standard coupling arrangement, so if you have hooks on both ends, will need to consider that.
I have recently completed one of these and agree with the comments above it is a nice bit of kit 
. I did however make one ting muck up on the door hinge of one side 
as I cut one of the parts off the sprue at the wrong point...
.
I plan on fixing the unit to the ground as it is not totally ridged given the method of holding the parts together being pin and block.
Someone mentioned that the doors can be motorised, anyone got a pic of this
as I thought it was just a mechanical device of some sort like in the small engine shed I have?
. I did however make one ting muck up on the door hinge of one side as I cut one of the parts off the sprue at the wrong point....I plan on fixing the unit to the ground as it is not totally ridged given the method of holding the parts together being pin and block.
Someone mentioned that the doors can be motorised, anyone got a pic of this
as I thought it was just a mechanical device of some sort like in the small engine shed I have?
'Tis true, Pola cement which is thick is the best thing to use, thin glues just can't handle the size of these buildings. Unlike smaller indoor scales it I found it best to glue from the inside of the building using dabs to provisionally fix parts in place then doing run welds. I also found the Pola buildings which use a thick plastic are far more stable than their Piko cousins.
The doors are operated by what is basically a rubber band and spring system, not motorised. I think Whatlep once tried to improve the system but can't remember if old Tigger managed it.
The doors are operated by what is basically a rubber band and spring system, not motorised. I think Whatlep once tried to improve the system but can't remember if old Tigger managed it.
Well I've ordered it should be here before my birthday I hope! I've built plenty of 1/35 kits so I shouldn't have any problems with this (I Hope!)
There pretty reasonably priced Pola kits.. I'm tempted to find somewhere for a bridge. The 331060 Steel girder bridge looks very nice!
Don't forget the "weathered" look is a paint wash. You need to remove this, usually sanding or scraping with a flat blade, on all mating surfaces that you apply adhesive to. Otherwise things fall apart sooner rather than later. Max
That was me, I mistakenly thought that the Pola 331751 Auto Door Closing System had a motor given that it costs best part of £40 but it looks like it is mechanical, perhaps someone who has one can confirm. I'm sure it would be possible to fit a small servo motor but it would be DIY job.Someone mentioned that the doors can be motorised, anyone got a pic of this
I think the weathered look is moulded in and not painted on. If the glue used has the correct solvent base the mating parts are quite solidly joined and should not come apart.
Some of these kits are definitely painted. I think its UV protection. I don't have the loco shed so cant confirm that one.
For some small bits I think you may well be right such as the smoke trails above the doors, but there is none as far as I remember where bits are glued together. I also have the girder bridge which has a sort of red lead/rusty look and that has not interfered with gluing it together. In fact I needed to modify it after having built it and it required some brute force and sharp objects to get the desired parts to come apart
I agree with Alan..
Although parts are moulded in different base-colours of plastics, many are painted as well..
? Not sure if there is an overall spray of 'something' to help with UV stability? Though I believe the plastics (and pigments) used are quite UV stable natively..
Although parts are moulded in different base-colours of plastics, many are painted as well..
? Not sure if there is an overall spray of 'something' to help with UV stability? Though I believe the plastics (and pigments) used are quite UV stable natively..