Point motors

I've got a pair of those NQD plastic points stashed away somewhere, I seem to recall that the manual lever is pretty much a clone of the LGB manual lever, so there's a fair chance an LGB or Piko motor should do the job.

C Captain Flack just be aware that if you use an LGB or Piko point motor, these operate using a 2 wire reversible DC pulse which is different to the 3-wire connection used with twin solenoid point motors such as the Peco items, and therefore requires a different kind of switching arrangement. This can be the proper LGB switch box, or can be achieved using a momentary toggle switch and a pair of diodes from an AC supply.

GM511 SPDT Momentary Contact Toggle Switch G Scale Point Motors (G Scale) by Gaugemaster - Rails of Sheffield
 
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Right... I've dug out an NQD point, removed the manual lever and offered up an LGB point motor.

The "12mm" throw quoted before must have been measured from the tips of the blades, the throw at the tiebar itself is 9-10mm on my example.

I reckon an LGB motor will "just about" do the job, though notice that it needs to sit butting up to the ends of the sleepers: the mounting holes don't line up with those in the sleeper ends to which the manual switch was fitted. Would probably benefit from warming and bending the tips of the blades just a little to ensure they are fully flush with the stock rails. If the Piko equivalent motor does indeed have a slightly longer throw then that would be a better choice I think.

IMG_2938.JPGIMG_2939.JPG
 
ECR (East Coast Railways?) is a well known (in UK) eBay retailer that sells Newqida aka NQD. They also sell Piko. Pile 'em high and sell 'em cheap could be their motto.
 
ECR? NQD?

ECR is a Chinese LGB knockoff?

I think NQD is NewQuida?

So the point motor costs more than the switch?

Greg

As stated, ECR is now known (at least in the model railway world) as East Coast Railways.. - A model shop which was mainly model aircraft, and may still officially (or partly?) be East Coast Rotor (model helicopters / drones)..
People were very 'sniffy' about them pushing the Chinese product, but the flat-wagons, and coaches, are a source of stock for bashing.

They have never made a secret of what they are selling, and seem to be more accepted now? - They also d o a number of non-NQD items, and (some) Piko.

You will see adverts on evilBay for 'flats' in bulk.. - useful to get a decent length of train, cheaply.

Cost, is possibly why the OP had gone for a Peco point-motor?
But yes, the point motor would cost more than the point (switch).
:)
 
ECR? NQD?

ECR is a Chinese LGB knockoff?

I think NQD is NewQuida?

So the point motor costs more than the switch?

Greg
Yes, to all 5 of those questions :p:p

But it is raising an interesting development that I hinted at earlier.

If you're looking at battery power, and if you're building an indoor railroad, why wouldn't you look at plastic track?

At 9 Great British Pounds each point (turnout) that's a serious saving, and one could be tempted to say, 'So what if the motorised element is more than the point? - the overall package is still a darn site cheaper'.

Trust me, I'm an expert on cheap, and a devout bodger :nerd::nerd::nerd::nerd:
 
Yes, to all 5 of those questions :p:p

But it is raising an interesting development that I hinted at earlier.

If you're looking at battery power, and if you're building an indoor railroad, why wouldn't you look at plastic track?

At 9 Great British Pounds each point (turnout) that's a serious saving, and one could be tempted to say, 'So what if the motorised element is more than the point? - the overall package is still a darn site cheaper'.

Trust me, I'm an expert on cheap, and a devout bodger :nerd::nerd::nerd::nerd:
My goodness he admits he is cheep!
 
To be honest I would be seriously concerned about the long term strength of the cheap NQD plastic, and I very much doubt it has much UV protection for serious outdoors use.

I only have my example as the track pack came with the loco and coaches I bought. It's sat unused at the back of the shed ever since.

I would use brass track every time.
 
To be honest I would be seriously concerned about the long term strength of the cheap NQD plastic, and I very much doubt it has much UV protection for serious outdoors use.

I only have my example as the track pack came with the loco and coaches I bought. It's sat unused at the back of the shed ever since.

I would use brass track every time.
Yep, I was careful to say indoors - I've heard that it gets brittle with UV.

On the other hand, I might wish to talk to you about your track pack some time - I have a cunning plan :nerd::nerd::nerd:
 
I use 18 volts for the LGB EPL drives. This makes the turnouts snap quick. Also how these drives mount on different manufacturers makes a difference.
 
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