Point motors

Captain Flack

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I have 45mm track which was purchased for me as a present, so changing it is not an option. I want to fit surface fitted point motors but the one I have bought as a trial, doesn't have sufficient throw to operate the points properly.
Can someone point me in the direction of what model number, manufacturer I should be checking out. I am running live steam and battery so have no track power.
Many thanks
 
Do you know the make of the point you are fitting it to?

I had a similar problem when I fitted a LGB motor to a 2nd hand Train-Line R2 point. I had to buy a T-L motor for it, a make I hadn't tried before, and it solved the issue....
 
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I have found that Piko motors will throw LGB points, but LGB motors are right on the limit to throw Piko points.
 
What brand and model of point, and what brand of motor have you tried which doesn't quite do the job?
 
Requests specific model numbers for solution but gives absolutely no info regarding the items used. :confused:
Not sure why you feel the need to be quite so superior. Being a complete newbie to this I assumed that 45mm points would be 45mm points. Obviously not. I think I have a 00 gauge so thought I wanted a longer throw point motor.
Thanks for the info. I don't think I'll ask anything again.
 
Not sure why you feel the need to be quite so superior. Being a complete newbie to this I assumed that 45mm points would be 45mm points. Obviously not. I think I have a 00 gauge so thought I wanted a longer throw point motor.
Thanks for the info. I don't think I'll ask anything again.

Hi,

Please do not take that to heart. Any question here is not a stupid question if you do not know its answer and someone will normally come along and answer you or as you have seen ask for more information from you in order to formulate an answer (and then expect to get several different answers). It is good to provide as much information as you initially can though ;)
 
Requests specific model numbers for solution but gives absolutely no info regarding the items used. :confused:

Can we be more positive and constructive please?
 
Not sure why you feel the need to be quite so superior. Being a complete newbie to this I assumed that 45mm points would be 45mm points. Obviously not. I think I have a 00 gauge so thought I wanted a longer throw point motor.
Thanks for the info. I don't think I'll ask anything again.

Sorry, I was a bit brash. I'm just curios, not feeling superior. :shake:
Please tell us what you are using and I'm sure someone can help. :)
 
Not sure why you feel the need to be quite so superior. Being a complete newbie to this I assumed that 45mm points would be 45mm points. Obviously not. I think I have a 00 gauge so thought I wanted a longer throw point motor.
Thanks for the info. I don't think I'll ask anything again.
You do need to identify which make of points you have - as Gizzy has identified, not all manufacturer's points have the same throw - it's the one area that can vary on a point while the rest of the geometry meets the requirements of a common wheel standard.

You'll usually find on here that the more info you can give, the more help you'll receive :nod: :nod:

This forum is a pretty good place for getting answers to tricky questions :clap::clap:
 
This is what I have bought (rightly or wrongly)
1. Peko PL-11 Side mounted turnout motor
2. peko PL-26R passing Contact switch.
I have had it working from a 12v DC supply and it works no problem, just not enough throw from the particular motor that i have.

I have ECR plastic track which currently has manual points. I have measured the throw on the rails and it would appear that I need a 12mm throw (I think?)
Hope this is what you need.
Once again, thanks
 
I'm not familiar with the ECR plastic track, but I believe it is similar to the LGB product, in terms of rail height and geometry.

I reckon a LGB or PIKO motor would work. You could use the Gaugemaster SPDT (Momentary) Toggle G Scale Point Motor Switch-Gaugemaster-GM511 switch to operate it.

From my research, the Peco PL-11 and PL-26R are for the smaller scales, and might not be suitable for an outdoors environment, where as the LGB/PIKO/TRAINLINE motors will be. Even the Peco G45 points use the LGB motor with their own Adaptor plate.

Something for you to bear in mind....
 
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You will need to fit a 'bell-crank' to increase the throw..

DSC02251.JPG
You can cut the 'bell-crank from an offcut of plastic, and use a screw and washer for the pivot. - I happened to have a 'horn' from a servo kicking-about..
The motor drives the short-leg, and by uses a hole further from the pivot, you get a greater throw to the point.. If you have nothing else, paperclips are a source of firm wire to make the linkages..
(Apologies for the carp picture!)

PhilP.
 
LGB 12010 is the LGB motor. You might find these in a Model Shop near you.

The similar but slightly larger PIKO one is Pt. No. 35271. Again you might find these locally....
 
This is what I have bought (rightly or wrongly)
1. Peko PL-11 Side mounted turnout motor
2. peko PL-26R passing Contact switch.
I have had it working from a 12v DC supply and it works no problem, just not enough throw from the particular motor that i have.

I have ECR plastic track which currently has manual points. I have measured the throw on the rails and it would appear that I need a 12mm throw (I think?)
Hope this is what you need.
Once again, thanks
Excellent stuff, and that answers three questions at once.

Peco make 45mm track, but the throw on their 45mm gauge points is shorter than the majority of other manufacturers - I found that out when I tried to use their manual point lever on a different make of track.

12 mm throw sounds quite long, but I haven't used the ECR plastic points, although I was thinking of a cunning plan :think::think:

Many people who run battery power will still tend to be using brass track, mainly because they bought it when it was a lot cheaper a few years back and have subsequently changed over to battery power.

Phil's suggestion of a bell crank (a right angle arm pivoted at the angle) means that if you have a shorter arm to the point motor, you then use a longer arm to the point mechanism and that will give you a longer throw. It's back to yer school physics EFL, FLE, FEL - in this case E is the short crank (with the rod attached in the picture) F is the fulcrum or pivot screw and L needs to be the furthest hole on the other arm >:)>:)>:)>:)

1582819998808.png

Just off to do a bit of research on point motors and throw etc etc

EDIT - well, the only one that gives the faintest hint of talking about throw is the Tortoise point motor which says it is adjustable for gauges from Z to G .

Peco make a servo motor PLS-125 which looks as if it ought to have enough throw, and it's cheaper than the Tortoise, but still dearer than the PL-11.

If you're using anything other than a servo point motor, then a Capacitor Discharge Unit (CDU) is a must, particularly if you're going down the crank route - however, you can wire the points quite simply using the passing contact switches so that one CDU will supply all the points on a layout.
 
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OK yeah - if you search for G scale points on evilbay, you'll be able to see the difference between the throw on the ECR plastic points and some LGB ones. On the ECR points the gap between the blade and the stock rail is quite large.

There is another possibility, but it depends how the blade is fixed to the tie bar. if it's a mechanical joint, can it be dismantled, and re-fixed to the tie bar a bit further out, thus reducing the throw?

You'll have to be careful, but you'll see where my mind is headed when you look at the images of an LGB point. ;);)
 
OK yeah - if you search for G scale points on evilbay, you'll be able to see the difference between the throw on the ECR plastic points and some LGB ones. On the ECR points the gap between the blade and the stock rail is quite large.

There is another possibility, but it depends how the blade is fixed to the tie bar. if it's a mechanical joint, can it be dismantled, and re-fixed to the tie bar a bit further out, thus reducing the throw?

You'll have to be careful, but you'll see where my mind is headed when you look at the images of an LGB point. ;);)
I'm not allowed to use EvilBuy at work, so my research has been elsewhere.

Jimmy reckons the PIKO motor has a longer throw than the LGB motor, so maybe that would be the best solution for the good Captain?

Motorising a ECR/NQD point isn't something I've seen done before, so he could be the first person to do this....
 
12mm does indeed sound "off", that would imply that the point rail not in contact with the outer (stock) rail has a gap of over a centimeter... I have seen many switches in G, but I do not remember one with that large of a gap.

It might be a good idea to double check that measurement.

On another note, it would be nice to have a chart somewhere with the throws of the various switch motors.

Greg
 
If the manual switch fits... The powered one should?


Post #10

PhilP.
 
I'm not allowed to use EvilBuy at work, so my research has been elsewhere.

Jimmy reckons the PIKO motor has a longer throw than the LGB motor, so maybe that would be the best solution for the good Captain?

Motorising a ECR/NQD point isn't something I've seen done before, so he could be the first person to do this....
Mmm, I've just looked at the image of Piko points that ECR put on evilbay (the pictures are pretty good) and the throw doesn't look as big as the NQD / plastic track. to be honest, the plastic point looks as if it has a massive throw, and the Captain's 12mm sounds about right looking at the pictures. I think I had to adapt a Gauge 1 turnout for the 8mm throw on my USAT point. Gauge 1 I think is about 6mm.

I suppose the other thing is to call for Jon Dunnyrail, and his compressed air system - that should be able to accommodate a variety of point throw distances.

JON!
 
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