Point control panel

Bryan Thatcher

Bryan Thatcher

Registered
I am looking for feedback on how you set up your controls. For example do you use push button or toggle switches and why is that your preference. Are your switches organised in a similar layout as your track/points? A simple diagram or light up representation of the accessible track.
I am using a single engine on DC only setup. The layout is a small double loop and i'll be adding a yard on the inside soon. Thanks.

G-Layout_01.PNG
 
Good Morning Bryan. I've set up small control stands on two locations in the garden. Nothing more than a piece of Unistrut with a small piece of plastic decking board on top. This way they are more or less invisible, as per SWMBO instructions.

For my points I am using LGB switch machines. I power them with a 14.8 Volt Li-On battery and have converted an LGB switch control box into toggle switches.

It all works very nicely and keeps wiring to a minimum. I will try to get some photos and post them here.

As for the trains I run battery power so the only control there would be the hand held transmitter.
 
Is this indoors or outside Bryan?
Are you having any isolated sections.?
 
stockers said:
Is this indoors or outside Bryan?
Are you having any isolated sections.?
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It's an indoor layout. No isolated track if I don't need it, since I only have the one engine. To be honest I haven't gotten that far. Since I don't have a return loop I was thinking it would be pretty basic.
 
Generally my preference for my layouts is for a mimic diagram with push buttons. When my G scale layout was in operation I had a little plastic box with a diagram on top, and simple stud-and-probe (later converted to push buttons). However my points were DCC operated so I didn't need any heavy wiring.

minipanel2.jpg

minipanel1.jpg

For a simple layout like yours, where I presume the points are all close by your operating position then maybe the standard LGB point control boxes would be fine?
 
Bryan Thatcher said:
No isolated track if I don't need it, since I only have the one engine.
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I'd suggest putting isolating fishplates between both crossovers now and having a power feed to each oval. You can link them both to one controller for now, but eventually you'll have more than one loco and more than one controller!
 
Bryan Thatcher said:
To be honest I haven't gotten that far.
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I agree to not make life complicated but plan ahead a little - you WILL get more locos and guests will appear out of nowhere.
Nicks comment about the two loops is a very good idea, also, put in an isolation for the internal sidings - probably more than one. Push to make buttons are simple and work well - also. center off switches which contact both ways are good for point control. A couple of on/off switches for isolating sections and the main two loops would also be fine.
A mimic bard is good but also as your set up is fairly simple a row of switches would work just as well.
 
and you only need to isolate one rail, not both - just decide if its the inner or outer rail that you insulate. you can use this round the whole layout so long as you isolate the same side rail.
 
stockers said:
and you only need to isolate one rail, not both - just decide if its the inner or outer rail that you insulate. you can use this round the whole layout so long as you isolate the same side rail.
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Always isolate both rails between those crossovers though.
 
No need to. So long as you isolate both tracks on the upper or lower rail between the two loops it will work.
 
I think we'll agree to dis-agree then :D Probably 'cos I've had long experience of various controllers on layouts in the small scales (problems with controllers on common transformer windings .v. totally separate windings etc.). IMO safer (and no more effort) to simply cut both rails so there's no common circuit once you have two controllers in use.

Also means you can DCC one track and leave the other DC (eg. for visiting locos) though ideally you need a safety buffer zone of dead/switchable track between the two circuits.
 
Thank you for the suggestions! I like the idea of using center off toggles, plus I think I have a bunch of them.

Regarding planning: I have been planning ahead as far as purchases go. But I need to be careful, I can plan something to death and never do anything. I'd rather drop this track wrong and learn something than work out every little thing ahead of time.
 
Can you extend lengthwise on your planned layout? If you added a couple of points off one end of the oval, you could have termini each of which could have a runaround and a siding. This would allow end-to-end running and also, if the exits from the oval were isolated, allow shunting operations while another train was running on the main oval.

It means having more than one loco, but you will have eventually, even if only to cover your main loco needing servicing or breraking down.
 
Bryan Thatcher said:
Thank you for the suggestions! I like the idea of using center off toggles, plus I think I have a bunch of them.

Regarding planning: I have been planning ahead as far as purchases go. But I need to be careful, I can plan something to death and never do anything. I'd rather drop this track wrong and learn something than work out every little thing ahead of time.
Click to expand...

Can't beat getting some track laid
 
Brian, this is what I did, using centre off toggles.

The yard.

6 May 13 (1a) (600 x 450).jpg

The ground -frame.

Ground Frames (12) (600 x 450).jpg

Obviously as mine is outside it is weather protected hence the black covers on the switches. The power unit in the background has since been done away with and a solar fed 12v battery installed.
 
If you have some DPDT centre-off toggle switches, these would be ideal for LGB point-motors..
For a supply, you can use two 9V batteries in series (if not bothering with mimic lights). - you only draw power when you fire the point, so they will last for ages.
you can use similar off/on toggle switches to isolate the sections..
 
I've been using an ancient Scalextric transformer as a point motor supply since my 0 gauge days, but the idea of a couple of PP3's certainly appeals. I'm sure I could fit them into my control box and thereby eliminate a mains lead... lots of advantages when you think about it.
 
Mmmm - I use the 1:1 thumb and forefinger for my point controls - very reliable :mask::mask::mask: with very little (as in none) wiring involved :emo::emo::emo: apart from isolation of each loop :)
 
PhilP said:
If you have some DPDT centre-off toggle switches, these would be ideal for LGB point-motors..
Click to expand...
They really need to be biased (ON)-OFF-(ON) type so it's only a momentary application of power.
 
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