Playmobil Motor/Battery Specs

[McCoy]

Hi

I’m looking to convert some older track powered PM locos to RC, plus upgrade some 27mhz as well. They’re all in transit to me still, so I don’t have my hands on them to test out yet, so want to get a handle on the specs so I can order battery packs to arrive at the same time...

I’m guessing it’s been identified/calculated before, but are there any motor specs (voltage/load) for the different versions? I gather the track power ones are 16v rated, whilst I’m guessing the 27mhz are 6v and the 2.4ghz is 9v? Basing this on size of battery packs and photos of PCBs I’ve found.

Also has anybody identified a source of replacement motors? I’ll likely end up with different battery pack requirements for each loco, but if I can swap the motors for a standard voltage/wattage and standardise the electronics.......

Keen to get an idea as to the current ratings of ESC people use, and how they spec batteries for their locos. With Li-on/LiPo getting a suitable voltage can be tricky but making the assumption it’s a problem already solved!

First pass I plan to use RC car kit I’ve already got, and then build some custom 2.4ghz wireless hardware.



Thanks!

 

[korm kormsen]

i have two PM powerpacks.
one is marked 0 - 14V /5VA, the other 0 - 16Veff / 16VA.

 

[-bbbb]

I think you've got the voltages right. The motors are different in some variants. The 2.4 ghz train seems to have a pair of much noisier motors . The motors on the 27 mhz trains sound very quiet.

I've converted a couple of playmobil track powered 4-4-0's to RC with a playmobil RC car module and two 9 volt lithium ion batteries in series. There's a video here:

There's more information in the video description if you watch it on youtube and read the text below the video, and there's a warning there about using the batteries the way I did. A problem I didn't mention there about that set up is that on electric track the battery power powers the track and might run other trains on the same track at the same time. So I only use this kind of conversion on plastic track, and keep track power on electric track. I was able to stick the same RC car system into a cheap chinese scientific train controlling the cheap chinese motor and it seems to work fine. I was also able to control a bachmann big hauler with that same playmobil RC car transmitter.
You can see that big hauler running with the playmobil rc car transmitter here:

 

[McCoy]

i have two PM powerpacks.
one is marked 0 - 14V /5VA, the other 0 - 16Veff / 16VA.

Are these the voltages/wattage off the power supplies for live track?

 

[PhilP]

Are these the voltages/wattage off the power supplies for live track?

Yes, but you can ignore the power-ratings, to a great extent..
The motor will consume 500-800mA. so you will not have to worry.

You will also find that 7-2 - 9.6 Volts (NiMH) or a '2S' Lithium pack will be adequate for sensible (scale) speeds. - Also, not so fast the train will 'fall-off' on the curves, if pushed, by junior drivers.

 

[Walts-Playmobil]

If the track powered and the 27 MHz locos are pushed on the tracks there it is possible to strip the gear train. This is due to the wheels being driven by a worm gear on the motor. The 2.4 GHz has a gear train from the motor to the wheels and will not strip the gears if pushed along the track.

 

[korm kormsen]

Are these the voltages/wattage off the power supplies for live track?

yes.

the smaller one, No 4350, is DC (track) 0 - 14V / 5VA, and AC (switches) 14V / 14VA

the other one, No 4359, is DC 0 - 16Veff / 16VA, and AC 14V / 14VA

no Watts mentioned on the packs.

 

[McCoy]

Yes, but you can ignore the power-ratings, to a great extent..
The motor will consume 500-800mA. so you will not have to worry.
You will also find that 7-2 - 9.6 Volts (NiMH) or a '2S' Lithium pack will be adequate for sensible (scale) speeds. - Also, not so fast the train will 'fall-off' on the curves, if pushed, by junior drivers.

Ahhh, thats brilliant, thanks!
Would that motor consumption be about the same across the different motor types?
Are the motors on the 27mhz and 2.4ghz the same voltage, or are they as I suspect, 6 and 9v respectively?

Does anybody have experience of powering a 6v or 9v playmobil motor off a 2s battery pack? I’ll be using an ESC, and can tune max on the controller, so in theory can adjust the top end...

Same goes for the 16V, are they usable off a 2s, or am I better with a 3s for those?

My hope is to standardise on the electronics for all of them, hence if I can swap motors for a standard voltage that’d be a good option too...

 

[McCoy]

Also, another thought, has anybody put LiPo batteries into the playmobil battery packs?

 

[PhilP]

Would that motor consumption be about the same across the different motor types?
Are the motors on the 27mhz and 2.4ghz the same voltage, or are they as I suspect, 6 and 9v respectively?

The lower voltage motor will use slightly more current for the same output-power, but they will be fairly similar. - I would expect the newer motors to be more efficient than the older motors, if only because technology has moved-on.

Same goes for the 16V, are they usable off a 2s

See comment about 'top-speed'.. The "16V rating" is the transformer/supply.. What voltage you are actually supplying to the motor, depends how high you turn the controller up.


I think you will discover that either 9.6V NiMH, or '2S' Lithium will be fine..

Regarding fitting Lithium technology into the Playmobil packs:
As I assume you are replacing the old 27mHz equipment.. I would 'fix' the batteries, and add a switch and charging socket to one of the side-lockers on the big-white train.
For the smaller loco's I would be careful of the worn/corroded contacts on the battery (and more-especially the loco).. Thinking of how 'happy' Lithium batteries are to supply lot's of current.

What ever you do, ALWAYS! FIT A FUSE!!

Enjoy!
PhilP.

 

[McCoy]

So, I got a white ICE (not sure of the model number/version at moment) that turns out to have had leaking NiMh batteries. I stripped and have cleaned it out. I’m doing so, I removed the motor and found the manufacturers part number.

Quick google later, and it’s either a 12v or a 6v motor, though based on the voltage range I’m assuming it’s the 6v version.

I don’t have a 2.4ghz loco yet, as currently coverting a black 27mhz steam loco instead.

I do have a track powered loco on its way, so would be useful if anybody can supply the part number printed on one of those motors?

Finally, has anybody sourced a LiPo that’ll fit into the battery case, or would at least fit into the battery slot? It’s such a big void, and would simplify things if the new LiPo battery could live in that space. The space for the old electronics is certainly big enough for a new replacement 2.4ghz receiver and ESC, and probably a UBEC and Arduino too... would be very neat if everything could be packed into the chassis!

 

[dunnyrail]

So, I got a white ICE (not sure of the model number/version at moment) that turns out to have had leaking NiMh batteries. I stripped and have cleaned it out. I’m doing so, I removed the motor and found the manufacturers part number.

Quick google later, and it’s either a 12v or a 6v motor, though based on the voltage range I’m assuming it’s the 6v version.

I don’t have a 2.4ghz loco yet, as currently coverting a black 27mhz steam loco instead.

I do have a track powered loco on its way, so would be useful if anybody can supply the part number printed on one of those motors?

Finally, has anybody sourced a LiPo that’ll fit into the battery case, or would at least fit into the battery slot? It’s such a big void, and would simplify things if the new LiPo battery could live in that space. The space for the old electronics is certainly big enough for a new replacement 2.4ghz receiver and ESC, and probably a UBEC and Arduino too... would be very neat if everything could be packed into the chassis!

So I have given up on LiPo but have 2 sets of paired 3.7v 750mAH which make 7.2v and who knows what mAH. Paired with 3 wires for Balanced Charging using 3 pin Plugs and Sockets they would be able to be removed and charged direct using a Balanced Charger. Pictures show that a 2 pack fit nicely into an old PM Battery Box that has trashed NiCad? batteries. This pack would also fit the box in a Railcar or any other PM item that needs this power supply. Quite how you would make the connections work is another matter, I would rewire for a 3 pin plug. I would look to JST 3 pin.

http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/images/gen/micron/mrc-jstph-jstxh-2s-charge-adapter_500.jpg

Pics of Battery Box with LiPo pack.




I am sure that Phil will comment on the practicalities of what I have said.

 

[PhilP]

I am sure that Phil will comment on the practicalities of what I have said.

You wish, is my command!

if you are stripping-out the old electronics, there is plenty of space for 'anything', really..

I would use a standard 'red' JST-RCY pair of connectors, one on the '2S' pack, and one in the battery-recess of the chassis. - Enough slack to get the '2S' out, if needed.
Then I would have the 3-pin balance charging connector loose in the opening, and perhaps fabricate a 'hatch' to cover it up?

If you wanted to use the original electronics, with a '2S' Lipo, you would need to incorporate a 'buck' converter to drop the voltage. - The Playmobil electronics can be a bit finnicky about voltages..

PhilP.

 

[McCoy]

So I have given up on LiPo but have 2 sets of paired 3.7v 750mAH which make 7.2v and who knows what mAH. Paired with 3 wires for Balanced Charging using 3 pin Plugs and Sockets they would be able to be removed and charged direct using a Balanced Charger. Pictures show that a 2 pack fit nicely into an old PM Battery Box that has trashed NiCad? batteries. This pack would also fit the box in a Railcar or any other PM item that needs this power supply. Quite how you would make the connections work is another matter, I would rewire for a 3 pin plug. I would look to JST 3 pin.

http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/images/gen/micron/mrc-jstph-jstxh-2s-charge-adapter_500.jpg

Pics of Battery Box with LiPo pack.

View attachment 266170View attachment 266171


I am sure that Phil will comment on the practicalities of what I have said.

That’s exactly my thought process with using that void to fit the battery - annoyingly I’ve not found a stacked battery like that as a 2S (well maybe I have, and it has a barrel connector too but need to check measurements carefully).

 

[McCoy]

You wish, is my command!

if you are stripping-out the old electronics, there is plenty of space for 'anything', really..

I would use a standard 'red' JST-RCY pair of connectors, one on the '2S' pack, and one in the battery-recess of the chassis. - Enough slack to get the '2S' out, if needed.
Then I would have the 3-pin balance charging connector loose in the opening, and perhaps fabricate a 'hatch' to cover it up?

If you wanted to use the original electronics, with a '2S' Lipo, you would need to incorporate a 'buck' converter to drop the voltage. - The Playmobil electronics can be a bit finnicky about voltages..

PhilP.

Yeah I’m not planning to use PM electronics, just the motor and the space!

 

[PhilP]

Yeah I’m not planning to use PM electronics, just the motor and the space!

So put the battery inside, and use the void for a Charge/Off/Run toggle-switch, and the balance charge lead..

<edit.>
Would also mean 'little-fingers' could not get-at the battery so easily..

 

[McCoy]

So, I’m struggling to find a small reversing ESC. Looking at motor specs, the 6V version is stall load of 18A, and efficient load of just over 3A... the curve shows a peak of about 20-25A.

I love the turnigy 20A ESC; it’s got a peak of 30A, and is tiny. Only trouble is it’s not reversing, but does have a brake.

My interim solution I think is to get an RC relay board, and run the motor that way. Long term either find/make reversing ESC, or with my Arduino control, build a better reversing relay/mosfet arrangement. Or just an H bridge!

I have an ICE to play with - it came without a remote (and leaked batteries), so I’ve already stripped the drive system apart. I’ve got most of the bits needed about, so could get this working in a few days as a trial...

 

[McCoy]

So put the battery inside, and use the void for a Charge/Off/Run toggle-switch, and the balance charge lead..

<edit.>
Would also mean 'little-fingers' could not get-at the battery so easily..

I like the idea of being able to remove the batteries easily for charging (have a toddler, so a loco sitting being charged is a bigger temptation!) plus added safety when they’re stored away...

 

[-bbbb]

Also has anybody identified a source of replacement motors?

I'd be interested in this as well.... Also, if there are compatible higher quality motors available, and where.
.