Piko vs Pola - Another G Scale Mystery

David Palmeter

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Pictured is my new 1:24 scale indoor layout (Kalamazoo, Delton, Hartland, mostly). A decade or so ago, I had purchased some Piko structures that I had on my outdoor layout for several years and had begun to move them indoors to the new layout. Recently a friend offered me a package deal that included three Pola buildings. When I got them home, I was amazed at the difference in overall bulk (the Saloon, Hotel and Hardware are Pola). I used the doors as my guide and, assuming they represented 80" doors (maybe not true in the old west, but John Wayne was tall), the Piko buildings are 1:27 scale and the Pola buildings are 1:20 scale. In the shot from the back, you can see the problem with my access hatch opening, I considered some kitbashing but the siding, shingles and most Pola components are very bulky. Yes, I definitely won't put them next to each other.

Any suggestions, comments, photos of your solutions? Or advice - don't worry, be happy? Thanks......


PikoPola01px1024.jpg

PikoPola02px1024.jpg

PikoPola03px1024.jpg
 

GAP

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Pictured is my new 1:24 scale indoor layout (Kalamazoo, Delton, Hartland, mostly). A decade or so ago, I had purchased some Piko structures that I had on my outdoor layout for several years and had begun to move them indoors to the new layout. Recently a friend offered me a package deal that included three Pola buildings. When I got them home, I was amazed at the difference in overall bulk (the Saloon, Hotel and Hardware are Pola). I used the doors as my guide and, assuming they represented 80" doors (maybe not true in the old west, but John Wayne was tall), the Piko buildings are 1:27 scale and the Pola buildings are 1:20 scale. In the shot from the back, you can see the problem with my access hatch opening, I considered some kitbashing but the siding, shingles and most Pola components are very bulky. Yes, I definitely won't put them next to each other.

Any suggestions, comments, photos of your solutions? Or advice - don't worry, be happy? Thanks......


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In HO "Forced Perspective " is used, basically using N scale buildings behind HO one to give the impression of depth to the scene. Things look smaller the further away they are.
Depending on space available group the larger ones together and put the smaller ones on a raised platform so that they are in the background.
If the opening is not covered consider making a covering for the access hatch made out of polystyrene in a light weight frame.
Alternatively build a small hill in one of the corners and make a hillside community out of the smaller ones.
 

maxi-model

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The smaller scale Piko buildings are from their "Pleasantown" easy to build range. Their other, wide range of, kits are more in line with the mainstream Pola building for scale and proportion. I have both Piko ranges and Pola on my outdoor layout. Max
 

dunnyrail

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Clearly Piko have been setting their scale to match their predominantly Standard Gauge offerings where’s Pola have been looking to the narrow gauge around 3ft/Metre Gauge market. Another case of flexible rulers needed. As said forced perspective can help some so long as the buildings by the trains are at the near correct scale.
 
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playmofire

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In HO "Forced Perspective " is used, basically using N scale buildings behind HO one to give the impression of depth to the scene. Things look smaller the further away they are.
Depending on space available group the larger ones together and put the smaller ones on a raised platform so that they are in the background.
If the opening is not covered consider making a covering for the access hatch made out of polystyrene in a light weight frame.
Alternatively build a small hill in one of the corners and make a hillside community out of the smaller ones.
Without knowing about "forced perspective" I thought "put the little ones at the back", but I refrained suggesting it in case people thought I was taking the mick, but now I have source evidence; thank you.

(I remember my sister was once convinced she'd seen a field full of black sheep, they were actually cows in long grass! A sort of vertical forced perspective I suppose.
 

Gizzy

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Another vote for 'Forced Perpective' here.

I use it on my N scale RhB layout.

My Kato RhB rolling stock is 1:150 scale (as used in Japan), but the buildings and vehicles are European 1:160 scale, so slightly smaller.

Because I thought that 1:160 scale tunnels and over-bridges might be too small for the Kato trains, I've used Peco 1:148 scale UK ones which look fine.

Compromise is part of the art of Railway Modelling....

thumbnail_20230122_170808.jpg
 

stevedenver

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Dont worry be happy.

in perusing many of my rr books on narrow gauge, as well as visiting many old Colorado mining towns, the size variations are seemingly reflected in life. There were even large tents , with or without falsefronts, in boom towns.

it seems, less expensive , small wooden , 1 story+, false front buildings were common in the early development of towns, and, as wealth and population increased, larger brick buildings came about. First public buildings like courthouses and jails, schools, then retailers.

fire was common so wooden building didnt always last. But some did.

im not saying the piko ‘runts’ are totally appropos, but, rule 8. Bakery, small saloon, hat shop, etc., I like these, and they can be dressed up a bit. I use corrugated metal sheets for roofs on some. These pleasant town series btw, are not weather worthy. I paint the sides raw, weathered wood, and then a nice facade paint job. I suppose one could clad the sides with rough stacked stone plastic overlays, which was bery common in mountain towns.

to combine the two or 3 pola piko types is, imho, reflecting the transition Of a town from fledgling to established.

i actully like the contrast. I use my piko toy building to use in smaller spaces, side streets, small land lots, tiny businesses.

the pola larger wood buildings, well are larger. And painfully cookie cutter, especially, imho, signage.
These are simply oddly shaped, imho, narrow but very deep. I have seen somewhat similar buildings in Georgetown and Silver Plume Colorado. Awnings and signs can help a bit, i think. And, most importantly, paint, like matching the mullions to the frames, or, a more Victorian type of paint scheme. Also, changing roof colors from the monotone grey helps. I have even shifted the side stairs and extended as well as cut down back porches to the second story back door a bit to add interest.

Im generally a bit lazy, and resistant to extensive mods due to cost and durability, so i do little things, like paint. Grandt line 1:24 windows are great, really change the poloa/piko peek-a-boo windows, but cutting the walls and getting a plausible fit is either a pita, or, not possible without major work. Corbels and cornices help too.

add the piko 2 story brick buildings, and imho, youve got a prospering , late 1800’s western town.georgetown walk sept 2016 025.JPGgeorgetown walk sept 2016 018.JPGpiko brick 001.JPGIMG_0488.JPGgarden trains mountain town april 2012 007.JPGgarden trains mountain town april 2012 019 (2).JPGgarden trains mountain town april 2012 016.JPGgarden trains mountain town april 2012 006 (2).JPGgarden trains mountain town april 2012 027 (2).JPGgeorgetown walk sept 2016 027.JPGgeorgetown walk sept 2016 012.JPGgeorgetown walk sept 2016 033.JPGgarden trains mountain town april 2012 012 (2).JPG
 
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Paul M

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There's some thing amiss with the door in the first picture o_O
 

JimmyB

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There's some thing amiss with the door in the first picture o_O
The one on the first floor, or second story is you are American ;)
 

maxi-model

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I am looking at your pictures Steve and have trouble working out which are the real ones and which are the models. Great pictures and I love your town. Max

20170813_190136.jpg

P.S. That door, on the first/ground floor - I know we in western society have an obesity problem but isn't that a bit of an extreme solution.
 
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stevedenver

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There's some thing amiss with the door in the first picture o_O
Just wanted to show theres a prototype for everything…lol.

in Georgetown , Colorado, where the black and white building is located, architectural changes on historic buildings is limited, thus the second story closet of no return.

im certain it was an early fire house, given the bell.
fwiw theres another, with a tall hose drying building behind the second Georgetown firehouse, Alpine Hose Co. #2, as i recall. Its a commonly modeled HOn3 structure, fwiw.

The first black and white photo/building looks piko -ish to my eye, as does the brown and turquoise house, and even ‘Maxwell House’ with its pink and black trim, eg the piko ‘embassy’.

i just wanted to show this stuff so OP can better dig his diminutive piko false fronts.

thread drift, but the pleasant town stuff is , imho, ideal with the lgb FRR /chloe/olomano trains…one could have a smallish R1 layout, using these and thing would not look too bad, in a smaller area.
 
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David Palmeter

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I owe all of you who have very kindly and helpfully responded to my plea for help an update. The truth is, my workbench area needs an overhaul. When I moved the RR indoors my work area suffered and I finally got irritated enough to address that problem so I could work on projects like MR-603 conversions (PhilP) and suitable structures. Film at 11........
 

David Palmeter

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Alrighty then, it is 11 o'clock somewhere so here is the film (well, pixels, actually), taken from the 4 corners of the Frankfort Terminal Railroad, Basement Subdivision. For now, I have placed the 3 giant Pola buildings close to the giant coaling tower and kept the delicate Pikos in the original intended downtown (the pop-up opening will be covered). The Piko school is out in the country.
Since the entire railroad sits on a lot that scales 600' by 216', it is difficult to get enough separation for convincing perspective tricks.
Any new thoughts?



IMG_7517px4855.JPGIMG_7518px4893.JPGIMG_7520px4214.JPGIMG_7521px1024.JPG
 

idlemarvel

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You need something for the trains to disappear behind or into. Even something as simple as a flat panel with tunnel holes in, or a fake hill or mountain. It's important not to be able to see the entire journey of the trains to be vaguely believable.
 

Rhinochugger

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Without knowing about "forced perspective" I thought "put the little ones at the back", but I refrained suggesting it in case people thought I was taking the mick, but now I have source evidence; thank you.

(I remember my sister was once convinced she'd seen a field full of black sheep, they were actually cows in long grass! A sort of vertical forced perspective I suppose.
Many, many moons ago there was an article in Railway Modeller about a garden railway, and the owner / builder espoused the concept of model railway 'impressionism'.

It's a concept that I have used frequently in this large scale - it works for me.
 

idlemarvel

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You need something for the trains to disappear behind or into. Even something as simple as a flat panel with tunnel holes in, or a fake hill or mountain. It's important not to be able to see the entire journey of the trains to be vaguely believable.
I should have added, great craftsmanship with the layout build, boards, support tables etc You could think about having a lid for the access hatch then you could set the buildings back from the track. Or making the buildings semi-relief.
 

David Palmeter

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idlemarvel quote:
I should have added, great craftsmanship with the layout build, boards, support tables etc You could think about having a lid for the access hatch then you could set the buildings back from the track. Or making the buildings semi-relief.

Botched the quote thing, sorry. Anyhow, thanks for the very nice compliment. The build is a story for another day, but the summary is:

Grab the HO layout your 26-year-old grandson no longer enjoys,
Add the two scratch and dent interior doors and supporting cabinets from the similarly neglected slot car track,
Then, in a stroke of luck as lumber prices skyrocket, grab a bunch of Woodland Scenics precut rectangular module support kits and,
Four corner kits before they adjust prices by 50% (!!!),
Slap on 3/4" MDF to fill in the gaps,
Make a horrible mistake by covering the MDF with cheapo paper poster board with Woodland Scenics grass sheets glued on (warp city!),
And there you have it, track on grass and a million screws to keep the curly poster board sorta flat (and an access lid so misshapen it is too embarrassing to show).

But I sure do have fun running and switching (shunting)!


DSCN1388px1024.JPG2012-10-15 11.04.54px1024.jpgmodule_kit_stand_785-4790_big.jpgmodule_kit_stand_785-4791_big2.jpg
 

dunnyrail

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I rather like the G layout concept, looks to me like a Start to Station to Station round a reverse loop and back again. Entirely suitable for Timetable and Train Order running. Wagon cards and some waybills and you have yourself a real operating session railway, Tunnel or not. To my mind scenery to a certain extent is all in the imagination, for me Operating like the real thing is king.
 

idlemarvel

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Botched the quote thing, sorry. Anyhow, thanks for the very nice compliment. The build is a story for another day, but the summary is:

Grab the HO layout your 26-year-old grandson no longer enjoys,
Add the two scratch and dent interior doors and supporting cabinets from the similarly neglected slot car track,
Then, in a stroke of luck as lumber prices skyrocket, grab a bunch of Woodland Scenics precut rectangular module support kits and,
Four corner kits before they adjust prices by 50% (!!!),
Slap on 3/4" MDF to fill in the gaps,
Make a horrible mistake by covering the MDF with cheapo paper poster board with Woodland Scenics grass sheets glued on (warp city!),
And there you have it, track on grass and a million screws to keep the curly poster board sorta flat (and an access lid so misshapen it is too embarrassing to show).

But I sure do have fun running and switching (shunting)!


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Reuse and bargain are key words in my book. Good job!