PIKO kit bash loco or warehouse building

[POLO_Train]

I was watching some Germany club videos on youtube and saw that they kitbash a loco shed/warehouse together. I saw that and really wanted that to be on my future layout. I built up the walls and the upper sections but when I moved to my new house the wall pieces fell apart. This is part of my motivation to figure out the best glue to use to weld this outdoor plastic together post. I used the kit supplied UHU at the time and it was not adequate to hold the walls together. I believe now I need to implement metal bracing throughout the model to get it sound. Also considering going full weld with a heaver solvent with a full respirator to secure the pieces together.

Any ideas? or just start riveting and screwing together aluminum angle pieces on the top and bottom of the wall plates?
Also, I feel I need to consider is the low base pieces that are glued under the walls. I am almost considering to add an additional "L" brackets to strengthen it.
Big boi is always ready to help too, haha

Side note, does anyone know the material composition of PIKO building plastic? I lost the link to the LGB BNSF material science plastic makeup, but remeber it as an extremely hard to glue polymer.


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[dunnyrail]

I was watching some Germany club videos on youtube and saw that they kitbash a loco shed/warehouse together. I saw that and really wanted that to be on my future layout. I built up the walls and the upper sections but when I moved to my new house the wall pieces fell apart. This is part of my motivation to figure out the best glue to use to weld this outdoor plastic together post. I used the kit supplied UHU at the time and it was not adequate to hold the walls together. I believe now I need to implement metal bracing throughout the model to get it sound. Also considering going full weld with a heaver solvent with a full respirator to secure the pieces together.

Any ideas? or just start riveting and screwing together aluminum angle pieces on the top and bottom of the wall plates?
Also, I feel I need to consider is the low base pieces that are glued under the walls. I am almost considering to add an additional "L" brackets to strengthen it.
Big boi is always ready to help too, haha

Side note, does anyone know the material composition of PIKO building plastic? I lost the link to the LGB BNSF material science plastic makeup, but remeber it as an extremely hard to glue polymer.


View attachment 270609ts

Sorry Dad but that is not going to make me an adequate Kennel.

 

[Paul M]

Looks like it's going to stay by the dog and weight until he gets an answer
Sorry, that doesn't help you in anyway at all does it?

 

[PhilP]

Please keep Pup and solvents apart!

They react differently to us, if they walk on a spill it can be absorbed through the pads, and they have a different way of 'washing' things off to us..


I am not sure if Piko also changed plastics, partway through the life of their kits?
MEK, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Butanone (all the same thing) should do it??

if you can, find a chemical supply house, and buy a litre bottle of the real thing. Then decant into a smaller bottle for use, and store the main part somewhere cool. - The smaller bottle will evaporate less (smaller neck / hole) and make less of a mess if it should get knocked. Don't ask!

Luckily, my spill was in a garage, and not the house.. If the garage had been closed up for any length of time.. You could detect the smell for months.

 

[playmofire]

To reduce the damage from any knocked over bottle, stand it in a container a bit wider than the glue bottle and about the height to the bottom of the glue bottle's neck.

 

[POLO_Train]

Please keep Pup and solvents apart!

They react differently to us, if they walk on a spill it can be absorbed through the pads, and they have a different way of 'washing' things off to us..


I am not sure if Piko also changed plastics, partway through the life of their kits?
MEK, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Butanone (all the same thing) should do it??

if you can, find a chemical supply house, and buy a litre bottle of the real thing. Then decant into a smaller bottle for use, and store the main part somewhere cool. - The smaller bottle will evaporate less (smaller neck / hole) and make less of a mess if it should get knocked. Don't ask!

Luckily, my spill was in a garage, and not the house.. If the garage had been closed up for any length of time.. You could detect the smell for months.

Thanks!
I tried some M.E.K. Substitute from Lowes and seems to hold very well. I am guessing this is pretty close, it was dissolving the plastic. Hopefully, the walls will be rock solid after this stuff.

Now I need to order a respirator if I am going to be able to work next to that stuff, that is going to take a week to get in in these times.
I had my Garage Vornado fan on full next to me and I felt there was still too many fumes for my liking.

 

[1to3]

I use Piko's glue "Fix" stuff. It welds the plastic together real good. I go over each joint a few times and it seems nearly indestructible after years of use!?

The uhu stuff in the box is not recommended for outdoor use, I think it even says so in the instructions. Something about that glue being 'shelf-stable' if a shop buys the kit and has it sitting there for 10 years or something? The fix glue should be used within 1-2 years for potency like most CA's, so I guess they can't throw the better stuff in a box for sale.

 

[dunnyrail]

These days I drill all of the wall joints with a fine drill and pin the joints with some brass wire. Almost invisible, I know that Casey does the same thing as well. As for glue I use UHU Power and for good measure clear Silicone inside all the joints.