Piko Curved Point - Problems and Solutions

C

CoggesRailway

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Apologies if this was all done when I was otherwise occupied from garden railways!

My new layout actually relies upon the Piko curved point to gain two track access to the main Cogges Station.

However I have found, even with much fettling/adjustment it is a pesky thing. Essentially the length that there are no "inside chairs" to facilitate the moving blades to butt up to the main rails is too long. This means, ( i suspect especially in direct sun ), that the rails "bulge" inwards slightly meaning that some stock is out of gauge. I found that GRS and LGB wheelsets were fine but Bachmann with cruder/fatter flanges rode up and derailed- fatter flanges meaning that the inside rail to inside rail was too small like 41.5mm. I have resolved by drilling the outer side of the rail bottom/foot and pinning the rails to the correct alignment (to the plastic web and the decking in the ballast below). Everything now runs as smooth as silk.

Anyone else had hassle? Be interested to know, and what your solutions were.
 
I don't recall anything about the Piko curved point but lots of discussion about their R5s with failed insulation and poor contacts. After some TLC which they ought to have had from the manufacturer they have been fine TOUCH WOOD.
Don't expect anything from PIKO 'customer service' I don't believe it exists.
 
Someone else had a question about Piko curved points recently Ian, and the response to that was also minimal?

I guess these are quite rare beasties! Shropshire boy has one I think and I read that Mike had repaired one last night for Sandy....
 
I've had mine down for over a year on a floating trackbed running out with a 4% downhill grade operating in all conditions,including snow. No problems encountered with Bachmann/Accucraft UK & US/IP/Carworks/GRS/Aristo' wheelsets. Strictly speaking this set-up should be breaking all the rules and causing loads of trouble but it doesn't . Does yours have some sort of manufacturing defect ?

Must admit that the inside moving point blade does not sit flush with the rail when hard up against it. Not enough curvature at the end ? I always thought that might be a source of problems but none yet. Notice that the hairpin spring is a bit frail and the little push-fit plastic point "lever" went missing within a short time. Electrical conductivity is good.

Max.
 
Thanks guys... i think Maxi is right the manufacturing of the blades looks like it depends on which Chinese chap was on shift with the grinder that day! i lithium greased the contacts to stop corrosion, and yes the plastic lever is useless!
But mine definitely was out of gauge as the rail described a different arc to the plastic web underneath. I could have taken it back, but it was down and I preferred to fix it.

Mike- if you read this what did you fix?
 
just repaired a set, no contact on the frogs.crome strips..
 
I must agree, somewhat, about Piko's technical service. In my case I suspect it is more a matter of engineering though. I wrote to Piko about their supplementary switch not having a particularly good grip on the switch drive. Or is it the other way around. Anyway, Jonathan Meador wrote back to tell me that he wasn't very happy with the connection, and that some other chaps have used Zip Ties to hold things together. It worked for me, but wouldn't you think that a little bit more thinking should be going into making a better connection between the SD and the SS ?
 
See this is what happens when you go off the radar for a while.

Two reports of a problem I have experienced myself a while back, anyhow hope this is of some help.

http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=276595&high=hasty

Topic started by young Phil, and a link within to my problem a year ago.
 
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