Piko BR80 to RC

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Looking to converting to RC....confused anyway but more so when I read Riks site about subject......it appears to run on 3 batts @ 3.7V.........My BR80 only crawls on 12V...requires 14 -17V to operate at sensible looking scale speeds .......
What is the voltage rating for these motors ?? Currently running tracks dc and have three lines working smoothly after many hic-cups but thought a dabble into RC would be interesting......looking forward to usual great advice.....Regards Mardy.
 
Hi Mardy
I suppose it depends on what sort of speeds you want to run your trains. Most track power locos are designed to run off 24v, but I find the nominal 11.1v produced by three li-ions to be more than sufficient. However, my railway represents a narrow gauge railway, where top speeds are never more than 12mph. Clearly, if you want to run mainline expresses, the you'll want a higher top speed. No reason why you can't put four (or even 5), li-ions in series to give you 14.8v or 18.5v if you want a higher top speed.

Incidentally, people often ask what sort of running time I get from li-ion batteries. I've just been running one of my locos continuously while we had visitors. She ran for 8 3/4 hours non stop pulling 3 bogie coaches and a van on three 18650 2.3Ah li-ions, and they still have 11.32v of charge! Will run her again today to see what her total runtime is; I had to stop her last night as it was getting late.

Rik
 
Morning Rik...you are up bright and early....thanks for reply......will do a more thorough check on track V tomorrow......and will be reading up some more of your web site....Regards Mardy...... Mal R.
 
mardy said:
Morning Rik...you are up bright and early....thanks for reply......will do a more thorough check on track V tomorrow......and will be reading up some more of your web site....Regards Mardy...... Mal R.
Click to expand...
I love light summer mornings and evenings. Can't bear wasting sunlight (we don't see it that often over here! :cool: :) )

Rik
 
For the two switchable battery/track power DCC locos that I've converted, a 2095 BoBo and a Sachsen IVk, I use 14.8v lith-ion packs - a 5.2Ah pack in the BoBo and a 2.6Ah in the IVk (due to less available space). Both happily run for hours, I've never yet run either flat during a running session. And before anyone panics, by "flat" I mean to the point where the built-in protection board in the battery pack shuts it down!
I find 14.8 volts is PLENTY to get a good maximum running speed, it's certainly as fast as I would ever want to run them.

Jon.
 
I think you will find the Piko loco's need a higher voltage for a similar speed to the LGB offerings..

The speed of the BR80 could also presently depend on any electronics that are in the loco already, of course..
 
PhilP said:
I think you will find the Piko loco's need a higher voltage for a similar speed to the LGB offerings..

The speed of the BR80 could also presently depend on any electronics that are in the loco already, of course..
Click to expand...
Piko motors are not the same as LGB use, so it is perhaps not surprising that they want a bit more
 
PhilP said:
I think you will find the Piko loco's need a higher voltage for a similar speed to the LGB offerings..

The speed of the BR80 could also presently depend on any electronics that are in the loco already, of course..
Click to expand...


I've found that my LGB Porter, Daisy, needs to have the throttle button on my G Scale Graphics Railboss 4+ pushed several more times in order to get her moving. I don't believe these Porters have the same seven pole motors that the rest of LGB's locos enjoy.
 
Correct - the 'Toy Train' range use simpler mechanisms.
 
As expected a wealth of information from all....keep it coming......I'm branching out in another learning curve........just heading downstairs to set up and check more thoroughly on a couple of locos.........one of my Grandees (into cars & planes) is bringing over some lion batts so will be able to get a better idea.........regards all , Mardy.
 
Just had a good play around with voltmeter instead of going like proverbial and usual 'bull at the gate method'............Unit in pic actually moves off at 5.6V but needs 6.4 to comfortably climb gradient.....10 / 11V looks sensible over all.........this loco is one of three with Piko BR80 motors and is used with track cleaning unit so need a bit more sting pushing same.......will consider trying 14.8 V set up...........
 

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Don’t forget that in real life the BR80 was limited to 45 kph.

I use NiMH, and have found that 10 batteries, ie 12.5 V is fine in my two Piko locos, both of which are however diesels.

Also, don’t forget that some of the common ESCs we use don’t like more than about 15 volts, while some designed for model aircraft seem to max out at about 8v. It’s not worth frying one. How, do I know? Guess......
 
OK I have bitten the proverbial bullet with a basic RC unit per Tony at RCS>>>>>have installed in tender of li'l hauler loco but driving a Piko BR*80 motor unit in a hashed up Bachmann body.....pic attached....have left wires long in case of cxck-ups.....don't know if you can tell much from pic....but a couple of qu's.....all parts in there next step connect to loco.....are things jammed in too close ? is more ventilation required ? coal cover blue tacks over........do I connect to loco to 'bind' (very vague at this stage ..may need further advice).....heading off now to start on loco.......Regards all Mal R.
 

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Looking good Mal.
Jammed in is usually OK.
The ESC can handle up to 10 amps with a 3s pack. I doubt that rig will draw much more than 1 amp.
The loco does not need to be connected to bind the Tx and Rx together. Don't forget to remove the bind plug once bound.
You will need the loco connected when you set the centering on the VIPER ESC.
Don't forget to charge the battery before trying to actually use it. The battery only has a surface charge so the charger can detect it correctly.
 
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Thanks Tony....re batt......I read you need xtra care with these.....Ok , there is a fuse in the switch board ...what about charging in this set-up...is this pack controlled somehow?........ or do I need to manually check with volt meter ? I plan to fit a testing point on rear of tender with charge socket and switch.. will read up a bit more re bind and centering so will wait until loco is set up..........
There are 2 leds connected via transistor direct from the power posts in the drive motor......would they still work with the new power leads ? otherwise I can rewire with a 9V batt. Mal R.
 
Mal.
The fuse on the switch pcb assembly is in series with the battery pack.
Additionally the pack has a protection pcb built in. Which is why they are expensive.
No extra fuse needed. Ne need to read the battery voltage. The charger switches off when fully charged.
The supplied 2.5 mm x 5 mm DC co-ax jack, is for taking the matching plug on the charger.

The existing lighting set up can stay as it is. Because the output of the VIPER-10-12 is PWM, the lights may come on a little earlier.
 
Tony Walsham said:
Looking good Mal.
Jammed in is usually OK.
The ESC can handle up to 10 amps with a 3s pack. I doubt that rig will draw much more than 1 amp.
The loco does not need to be connected to bind the Tx and Rx together. Don't forget to remove the bind plug once bound.
You will need the loco connected when you set the centering on the VIPER ESC.
Don't forget to charge the battery before trying to actually use it. The battery only has a surface charge so the charger can detect it correctly.
Click to expand...

Mornin'. Tony.

tac
 
"Sucks Eggs" Really interesting couple of days......have to replace a faulty point (beyond repair now) but successfully fitted out first RC and worked out first rate.........good range of speeds and loco will pull up gradient no problem with extra rolling stock........top section of track runs through a 12" deep culvert for 3 metres and appears no problem with signal while out of sight......
Info please re batt charger......green led when switched on....flashes while charging...... ????? Red led charged ???.............Mal R.
 
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