PIKO BR80 LIghting problems

[Dave Hub]

Hello all.

I come pleading looking for help to stop me going nuts.

The background:
I have 2 PIKO BR 80 motor blocks, which I am going to use for COCO diesel bogies. When you buy these they come with no instructions and nothing to attach the pins for electrics. Having recently done my LGB LCE train I kinda figured I'd need wire between some of these pins. Not having a clue which with a bit of trial and error I got there. on the photo below where I have put the black lines indicates which should be joined. This is S1 to M1 and, S2 to M2. Simples.

So after testing, both motors ran. I then built a frame for the side frames and started to think about LEDs for the front of the loco.

I thought it would have been a case of just cut one of those wires and add appropriate resistors and led facing the correct direction. Well firstly I tried 2 LED in series tested in both fwd and reverse and nothing happened, no power to wheels, or to LED. I tried making a simple set up with 1 resistor and 1 LED, This gave me light, the LED lit BUT the wheels would not turn! I attempted the single LED in various other configurations and got nothing at all.

The LED I'm trying to use are 3 - 3.6V warm white 5mm and the resistors came with them for 12V power source.
If any one knows how to get lights and wheels moving I'd be very appreciative.

 

[Spule 4]

I would track down the acual pins with a VOM for better understanding to their function. My guess from the markings, that the two innner ones are for the motor (showing routing through M) and the outers are the pick ups from the respective sides of the track.

Then IF this is true, the question is, does there need to be a jumper between the track and motor posts (I would assume so, I assume this is the isolation for DCC installation) for any and all operation?

Then, IF this is true, depending on the routing of the wiring for the motors, make your leads that connect the two "bogies" and from track to the motors.

Then IF this is true, tie your LED lighting to the track output posts only, as having a LED (diode) between the track (pick up) and motor could give the situation you describe (runs one way, not the other).

 

[whatlep]

Hi Dave

You need to have M1/S1 and M2/S2 connected at all times on analogue and take feeds from those connections for all other purposes. In other words, you need two sets of wiring which look like a "Y" with the two upper bits of the "Y" connected to M1/S1 and M2/S2.

If you are going DCC, all four pins must be connected independently to the decoder. Piko wire their locos differently to LGB, with track connections outermost and the motor pins innermost.

If you do as above, you will effectively have two free leads from the track at track voltage. Connect your LED(s) across that connection and find out which way makes the LED light up in the direction you desire. Note: there are two ways possible and it will invariably be the second way which works the way you want!

 

[Dave Hub]

Ok thanks for tthe reply chaps,

I have tried both methods mentioned and am still having poblems!

Garret: I had no movement or illumination upon trying it your way, with the LED facing either way.

Peter: See photo below, This shows how you said to try it and as the photo shows the LED is lit nice and shiny. Unfortunately the motor does not turn when the said LED is lit. If I remove the LED and join the wires the the motor block powers up and will move quite hapily!

My conclusion is I don't know enough about electronics, so if any one knows why the LED being lit stops the train from moving then please put me out of my misery!

 

[muns]

Dave

Try something like this. There is an additional diode in parrallel with the LED to protect it when it is not illuminated (you may get away without it).

 

[wpandyr]

The LED should be in "Parallel" with the motor not "series"

 

[Dave Hub]

Ok I'm there, its only taken me all day, and you lot about 10 minutes, following Mikes diagram it works there is light at the end of the proverbial G scale tunnel.
for some reason by bridgeing the 2 circuits it make the light come on and allows power to the motor.
Now I know how to get 1 led to light its now time to wire up my 5 in series and give the beastie some serious night vision.

I'd like to express my thanks to all those who know more than me and for helping the electronically challenged amongst us.

P.S. I'm a happy bunny.

 

[whatlep]

Dave

Looking at the picture, you haven't done what I wrote (or probably I confused you). Both LEDs go from S1 to S2. Each one needs to be oriented the correct way round to light in the correct direction.

Clear now?

Cheers :callme:

 

[Gareth]

Hmm all very interesting thinking of using these blocks for a project myself. Now dare I ask Dave what are you building I am very intrigued no just nosey !!

 

[Dave Hub]

quote=Gareth]

Hmm all very interesting thinking of using these blocks for a project myself. Now dare I ask Dave what are you building I am very intrigued no just nosey !!
[/quote]

All I can say is: "If I told you I'd have to kill you"

No really its the bogie of the ML4000 hydraulic loco kit. as soon as I get the lighting sussed this week I'll be posting pics.

 

[whatlep]

Now I know how to get 1 led to light its now time to wire up my 5 in series and give the beastie some serious night vision.

P.S. I'm a happy bunny.

Dave

You'll be a lot happier bunny if you wire each LED and resistor combination in parallel across S1/S2, not in series with each other. Trust me!

 

[Richie]

quote=Gareth]

Hmm all very interesting thinking of using these blocks for a project myself. Now dare I ask Dave what are you building I am very intrigued no just nosey !!

All I can say is: "If I told you I'd have to kill you"

No really its the bogie of the ML4000 hydraulic loco kit. as soon as I get the lighting sussed this week I'll be posting pics.
[/quote]

Nice to see you,ve started work on your Rio Grande ML4000Have been doing away with some of my "S" bends on my line so running larger locos should be easier your be very welcome for a test run Dave

 

[Spule 4]

The LED should be in "Parallel" with the motor not "series"

What I tried to explain above but apparently trying to do so with only 4 hours of sleep that did not go well!!!8|

Think of an LED as a check valve, current will flow one way, not the other. In a schmatic, they are often shown as ->l- , with a LED having the same symbol with two arrows pointing away (light).
Edit: five stars to wpandyr