Piko BR24 [External Link]
- Thread starter muns
- Start date
Not sure how different the sounds are but they have produced a different sound file for the BR24.
There is an article on the BR24 sound decoder installation in the latest Massoth newsletter - only the German version at present, no English translation yet, but as you can copy-and-paste from the pdf it's easy enough to run it through Google Translate; they have this to say about the actual sound files:
"We currently supply in the new sound project for the series 24 of Piko. The sound is based on the principle of the BR 64. The new sound includes two new not previously used an end announcements, as the bursts of steam have been optimized. Of course, this new sound project for the BR 24 also used in the new BR 64."
So really, no difference between the two locos.....
The text of the installation article is this (all copyright Massoth, of course, no infringement intended by copying it here):
"Two weeks ago Piko started the extradition of the new BR 24 of the Deutsche Bahn. For this new model locomotive we have a passive sound project on our proven eMOTION XLS sound decoder in the program. Today we would like to introduce and demonstrate the very easy installation of the decoder.
For digitizing the first Loktender must be opened, here is the installation space for the decoder, as is already a speaker breakdown available.
Once the water tank cover was peeled upward, the use of coal can be pushed out to the front. Thus, to open the tender no screw must be loosened.
The existing electronics on the tender ground is no longer needed. The there the connected cables are gradually connected to the decoder. In the following assignment is to watch out for: GL + (White), GL - (gray), Mot + (red), mot - (blue), + 24V (black), LI-V (yellow), LI-H (yellow) FA1 (green).
Now on the speaker mounting space of the speakers that came with is mounted. After a first functional test of the Tender is completely re-assembled.
Please also note our new MASSOTH TV Episode 23 24 presents the sound of the BR."
So, sounds like a pretty simple job. Hope that may be of some use?
To download the newsletters, go to the Massoth site and select the GERMAN language version (click on the German flag) then go to "newsletters" in the main menu. Because of the slightly weird way their site works, I can't post a direct URL for it. Some newsletters are also available on the English version oif the site, but only the few (seemingly random?) issues that they've done an English translation on so far.
Jon.
"We currently supply in the new sound project for the series 24 of Piko. The sound is based on the principle of the BR 64. The new sound includes two new not previously used an end announcements, as the bursts of steam have been optimized. Of course, this new sound project for the BR 24 also used in the new BR 64."
So really, no difference between the two locos.....
The text of the installation article is this (all copyright Massoth, of course, no infringement intended by copying it here):
"Two weeks ago Piko started the extradition of the new BR 24 of the Deutsche Bahn. For this new model locomotive we have a passive sound project on our proven eMOTION XLS sound decoder in the program. Today we would like to introduce and demonstrate the very easy installation of the decoder.
For digitizing the first Loktender must be opened, here is the installation space for the decoder, as is already a speaker breakdown available.
Once the water tank cover was peeled upward, the use of coal can be pushed out to the front. Thus, to open the tender no screw must be loosened.
The existing electronics on the tender ground is no longer needed. The there the connected cables are gradually connected to the decoder. In the following assignment is to watch out for: GL + (White), GL - (gray), Mot + (red), mot - (blue), + 24V (black), LI-V (yellow), LI-H (yellow) FA1 (green).
Now on the speaker mounting space of the speakers that came with is mounted. After a first functional test of the Tender is completely re-assembled.
Please also note our new MASSOTH TV Episode 23 24 presents the sound of the BR."
So, sounds like a pretty simple job. Hope that may be of some use?
To download the newsletters, go to the Massoth site and select the GERMAN language version (click on the German flag) then go to "newsletters" in the main menu. Because of the slightly weird way their site works, I can't post a direct URL for it. Some newsletters are also available on the English version oif the site, but only the few (seemingly random?) issues that they've done an English translation on so far.
Jon.
ummm, reading that think even I should be able to do that installation when my decoder arrives from Mark...... but I'll probably have Stockers looking over my shoulder to make sure I'm doing things correctly......
Keith - a quick question about the chipping of your BR24.... I finally gave way and ordered one (from Germany of course), and like you sourced an XLS from Muns.... I hope to have both here by the weekend, ready to do the install. Obviously I'll be following the instructions that I re-posted above from the Massoth newsletter, but just one question as you've already tackled it - with the two lighting wires, LI-V (front) and LI-H (rear), which according to the instructions are both yellow.... are these identified as front and rear where they connect to the original Piko circuit board, so it is easy to tell which one goes to which terminal on the XLS? I haven't been able to find a photo of how the original factory board looks before it is disconnected and taken out....
Any advice or tips from your experience?
Thanks!
Jon.
Any advice or tips from your experience?
Thanks!
Jon.
Forgive my barging in but I've recently installed Massoth decoders in three Piko Locos.
I've found my way round the instructions and my interpretation of page 14 of the BR 24's Piko instructions is that the front light negative is yellow, the rear light brown with the common positive black.
http://www.piko-shop.de/is.php?id=13250
I've found my way round the instructions and my interpretation of page 14 of the BR 24's Piko instructions is that the front light negative is yellow, the rear light brown with the common positive black.
http://www.piko-shop.de/is.php?id=13250
Thanks for that, Neil!
Very handy to be able to look through the manual for a couple of days while I wait for my loco to arrive.....
So the Massoth instructions may be a little off when they list both front and rear lights as yellow wires!
Jon.
Very handy to be able to look through the manual for a couple of days while I wait for my loco to arrive.....
So the Massoth instructions may be a little off when they list both front and rear lights as yellow wires!
Jon.
I may have another question or two at the weekend, once I have loco and decoder here in front of me! 
Jon.
Jon.
Jon,
Can't remember off-hand what I did but as a Massoth Power Cap Maxi is on its way to me I'll be opening up the loco tender again when the package arrives so will find out what I did.
I've not run the loco here but Alan (Stockers) test ran (and checked my wiring!!) on his layout (see video on his thread) and suggested that a Power Cap Maxi might be a good idea.
Keith
Can't remember off-hand what I did but as a Massoth Power Cap Maxi is on its way to me I'll be opening up the loco tender again when the package arrives so will find out what I did.
I've not run the loco here but Alan (Stockers) test ran (and checked my wiring!!) on his layout (see video on his thread) and suggested that a Power Cap Maxi might be a good idea.
Keith
Thanks Keith - Alan (Stockers), if you're reading this, did Keith's loco exhibit any pickup or continuity problems that would call for a PowerCap to be fitted? My BR64, which is essentially the same loco (at least drivetrain-wise) has never shown any problems of this kind, and I wouldn't expect any from a loco with this number of wheel pickups and the decent new plated wheels...?
Thanks in advance,
Jon.
Thanks in advance,
Jon.
Jon,
Alan advised that there were continuity problems with the loco and therefore suggested a power buffer. The power buffer arrived from Muns today and has just been fitted - just wish that Piko would make their wiring an inch or so longer ...... or I had more nimble fingers.
I've not fired up my Massoth Central Station for at least three years but now that I have a 25ft piece of track (leading to the great outside) in the shed that Alan is building plan is to give the loco a short run tomorrow once Alan has arrived but before that I've got to remember how to use the Massoth Navigator......especially as I just got used to using the Roco Z21 on my OO/HO layout.
With regard to your original question both the front and rear light wires are yellow....but its easy to work out which wire comes from the front light and which wire comes from the back light.
To make sure I got the right wires in the right holes on the decoder I made a simple wiring diagram and, taking the +24v hole as the top of the decoder, the front yellow wire goes in the third hole down whilst the rear yellow wire goes in the eighth hole down (or the second hole from the bottom).
Alan advised that there were continuity problems with the loco and therefore suggested a power buffer. The power buffer arrived from Muns today and has just been fitted - just wish that Piko would make their wiring an inch or so longer ...... or I had more nimble fingers.
I've not fired up my Massoth Central Station for at least three years but now that I have a 25ft piece of track (leading to the great outside) in the shed that Alan is building plan is to give the loco a short run tomorrow once Alan has arrived but before that I've got to remember how to use the Massoth Navigator......especially as I just got used to using the Roco Z21 on my OO/HO layout.
With regard to your original question both the front and rear light wires are yellow....but its easy to work out which wire comes from the front light and which wire comes from the back light.
To make sure I got the right wires in the right holes on the decoder I made a simple wiring diagram and, taking the +24v hole as the top of the decoder, the front yellow wire goes in the third hole down whilst the rear yellow wire goes in the eighth hole down (or the second hole from the bottom
).
Thanks Keith! The note about the wiring is very useful. 
Hmmm... Alan, if you're reading this, could you elaborate on the continuity problems with Keith's BR24 please? As I mentioned earlier, and DR confirmed, the drivetrain is the same as the BR64 and I've had no trouble with my model of that loco.
Jon.
Hmmm... Alan, if you're reading this, could you elaborate on the continuity problems with Keith's BR24 please? As I mentioned earlier, and DR confirmed, the drivetrain is the same as the BR64 and I've had no trouble with my model of that loco.
Jon.
I found the electrical pick up to be a bit limited. to say it didn't work would be over stating it - but it was not good.I even got the track cleaner out 
with little improvement. I have an elderly mallet with worn through to the brass wheels. It runs reasonably when the wheels and track are cleaned but hesitates when the evening dew arrives. The BR24 was a bit like this. i metered through all the wheel pick up contacts and they all worked. A little four wheeler was running perfectly at the same time.
My guess is that the chassis is extremely rigid in the vertical plane ( it flexes sideways a lot as the chassis bends - its a 4 and a 2 wheel unit to make up the six drivers). On one R3 point, which is not as level as it could be, the middle wheel and skate were on the plastic frog and both outer wheels were clear of the rail!
Anyway, Keith put the power cap in yesterday and i have just amended it to digital only running and set the over run timer - CV129 ( I used 100).
It was running brilliantly earlier this evening - dead slow, point frogs, grubby track. On my dead siding, it did about 7 feet before stopping and the sound continued for ages after that.
Power buffer - It does exactly what it says on the tin.
with little improvement. I have an elderly mallet with worn through to the brass wheels. It runs reasonably when the wheels and track are cleaned but hesitates when the evening dew arrives. The BR24 was a bit like this. i metered through all the wheel pick up contacts and they all worked. A little four wheeler was running perfectly at the same time. My guess is that the chassis is extremely rigid in the vertical plane ( it flexes sideways a lot as the chassis bends - its a 4 and a 2 wheel unit to make up the six drivers). On one R3 point, which is not as level as it could be, the middle wheel and skate were on the plastic frog and both outer wheels were clear of the rail!
Anyway, Keith put the power cap in yesterday and i have just amended it to digital only running and set the over run timer - CV129 ( I used 100).
It was running brilliantly earlier this evening - dead slow, point frogs, grubby track. On my dead siding, it did about 7 feet before stopping and the sound continued for ages after that.
Power buffer - It does exactly what it says on the tin.
Thanks Alan - guess I'll give mine a go without a buffer, but bear one in mind if I do have any problems! As I said, my BR64 has shown no pickup difficulties so far, having been run on both indoor track (temporarily laid) and as a "guest" at a couple of quite different garden lines. If a buffer DOES prove to be advantageous, that'll be another sale for Muns!
I'm assuming you used the "big" powercap buffer rather than the micro one - on an XLS, is it a plug-in connection to one of the sockets, does it use the screw terminals or does it require any soldering to pads on the board?
Jon.
I'm assuming you used the "big" powercap buffer rather than the micro one - on an XLS, is it a plug-in connection to one of the sockets, does it use the screw terminals or does it require any soldering to pads on the board?
Jon.
Hi Jon,
Its a few quid - but it works well.
Yes, its the big power cap. Three screw terminals - dead easy.
Its a few quid - but it works well.
Yes, its the big power cap. Three screw terminals - dead easy.