Piko BR 24 37220: how do I get boiler off for repair?

  • Thread starter Dennis Thompson
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Dennis Thompson

Registered
23 Mar 2018
8
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Washington state, USA
First, thank you all for directing me to Piko's site for info. I ordered parts today. The only significant problem I have with this used locomotive is that a previous owner evidently removed the boiler and when replacing it, the main boiler, it does not sit properly over the lower section. i.e.: I need to loosen the main top portion to allow the lower to, "tuck," back into the upper. I've attached photo, (provided I did it right). See left vertical rivet line in photo; it shows the lower section sitting away from upper. So far, I cannot determine just how to separate these pieces. Work from top? Bottom? I've downloaded parts info from Piko, but it does not help....so far.
Tips appreciated; I don't want to damage anything.
Dennis
 

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PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
22,947
334
Tamworth, Staffs.
Piko are not as easy as LGB to work-out how to get them apart! :(:shake:

You will need to work from the bottom, and (almost) take the loco fully-apart. - I do not get many Piko loco's to work on, so am a little vague in the memory department.
Anyone else chip-in?
 
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Dennis Thompson

Registered
23 Mar 2018
8
1
76
Washington state, USA
Thank you. From the diagram, there must be 4 screws from the bottom, rear. Front maybe tips off...... Good start considering I had nothing at first. I wonder if anyone did a bash/mod and made a youtube........
 
Neil Robinson

Neil Robinson

Registered
24 Oct 2009
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N W Leicestershire
Thank you. From the diagram, there must be 4 screws from the bottom, rear. Front maybe tips off...... .
FWIW my interpretation of that Piko diagram is as follows.

1/ Remove four screws from under the cab, take note that there are two different lengths.
2/ Open smokebox door and pull out internal circular piece. Presumably this acts as a retainer for the boiler front.
3/ lift the boiler off vertically.

The boiler is shown as a single part both in that diagram and the parts list. I've no doubt that it's molded in two pieces and, as no screws are shown, these pieces probably clips together.
 
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Dennis Thompson

Registered
23 Mar 2018
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1
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Washington state, USA
Good start. You are right; 4 screws under cab. Two distinctly different sizes. Releases, apparently, the entire cab/boiler except for, "something," holding down the front. Looks stuck just below smokebox. Inside the smokebox door, I tried pulling on the inner, "wall," tab, (like a tongue), but while it acts like it is certainly a separate part, it refuses to dislodge. I'm using Neil's logic on this. However, if the previous owner put it back together with the mid boiler section not properly fitted, that front tongue might now be wedges tight. At least that's my thinking. I hate to yank too hard on it. Wish I could see a real photograph of that smokebox inner wall piece. No damage so far. Might need to think on this overnight and see what comes to mind or see if there are any other thoughts on this forum.
 
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Dennis Thompson

Registered
23 Mar 2018
8
1
76
Washington state, USA
Couldn't stand it; went back down. By pulling smoke wall tongue while lifting slightly, it came out. I'll try to attach photos in the hope it will help someone else. So, Neil, you are right: 4 screws under cab and bit of struggle with smokebox interior wall. In my photos, there are 2 print boards. When we tested this loco, my friend, (smarter than I), said sound acts like Revo fixed steam sound. Yet, the boards I uncovered today are not familiar to me. One mounted behind smoke box door looks to be factory attached. Piko board? Still learning.
 

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PhilP

PhilP

G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
5 Jun 2013
22,947
334
Tamworth, Staffs.
The board with the connectors on it, would appear to be just that. - A board for connecting the various items together.
Would there be switch(es) mounted on it, accessed from within the smokebox, by any chance?

The second board looks to be a bridge rectifier, or just a bank of diodes. - There may be some voltage regulation, definitely some smoothing.
This board may drive directional lighting as well?
 
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Dennis Thompson

Registered
23 Mar 2018
8
1
76
Washington state, USA
Solved. You're right with it, Philip. Just did some fast-finger texting to forum member Mike Williams, (who is really good with this stuff), and he identified the board attached as merely a junction point and the free floating little board as a regulator. So now all I have to do is reassemble the lokie correctly and I am finished. Future electronics can all be done inside the tender. Thank you everyone; hope some of this is helpful to forum members in the future.
 
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RkyGriz

Registered
13 Feb 2019
116
42
56
Silver Springs, Nevada
Hi. I don't know too much about this particular loco,but I know that the board in the second photo is a Piko #36143 5 volt voltage regulator for the smoke generator.
 
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Dennis Thompson

Registered
23 Mar 2018
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1
76
Washington state, USA
(Voltage regulator confirmation)

Thank you. I'm sure you are right and it's good to know the part number. I try to keep notes on this stuff with the locomotives.
 
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RkyGriz

Registered
13 Feb 2019
116
42
56
Silver Springs, Nevada
No problem. I didn't know if you knew what that little part was ,or does. I recommend calling Piko America at :877-678-4449 and talking to either Dan or Jonathan. They can help you with anything you need.
I just talked to Jonathan yesterday about the new sound system that I installed in my 0-6-0 Santa Fe switcher. He helped me to figure out why the new Piko #36220 sound kit was having issues. It turned out that I need a new transformer.
So,give them a call. I'm sure that they'll be able to assist you with your loco!
Andrew