Peco track and proto wheels

Jaime

Jaime

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Hi everyone

Anyone with experience in using finescale locomotives on PECO Streamline SL 800 (code 200) tracks ? I use my Marklin locomotives without problems , but now I want to buy a modelbex .
Thank you very much
Jaime
 

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I am pretty sure that they should be ok with Peco. I have had Merlin Live Steam locomotives that had their wheels to Gauge 1 fine scale standards that ran perfectly on Peco points. But as ever I would be tempted to contact Company or seller to check out back to back measurements.

Oh nice to see your superb buildings in a long scene.
 
Thank you so much for your answers , from modelbex told me that peco isn’t suitable for proto wheels. I think this is true for peco gauge G , I will ask him again, especially for the measurements.
Best regards
 
I'd be interested in the answer, my guess is that it's not the curved and tangent (straight) track, but the points/turnouts/switches. Fine scale wheels will need narrower flangeways, and in general more closely controlled tolerances. A lot of commercial sectional track is not well gauged.

The narrower treads on fine scale wheels will often let the wheels drop into the frog, or the flangeways being too wide will not allow them to correctly guide the wheelsets (controlled by back of wheel and flangeway) into the frog.

Will be waiting for the answer that has more "meat" than "just not suitable".

Regards, Greg
 
Answer from the owner of
Modelbex to Greg's comments:

Dear Jaime,

Right he is, points/turnouts/switches are the issue. And he is talking about Fine scale wheels. The wheels on the CC 6574 are Proto-wheels, i.e. finer than Fine scale wheels.
 
So, if you were to run on just track, and no points, no problem as long as you meet the minimum radius the loco will handle. (and your track is gauged accurately)

(although, not knowing the suspension system on the loco, your track probably needs to be very level and "smooth")

if you had some points on the mainline, you could probably tweak any that were "straight through" by shimming the flangeway width on the straight outer rail, and perhaps you might have to fill the frog a bit.

Trying to follow the diverging route would take an entire new set of points I would believe.

Another fellow here, Igor, is making a "problem" loco, and he realizes he may have to customize his turnouts, although he is having a completely different issue, so cannot compare the solutions.

Regards, Greg
 
Greg Elmassian said:
So, if you were to run on just track, and no points, no problem as long as you meet the minimum radius the loco will handle. (and your track is gauged accurately)

(although, not knowing the suspension system on the loco, your track probably needs to be very level and "smooth")

if you had some points on the mainline, you could probably tweak any that were "straight through" by shimming the flangeway width on the straight outer rail, and perhaps you might have to fill the frog a bit.

Trying to follow the diverging route would take an entire new set of points I would believe.

Another fellow here, Igor, is making a "problem" loco, and he realizes he may have to customize his turnouts, although he is having a completely different issue, so cannot compare the solutions.

Regards, Greg
Click to expand...
Thank you very much Greg, in this case the solution will come from the brand itself , they offered to change to standard wheels at no cost. For my indoor layout I would have had no problems , but not is the same for my garden layout , over the years have appeared some small unevennesses that would have complicated me.
 
I have been having similar questions rolling around in my head recently but for Gauge 1 fine scale rather than proto wheel standards, take a look at the G1MRA wheel and track standards I have found them useful, and when ordering wheels etc I always confirm with a supplier what standard they are working too to avoid getting wheels which won't go through my trackwork.

I build all my own track so sorry I cant help with your question about compatibility.
 
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