Paving around track.

tramcar trev

tramcar trev

all manner of mechanical apparatus...
Just playing around with these "setts" but even though they are the right height they are tooooooo large. Ther're real stone though 10mm sq x 6mm thick.... A tiler has 3 boxes left over from a job and asked if I wanted them but my enthusiasm has worn off due to the size....

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I also tend to think their authentic look outweighs their size. Is the track 3ft gauge? If so the blocks are roughly 9 inches square which, while big for setts, is about right for some modern "pavers". Can you minimise the size issue by only laying a single line of setts outside the rails and tarmac the rest?
 
Jumbo Belgium Blocks are roughly 12" x 10" x 4". We use them for curbing, and many others uses. They can be laid flat for paving. So I see no reason why you couldn't use the tiles you have.
 
As others have said I think the fact that they're real blocks outweighs the fact they're a touch on the large size. Will you be adding an inside edge/flangeway or just relying on the tiles being laid square?
 
They look good to me.:thumbup::thumbup:
 
Looks ok but if you could split some and stager the joints or even stager them legthways along the track might help move the eye line and give a smaller look...
 
Look fine for narrow gauge?

Nod's idea is a good 'un....
 
Assuming the trams are rougly 1:20 scale and as Belgian blocks are 12"X10"X4", i.e. 300mm x 200m x 100mm, blocks 10mm x 10mm x 6mm aren't too far out as regards surface area in scale if my maths is right - they would be 200mm x 200mm in real life, I think - if a little thick at 120mm.

Of course, if my maths is wrong, then this is rubbish.
 
jameshilton said:
As others have said I think the fact that they're real blocks outweighs the fact they're a touch on the large size. Will you be adding an inside edge/flangeway or just relying on the tiles being laid square?
Click to expand...
The tiles ( stones) come in sheets 300mm sq there is a pattern, light/dark rows.... My intent was to lay them individually 4 wide between the rails and leave a flangeway and then I could also lay around curves, this would be on a tile adhesive bed. NO GROUT instead I was put onto a product used for real paving which is a dry sand with addidtive. It's swept into the gaps and when a realistic appearance is created then misted with water and it "stabilises" to an elastic sort of thing allowing the warts and all on the mosaics to show....
 
steve parberry said:
Looks ok but if you could split some and stager the joints or even stager them legthways along the track might help move the eye line and give a smaller look...
Click to expand...
Great minds.... yes my thoughts after a sleepless night exactly and removing the pattern rows of light and dark will help. I have a diamond saw I bought at a $2 shop and it "sands" them easily to shape..... This is going to take some time but the effort may be worth the result at the end of the day.
 
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