over the joiner rail clamps

beavercreek

beavercreek

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I prefer the Hillman ones as I find that the two piece system (as opposed to Split Jaw three piece) does help to keep the rail in line when joining flexible track. Even the joiner can 'bend' out of true slightly if excess pressure is built up.
they are still available here: http://www.trainz.com/p-322467-hillman-332-01-split-jaw-rail-clamps-joiners.aspx

But they are both good clamps. As with any clamp, it is best to grease the bolts when screwing them up as this makes it nice and easy to do the screwing and also stops any oxidation that can cause the bolts to fracture when they need tightening again through the years due to rigours of heat expansion/contraction and vibration etc.....don't ask me how I know!
 
I prefer the Hillman clamps, but one word of warning regarding the over-the-joiner versions: I found that over time they are not nearly as reliable as the ones that connect directly to the track. So, like you, in the old parts of my layout I used the over-the-joiner because it was easier at the time, but now I've replaced them all. It really doesn't take long to pry off the slip-on joiners with a good screwdriver and pair of needle nose pliers and it will be worth it in the end. I take a battery powered dremel out to the layout with a little wire wheel and give the track a cleaning before I put on the clamps.

Keith
 
I had some Hillmans clamps many years ago. The screws are more robust than Split Jaw screws. That said, I do prefer the Split Jaw clamps as the three piece design makes it easier to join rails together, for me. I have removed all of the rail joiners from my turnouts, and substituted Split Jaw clamps in their place. The three piece design makes them simple to remove for any maintenance. I prefer the direct to the rail clamps as they hold better in my opinion.
 
I have both types found Hillman clamps to be better than Split Jaw but then again I use ones that clamp directly to the rail
I do have some clamps that I was given with some 2nd had rail that go over joiners I think they are called "conductor".
Basically it is a stainless plate with 4 screws that clamp over slip on rail joiners which make the joint really strong.
To apply them to already laid track you simply remove 2 of the screws, slide the plate under the track and re insert the screws.
They look a bit odd if left exposed but if painted black and covered with ballast the are barely noticeable unless you are looking for them.
 
Could you cut the long section of the Split Jaw in half to give 2 separate clamps, like the Hillmans?
 
nicebutdim said:
Could you cut the long section of the Split Jaw in half to give 2 separate clamps, like the Hillmans?
Click to expand...

I suppose you could but I don't think the resulting half length clamp would really be long enough to be an effect joiner. :)
 
I've just seen a picture of the Hillman rail clamps and misunderstood the difference. For some reason I thought of them being like the single power feed rail clamps and used in pairs, one on each side of the joint, not as 2 blocks with 2 sets of screws which they are. Doh! Scrap my idea of cutting them in half.
 
Here's a trick I use to prevent the rails from separating. With a pair of diagonal cutters (dykes as they are know to electricians), bite down on the lower part of the LGB rail joiner, being sure to have enough of the pliers jaws far enough in so that the rail is also bitten. This creates a dent or crimp in the rail joiner and the rail. Thus effectively locking the sections of track together. It works. I have had to make some changes to my track and it's a real bugger to get the sections, that I have crimped, apart.
 
Madman said:
Here's a trick I use to prevent the rails from separating. With a pair of diagonal cutters (dykes as they are know to electricians), bite down on the lower part of the LGB rail joiner, being sure to have enough of the pliers jaws far enough in so that the rail is also bitten. This creates a dent or crimp in the rail joiner and the rail. Thus effectively locking the sections of track together. It works. I have had to make some changes to my track and it's a real bugger to get the sections, that I have crimped, apart.
Click to expand...
But sometimes you need a bit of movement for expansion. Also, whilst a crimped joint wont slide apart, it can still corrode to the point of no power continuity.
 
I tend to only use the Over Hillmans indoors these days, I did in fact start with only these back in the late 90's. The Company was advertised for sale in Garden Rail about a year or so ago. Not sure whatever happened about that.

I have to say that with Peco until recently there was no choice but Hillman though I gather that Massoth are doing or to do Clamps for Cod 250 Rail.

If I were starting out anew I would use Massoth Exclusively, they are so much easier to fit and indeed unfit if you are doing alterations. Lets face it we all make changes to our lines at some stage or another.

As for the hassle of removing the LGB Joiners, well there was a superb link to a YouTube Vid not that long ago. Perhaps someone could repost that link?
JonD
 
stockers said:
But sometimes you need a bit of movement for expansion. Also, whilst a crimped joint wont slide apart, it can still corrode to the point of no power continuity.
Click to expand...


Even when my railway was track powered, I didn't rely on rail clamps for power continuity. Instead I soldered a copper wire jumper across every rail joint. As for expansion and contraction, the track will move in it's entirety. In the real world, welded rail expands and contracts in much the same way. This was engineered into the rail when railroads first started using welded rail. On curved sections of track, the entire track assembly moves. On tangent track the rail itself takes the stress.
 
I favour Massoth-type joiners without the LGB ones. However, Aristo track is fractionally narrower in the foot so the screw head doesn't grip quite as well, and the insulated joiners are slightly flexible, though not unsightly like the LGB version (unless you use them for reasons of visibility) which also lacks the Massoth's ability to connect electrically. The nuts can be easily dropped, though, and it's better, if fiddly, to arrange the little solder tags above the rail rather thanbelow. This also helps with the slight Aristo rail problem. I believe diehard Aristo track users don't have problems with their joiners losing conductivity because of the screw fixing. I admire their dexterity with those tiny blighters!
 
Hi,

I just wanted to share a little of our experience using Hillmans rail clamps.

We first started using over-joiner clamps, but echoing what others have already said, we found that these aren't really so reliable in the long run. We decided to use the normal style and just take out and replace bad rail joiners as we find them.

Our track has been a long time now and we are in the same position, we don't wish to disturb things or lift anything up. I use a small junior style hack saw and once I have located a bad track joint, I gently cut through the rail joiners I wish to take out. Once they are split in half, the jaws of the old joiners can be prised apart using a pair of needle nosed pliers and then can be gently pulled off with the track all still in place. The new rail clamps can then be put in without the need of having to lift any track. Ok, some ballast does get a bit disturbed around the area but a wee bit of top dressing soon hides this too.

It works for us, and we don't replace every joint at once. We gradually work our way around the garden, replacing all the faulty joints we find with new rail clamps. After a period of a few years now most of our older LGB rail joiners are all gone.

Just some food for thought....

Best wishes,
Gavin
 
I don't know if this has been posted before but Piko are introducing track clamps, check out the back page of the Piko 2015 catalogue , packs of 10
 
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