Operating point with cable system

D

davecar

Registered
I have just installed a new siding which is about 5 metres long on the edge of my patio by my fence.
I am pleased with the finished result but I had to take the point back a bit to the nearest straight as the track curves round various bushes and trees and a water feature. As a result I have to lean over the track somewhat and lean out in order to change the point. A simple solution is to leave a broom handle by the point and change the point manually. I have live steam so a motorised point is not really an option and I am not keen To go down this route.
As you know we are not really into simple solutions like a broom handle so I wondered about a cable system. My track is raised so I could lay the cable through small eye holes screwed to the side of the track. The problem I have is how to connect the cable to the point. My track is Piko and I have some spare LGB point levers but I don't think a cable could be connected on a pull/push system to operate the point.

Have any members had experience of such a system and can offer any advice/solutions?

Kind regards,

Dave
 
One of the most reliable set-ups I had for points was fishing line and a small weight hanging on it. Only of use for trailed points in my terminus, but it was virtually 100% reliable.

Perhaps you could adapt something similar to give you two way operation, remotely.
 
I gave up on electrified points long ago and operate all points via cable (bar 1 distant with switch hidden from Gt Grandees.....) curtain wire or firm plastic tube with inner wire to suit, simple loops or hook to fit points lever and aluminium triangle plates will get you around corners........still a bit dark this end to take a pic and I am heading to town but will see if I can get a pic taken later.....Regards Mal R.
 
davecar said:
I have just installed a new siding which is about 5 metres long on the edge of my patio by my fence.
I am pleased with the finished result but I had to take the point back a bit to the nearest straight as the track curves round various bushes and trees and a water feature. As a result I have to lean over the track somewhat and lean out in order to change the point. A simple solution is to leave a broom handle by the point and change the point manually. I have live steam so a motorised point is not really an option and I am not keen To go down this route.
As you know we are not really into simple solutions like a broom handle so I wondered about a cable system. My track is raised so I could lay the cable through small eye holes screwed to the side of the track. The problem I have is how to connect the cable to the point. My track is Piko and I have some spare LGB point levers but I don't think a cable could be connected on a pull/push system to operate the point.

Have any members had experience of such a system and can offer any advice/solutions?

Kind regards,

Dave
Click to expand...

Hi Dave. I use fishing line to operate two sets of points on my trailer layout. The points R1, are set permanently to the main route/s with manual switches as fitted to them. I made a simple bell crank for each point as the wire (fishing line) is at rightangles to the 'pull' of the point/s. To direct the 'wire' around curves, is use plastic tubing bent to whichever way I want to send the wire. The plastic doesn't rust, neither does the fishing line!

I haven't got around to fitting levers (after all these years) - I just use a wire loop on the end of the line to give it a tug (and hold it) until the train passes. This works fine for me. If you are interested, I'll take a pic or two in the morning to show my relatively crude, but effective operation.

I see Mardy was posting something similar as I was typing!
 
"Mick - always learning etc" I like that ......I recalled from back in the 30's my first Meccano set had triangle pieces that had many uses.......took a while but it was still there.........
 
4 shots of cable/points ....hope they give you an idea......some are just wire connected (actually old welding wire) and the shot up the track goes about 2 + metres. 4th shows cable fasteners...most important.
 

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mardy said:
4 shots of cable/points ....hope they give you an idea......some are just wire connected (actually old welding wire) and the shot up the track goes about 2 + metres. 4th shows cable fasteners...most important.
Click to expand...

Nice to see some more aluminium bar rail. Can you post some more pictures of the points in the last shot?

Double wire point mechanisms used to be fairly common on full size railways. They had less friction than conventional rodding, so could operate points further away from the signal box.
 
Melbournesparks said:
Nice to see some more aluminium bar rail. Can you post some more pictures of the points in the last shot?

Double wire point mechanisms used to be fairly common on full size railways. They had less friction than conventional rodding, so could operate points further away from the signal box.
Click to expand...


Layout is semi sheltered so I run on aluminium, lgb ,and Bach tinplate...have built 3 al points, this is the only one set up at present...other points are lgb...this point meets lgb point to another loop....copied idea from a chap in NZ and added my own style ....hope this pic is what you wanted.....Mal R.
 

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mardy said:
4 shots of cable/points ....hope they give you an idea......some are just wire connected (actually old welding wire) and the shot up the track goes about 2 + metres. 4th shows cable fasteners...most important.
Click to expand...

Yes, those triangles act as bell cranks. Wish our climate had longer (more than few hours) dry spells!
 
mardy said:
Layout is semi sheltered so I run on aluminium, lgb ,and Bach tinplate...have built 3 al points, this is the only one set up at present...other points are lgb...this point meets lgb point to another loop....copied idea from a chap in NZ and added my own style ....hope this pic is what you wanted.....Mal R.
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks, that's a clever idea using angle for the point blades. I've been making aluminium points too, but since we've all been working in isolation have developed quite different approaches to the same problems.
 
Melbournesparks said:
Awesome thanks, that's a clever idea using angle for the point blades. I've been making aluminium points too, but since we've all been working in isolation have developed quite different approaches to the same problems.
Click to expand...

I used angle on this set so I could fix on plasti-board hence one pivot and neater finish....still need to improve the cross-over point/vee...just hardwood and fill...does the job but could be better......the other sets made are awaiting modification with angle al.......
Hope a few more join in with further comments and ideas........Haven't visited any other sites since finding this one....love the chatter and banter I think we have a few wits among us..........that should open up discussion !!!!!!!!!!!! Regards to all Mal R.
 
Here's a pic or two of my inelegant system -

Sawmill Junction - main line straight ahead (as point is set for). Tug the 'wire' and it pulls across for the saw mill. Let go and it springs back for the mainline. Just a bit of soft steel wire connects the tie bar to the crank. The fishing wire is also connected by the same soft wire (and a bit of tape to cover up the connection!)....
'Wire' operated points (1).JPG

Sand House Junction - seen here set for the back straight (fishing line not under tension). Normally it is pulling against the operating spring for the diverging curve......
'Wire' operated points (4).JPG

The two tug loops - one on the left is for the Sandtower Junct. For the mainline it will be pulled over to the L/H cable clip and left there.
'Wire' operated points (3).JPG

Taking the operating 'wire' round the corner. Plastic tube salvaged from domestic cleaning bottles. In fact, nearly everything I use is repurposed.
'Wire' operated points (2).JPG

Hope it explains things.
 
Many thanks for all the helpful posts and pictures. You have certainly given me food for thought. I hadn't thought of using fishing wire. And some of the other suggestions - oh for a Meccano kit!
I think I need some sort of lever because at the moment the point just pushes in and out.

Pico (as opposed to PIKO which my points are) produce a plastic lever for g scale points. See link below

http://www.track-shack.com/acatalog/Peco-SL-928-Track--Large-Scale-Point-Lever-Peco-SL-928.html

Has anyone any experience of this type of lever? I was thinking that I could attach a cable or fishing line to the end of the lever.

Kind regards,

Dave
 
Last edited:
davecar said:
http://www.track-shack.com/acatalog/Peco-SL-928-Track--Large-Scale-Point-Lever-Peco-SL-928.html

Has anyone any experience of this type of lever? I was thinking that I could attach a cable or fishing line to the end of the lever.
Click to expand...

A mate of mine tried a couple of the Peco levers, wasn't overly impressed with their robustness as they're only plastic. Something in brass would be better, such as the Tenmille products perhaps? (no personal experience of these). Tenmille sell bell cranks too.
http://www.tenmille.com/Gauge1PointAccessories.html
 
Tenmill Point Levers work quite well, though the Throw is a bit limited. Certainly so for LGB plus doubtfull for Peco. However if used via a Bell Crank or a Straight Crank the throw can be adjusted by using different lengths from the Lever End to the Point End.
JonD
 
davecar said:
I have just installed a new siding which is about 5 metres long on the edge of my patio by my fence.
I am pleased with the finished result but I had to take the point back a bit to the nearest straight as the track curves round various bushes and trees and a water feature. As a result I have to lean over the track somewhat and lean out in order to change the point. A simple solution is to leave a broom handle by the point and change the point manually. I have live steam so a motorised point is not really an option and I am not keen To go down this route.
As you know we are not really into simple solutions like a broom handle so I wondered about a cable system. My track is raised so I could lay the cable through small eye holes screwed to the side of the track. The problem I have is how to connect the cable to the point. My track is Piko and I have some spare LGB point levers but I don't think a cable could be connected on a pull/push system to operate the point.

Have any members had experience of such a system and can offer any advice/solutions?

Kind regards,

Dave
Click to expand...
electric points I have 13 on my garden railway all over the garden
 
Many thanks to all contributors. I got lots of very helpful ideas and hints. I have now fitted a cable system to 2 points on my railway. I bought brake cable (inner and outer) from Ebay for £1.99. Fitted a small piece of wood next to the point and then used an L shaped bracket screwed in place on the wood. Bought some cable clips and secured the cable along the track. Now works well on a push/pull system and I am really pleased with it. It was a bit difficult getting the bracket in the correct place but I got there by trial and error. The first point I did was in an difficult place behind a tree so that added to the problem. Got there in the end and both points are working fine. Covered the mechanism up with microwave containers from the £ shop, painted black.

Thanks again for all the helpful advice. Couldn't have managed it without this forum.

Kind regards,

Dave
 
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