OcCré
- Thread starter KeithT
- Start date
tramcar trev
all manner of mechanical apparatus...
Good advice from Bob! You don't need it to get bright red you will find that as soon as it discolours in the flame that it has lost its temper...
KeithT
Hillwalking, chickens and - err - garden railways.
All helpful advice Bob and Trev - as ever, many thanks. 
I probably won't get a chance this evening but I hope to try the annealing tomorrow.
Today I have just done a little touching up of the paint on the frames with a view to assembling them later.
Next will be fitting the tender frames now that I have finished filling, sanding and painting the upperworks.
I probably won't get a chance this evening but I hope to try the annealing tomorrow.
Today I have just done a little touching up of the paint on the frames with a view to assembling them later.
Next will be fitting the tender frames now that I have finished filling, sanding and painting the upperworks.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
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I have the opposite problem! I bought some brass wire to make tender pick-ups for my BH fleet. Buying the K&S strips is OK but its often the postage that hurts, so being me (tight wad) I bought a coil of wire and that it is quite soft!. I know about annealing copper and alloys of, but how do you harden brass?
KeithT said:
I have the opposite problem! I bought some brass wire to make tender pick-ups for my BH fleet. Buying the K&S strips is OK but its often the postage that hurts, so being me (tight wad) I bought a coil of wire and that it is quite soft!. I know about annealing copper and alloys of, but how do you harden brass?
tramcar trev
all manner of mechanical apparatus...
Stretch it!.... Had a similar problem so I bit the bullet and bought a tube of beryilium copper springy wire....trammayo said:
bobg
Registered
Copper and Brass (Copper alloy) 'work' harden. That is they get harder the more they get distorted. This can happen even if the distortion isn't permanent, in other words, constant flexing towards its natural elastic limits (the point where the distortion becomes partially permanent). Beating Copper or Brass sheet will require constant re-annealing if it isn't to split or crack.
Aluminium, on the other hand, will just get harder with age. Try bending some sheet that has been laying round for ages, then try a new bit. The new stuff will take a nice sharp corner, the old, at no price. Ali will also work harden as do most metals.
Aluminium, on the other hand, will just get harder with age. Try bending some sheet that has been laying round for ages, then try a new bit. The new stuff will take a nice sharp corner, the old, at no price. Ali will also work harden as do most metals.
KeithT
Hillwalking, chickens and - err - garden railways.
Well, that WAS easy. Thanks guys!
All 18 strips done within 15 mins.
On re-examining the tender prior to offering up the brass strips I have decided that more sanding, filling and a re-paint will be needed. I might, just might, break out the airbrush bought some years ago and still sitting in its box. The thought of all the fiddly cleaning put me off but acrylics are so easy that I might take the plunge.
In offering up the strips I found a small error in the instructions. They indicate fitting the curved floor gratings either side of the tender front but, with them in place the bottom brass strips do not fit low enough. The gratings although white glued in place came off easily enough. Phew, anywhere else could have led to some expletives such as Flippin' 'Eck' and Flaming Nora'.
Thanks guys!All 18 strips done within 15 mins.
On re-examining the tender prior to offering up the brass strips I have decided that more sanding, filling and a re-paint will be needed. I might, just might, break out the airbrush bought some years ago and still sitting in its box. The thought of all the fiddly cleaning put me off but acrylics are so easy that I might take the plunge.
In offering up the strips I found a small error in the instructions. They indicate fitting the curved floor gratings either side of the tender front but, with them in place the bottom brass strips do not fit low enough. The gratings although white glued in place came off easily enough. Phew, anywhere else could have led to some expletives such as Flippin' 'Eck' and Flaming Nora'.
KeithT
Hillwalking, chickens and - err - garden railways.
One step forward followed by a small step backwards.
I have finished rivetting the smokestack. Fitting 48 pins around such a small diameter was a challenge. At least 2 pins in each row had to be shortened otherwise they simply bent and could not be inserted. There was quite a bit of sighting along the stack and repositioning to get them in line - more or less.
The bands around the stack are supplied as brass strip but looking at the scale1/1 version the strip looks too wide, brass wire might be more authentic in appearance, I shall see.
The step backwards involved the boiler strips, yet again. Two of them on the top did not have the correct gap between them in the end I decided they would have to come off. They came away easily and I concluded that I had probably caused the problem by fitting the lead strip for extra weight. Although little more than microns too thick it caused one strip to 'cock-up' which meant that it bedded onto the next strip at too flat an angle. I had tried easing the gap with a craftknife but it didn't work. After sanding the top edge of the leadstrip - good old Dremel clone, the boiler cladding has gone back and looks OK. Could perhaps be a touch better but That's it for me!
The tender frames are on and it will be filled in a couple of places ready to repaint. Time to brave the the airbrush.......... :-\
I have finished rivetting the smokestack. Fitting 48 pins around such a small diameter was a challenge. At least 2 pins in each row had to be shortened otherwise they simply bent and could not be inserted. There was quite a bit of sighting along the stack and repositioning to get them in line - more or less.
The bands around the stack are supplied as brass strip but looking at the scale1/1 version the strip looks too wide, brass wire might be more authentic in appearance, I shall see.
The step backwards involved the boiler strips, yet again. Two of them on the top did not have the correct gap between them in the end I decided they would have to come off. They came away easily and I concluded that I had probably caused the problem by fitting the lead strip for extra weight. Although little more than microns too thick it caused one strip to 'cock-up' which meant that it bedded onto the next strip at too flat an angle. I had tried easing the gap with a craftknife but it didn't work. After sanding the top edge of the leadstrip - good old Dremel clone, the boiler cladding has gone back and looks OK. Could perhaps be a touch better but That's it for me!
The tender frames are on and it will be filled in a couple of places ready to repaint. Time to brave the the airbrush.......... :-\
KeithT
Hillwalking, chickens and - err - garden railways.
KeithT said:Still no sign of the replacement driving wheel spokes from OcCré.
I was too quick to doubt OcCré, this morning I received a large package with a FULL set of spokes for the loco and tender together with several other components and a catalogue.
Brilliant service OcCré *****- it is not as if there was anything wrong with their product, I did the damage through clumsy assembly.
KeithT
Hillwalking, chickens and - err - garden railways.
Small update, if anyone is still looking; my airbrushing was rubbish. I had to sand it all off. The results of buying a cheap Badger airbrush I suppose. It sprays in two 'blotches' left and right of where I aim it. So, all sanded off once more and brush applied. I have mixed my own shade of green having looked long and hard at photos of the replica. It is still not perfect but I am beyond the point of no return now and am fitting the boiler bands. Pics in due course.
The motor assembly is proving tricky in respect of getting the worm and gear to mesh correctly. There doesn't seem to be enough clearance.
The motor assembly is proving tricky in respect of getting the worm and gear to mesh correctly. There doesn't seem to be enough clearance.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Sounds like you might have a fundamental fault with the "airbrush". Is it the type with a needle/jet with and "cone" over it, to adjust the spray width and volume. Or, the more basic type where you just have the air jet that draws up the paint thorough an un-jetted cone from a jar below where you can only vary the volume of paint being applied ? Check for any bent or damaged parts on either type.KeithT said:
Or it may be you need to filter or alter your paint mix in case there are some particles that are getting lodged in the "cone" partially blocking the paints flow (Some paints if not correctly mixed can clog this bit as well). Max
KeithT
Hillwalking, chickens and - err - garden railways.
Bob
I will try it but, next time.
As I have started fitting the boiler bands I daren't try to spray between them. ??? ???
Perhaps I might try a better airbrush, I have around 10 Panzer loads which need better camouflage than I could achieve with a paint brush.
I will try it but, next time.
As I have started fitting the boiler bands I daren't try to spray between them. ??? ???
Perhaps I might try a better airbrush, I have around 10 Panzer loads which need better camouflage than I could achieve with a paint brush.
KeithT
Hillwalking, chickens and - err - garden railways.
Slow progress but at least it is in the right direction.
Boiler bands and con rods fitted. I spent forever fiddling with two brass rods to connect the `little ends` glueing the brass retainers in place when after I had done everything I realised that I could have simply used a single length of brass as it is glued solid and there is no need for each assembly to operate independently! One aspect of the instructions which was decidedly unhelpful.
I know one thing - I positively HATE this camera, it is showing up blemishes I did not know existed. Whilst I knew that my firebox and smokebox tops weren`t the best I did not expect to see so many paint blemishes. >
Boiler bands and con rods fitted. I spent forever fiddling with two brass rods to connect the `little ends` glueing the brass retainers in place when after I had done everything I realised that I could have simply used a single length of brass as it is glued solid and there is no need for each assembly to operate independently! One aspect of the instructions which was decidedly unhelpful.
I know one thing - I positively HATE this camera, it is showing up blemishes I did not know existed. Whilst I knew that my firebox and smokebox tops weren`t the best I did not expect to see so many paint blemishes. >
