Nicki Frank s options??

[andyspencer]

Hi guys, so I've just bought a near mint used example of a blue N/frank S. First question, the loco has a 'D' sticker underneath and the box has a large 'D' sticker that has been added, ie not part of the main label - does this mean it was a factory install?
Both the loco and tender have a 50020 fitted. I've read all about them with the lack of EMF feedback, so they'll be coming out. One I hope to use in an Rhb trailer car. The other poss into an old stainz the youngsters can play with.

I intend to fit sound, so will be going for an ESU V4 as per my other locos. So do i fit the V4 in the loco with the speaker and fit a small driving decoder in the tender as well,
or do I remove the tender motor and just use it to pick up power so using just one V4,
or do I use the v4 to drive both motors?

My issue is the loco is only fitted with a 4 pin plug between loco and tender. 2 wires are needed for the tender lights and 2 are needed to link the pick ups. I'd still need another 2 for the motor and another 2 again if I put a speaker in the tender as well. Do the newer models come with a 6 or 8 pin cable between? And if so, would it fit the older models?

 

[Gizzy]

The D means it is digital and factory fitted with a decoder. These will be the 50020 pcbs you mention. I've heard these aren't the best decoder, the later 50021 being much improved.

I guess upgrading with a better decoder is the way to go, but I know nothing of the ESU kit. Others who have upgraded the N&F S would be better placed to advise....

 

[andyspencer]

Andy, the easiest way (But not the most economical) is to put the sound chip and speaker in the tender and a normal 55021 (or Massoth Equivalent) in the loco.
The 4 wire connection then ensures secure track power supply.
You could save money in the loco by using an ESU or Zimo chip.

I've not had the LGB 24265 in bits (Factory fitted sound), so I don't know the detail of how it works.......

Would you know how many cores are in the cable on the 24265? And is there just one cable between loco and tender?

 

[funandtrains]

The only 2 locos I've had with ESU decoders had the decoders give constant problems when running on MTS and I wouldn't touch them again myself!

 

[andyspencer]

The only 2 locos I've had with ESU decoders had the decoders give constant problems when running on MTS and I wouldn't touch them again myself!

What issues did you get steve? I'm running MTS 3 with both a universal remote and a Massoth Nav, currently no issues to report from the limited use I've had so far.

 

[funandtrains]

I think the issues are with MTS 2 but the issues where no all function buttons working correctly, smoke, lights and sound on and off getting confused and mixed-up.

 

[andyspencer]

I did run one of my locos on an MTS2, and yes, sound didn't work. Could only get the engine noise to start up, none of the extra noises. Never had any such issues on my 3 system.

 

[Zerogee]

Apparently LGB used up a lot of "left over" 55020 decoders to make some stock DC locos into "factory digital" ones, I have two that came like this - a green Rugen 0-8-0 and a black DR Mallett (which came with a ghastly - and faulty - lashup of a single 55020 and a 55030 booster). The Rugen received a Massoth L as a direct plug-in replacement for the 55020, leaving the factory-installed sound system alone, and the Mallet got an XL (again wired to the factory sound board).

My Nicki&Frank has (as far as I know - it came ready-done from another forumite) two decoders in it, an L in the loco and an XLS in the tender - you could almost certainly get away with an L and an LS, if you could get them). The advantage of two decoders in this loco is that you can fiddle with the speed characteristics as required to equalise loco and tender speeds, as the tender on this setup is prone to run faster than the loco with the attendant risk of wheelspinning and extra geartrain wear.
These are just some observations, afraid I have no experience with ESU decoders.

Jon.

 

[andyspencer]

Would it be possible to see a pic of the loco and tender draw bar area? Interested how they've added the extra cable. Being careful with money, I like the idea of one decoder, but as Jon mentioned, with different running speeds I don't want things wearing out...

 

[andyspencer]

Would it be a sillly idea to remove the motor from the tender? Does this loco really need 2 motors?

 

[Zerogee]

Would it be a sillly idea to remove the motor from the tender? Does this loco really need 2 motors?

Well, James' "Frank-to-tank" conversion runs fine without a tender at all, as of course does any other LGB tank loco using the 0-6-0 power unit. If your line doesn't have too much in the way of gradients or other difficult stretches, and if you're not going to need maximum-length trains, then I guess there is no reason that it won't work perfectly OK with only the loco motor; after all, it's only the same as running any other single-motor LGB loco with a small piece of rolling stock permanently attached. I would be tempted to keep the power pickup capability of the tender via the wheels, but remove the tender skates. That would reduce the cable connection to four wires (two power feeds back to the loco, and two wires for the tender rear light). Keep the removed tender motor as a spare, or if cash is tight then it should be good for £30+ if you wanted to sell it on.

Jon.