Nicki Frank S - Jerking / Speed Issues

curtis

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Hi folks,

I have two of the Frank S locos - one, the older 'original' LGB, and the other one of the Marklin runs (21261 and 24266). Both seem to have developed a jerking problem, which makes them sound rough when running. This is disappointing because they're two of my favourite locos. Oddly, I don't recall them *always* having this issue but a more recent development.

This topic has been touched on a couple of times on this forum.
And the problem stems from the loco and the tender running at different speeds. I've got some time over Christmas and want to look into them to see what I can do to remediate. If anyone has any wisdom before I start relearning what you've already learnt - it would be appreciated.

Some notes, the 21261 has two decoders (can run the loco and the ender independently), but the 24266 has a single decoder.
 
I would check the quartering of the wheel sets first Curtis, just in case it is a more mechanical issue.

Also, dirty wheels and skates, especially if these locos have been frequent runners....
 
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Gizzy beat me to it, late home busy with stuff. Quartering is always a look at if you get what I call ‘lumpy’ running.
 
The N&F S that I had finally turned out to have two problems. One was that one or both motors were not good anymore so ran at different speeds with one effectively holding the other back. The second problem was the connecting wire between the loco and tender where one strand had broken and was making intermittent contact. These two problems gave the same symptoms that you mention and were resolved by changing both motors and remaking the connector wire with new connectors - they 'bite' through the wire to make contact so easy to fit. If your loco and tender on one can be run independently then simply put them both on the track and see if they stay the same distance apart, for the older model (which I had) it is more a process of elimination. To be honest I find it doubtful that the quartering has altered on two locos at the same time. Do you have any other twin motor locos to compare with?
 
Cheers for this! I actually did check the quartering on one of them and adjusted it and it seems to be behaving fine now. Although, when running the loco and tender separately there is still a difference in speed - I put this down to the fact the loco motor has slightly increased friction from the running gear and third wheel.

The second one has a single decoder in the tender. The cable looks okay (I can't see any notable issue) but will do a bit more troubleshooting on it in the coming weeks with your insights.

Curtis
 
The cable looks okay (I can't see any notable issue) but will do a bit more troubleshooting on it in the coming weeks with your insights.
Mine looked okay when the loco and tender were coupled but when I removed the cable and flexed it I could see the break right behind the tender connector thus I mentioned the intermittent contact. I suppose a 'proper' test would be to put a multimeter into the sockets of the connectors then flex the wire. Also like I said I bought two new connectors then cut off the old ones then clipped the new ones onto the ribbon cable, if you do this make sure you have the connectors the right way up otherwise your colour coded wires will be the wrong way around.
I'm surprised that the quartering actually managed to move over time, obviously they don't build them like they used to.
 
Mine looked okay when the loco and tender were coupled but when I removed the cable and flexed it I could see the break right behind the tender connector thus I mentioned the intermittent contact. I suppose a 'proper' test would be to put a multimeter into the sockets of the connectors then flex the wire. Also like I said I bought two new connectors then cut off the old ones then clipped the new ones onto the ribbon cable, if you do this make sure you have the connectors the right way up otherwise your colour coded wires will be the wrong way around.
I'm surprised that the quartering actually managed to move over time, obviously they don't build them like they used to.
Good callout. I'll see what I can find. Regarding the quartering, perhaps more a result of my dodgy track work in some way? Who knows.

Do you know the name of the connector? I know they're the 4-pin ones but need a hint on what to search for on rs exports
 
Count the wires, I think there were 6 but this is over 15 years ago:



or if you are sure there are only 4


If it is something else then perhaps ask PhilP PhilP who will now be along as I just called him, he has more sparky knowledge than I.

Edit: Both the second and third suggestions are the correct type of connector with 'teeth' that bite through the insulation of the wire to make contact, the two parts only have to be squeezed together with pliers. They are readily available as four- or six pin flat connectors but look at the images to be sure.
 
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Getting the exact connectors is problematic, unless you get 'proper' LGB spares. - You find a listing in an old catalogue, and when you follow it up they have not been in stock for years, or you have large MOQ's (Minimum Order Quantities)..

I might manage to sell 1000 LEDs, but 1000 LGB idc connectors? That may be a leap of faith too far? - How long before Marklin phases out the big old-school chunky connectors in the LGB range?

There is also the added 'hit' of duties, since we left the club..

PhilP.
 
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