New to the Forum and G Scale

[maxi-model]

R1 - 30 degree x 12 = 360
R2 - 30 degree x 12 = 360
R3 - 22.5 degree x 16 = 360
R5 - 15 degree x 24 = 360

I've never used below R3 Thank you for the guide. However, could the track geometry, offering too tight a curve R1/R2, be part of the problem ? If everything, apart from the loco is bogied stock, with truck, not body mounted couplings (?) Issue may only show up with the loco. Ease the curves ? But then you will end up with an octagon or a hexadecagon. Just a thought. Max

 

[TTaannggss]

And yes r1 track is a total pain in the butt. So I am warning others. It is ok for a siding maybe but not a main line.

 

[dunnyrail]

And yes r1 track is a total pain in the butt. So I am warning others. It is ok for a siding maybe but not a main line.

A part brick mounted on a loco did make me laugh, but point taken Re R1’s. We nearly all start out with them and some have more luck than others. Heck I have 3 quarter curves on my line, but always slow speed through them.

 

[JimmyB]

And yes r1 track is a total pain in the butt. So I am warning others. It is ok for a siding maybe but not a main line.

Obviously reverse "S" bends with R1 exacerbate the issue.

 

[TTaannggss]

Ok. You Brits did say you like humour. I am slowly plugging away at my snow plow...should be ready in a week or 2.

 

[Madman]

Welcome aboard, John.

 

[Fred2179G]

These trucks are inferior and need some work to make them better.
The spring on my one has little effect too.

Hoping that you don't have cracks like that, there is an easy way to make the truck work. If you remove the two nylon spacers shown in the photo (thanks, P) with a screwdriver, the whole truck gets loose and essentially fully compensated and will handle all kinds of rough track. Do remember to put a strip of insulating tape down the middle to keep the two metal strips apart.