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Johndoor69

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I’m new to G Scale but not new to model railroading. This year I added a G-Scale train to my Christmas decorations in my yard. A little about my set up, I have 84 feet of track (a single radius followed by 6 sections of straight track then another single radius - forming a large circle or dodecagon if you want to be technical but we will call it a circle). I am running a Bachman 4-6-0 steam locomotive follow by a coal tender and a few freight cars... Now for my issue I am hoping someone has some ideas, the traction wheels on the locomotive have no issue, none of the freight cars have any issue, but the 4 - "guide wheels" on the locomotive keep derailing, (speed has not seemed to affect the ability of the wheels to stay on the track. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I was thinking of possibly adding a heavier spring to the guide wheel assembly, maybe increasing the down pressure would keep the wheels in contact with the track, Thoughts? I am open to suggestions or ideas. Attached are a few photos of my setup when i was getting started.
Train #1.jpegTrain #2.jpeg
 
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PhilP

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Welcome to the Forum, John!

Lots of good advice, but some very dodgy jokes. You have been warned. ;)

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Paradise

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Welcome to the forum John. :)

The pilot truck on earlier Bachmann 4-6-0 locomotives were flimsy and tend to eventually break. The truck tends to flop about too. Later versions of the same locomotive have a far better metal pilot truck. I think the newer trucks are no longer available from Bachmann parts unfortunately.

If it is an early flimsy truck you can stiffen it up with a couple of sheets of styrene glued each side butted together on the top of the truck with a central cut out for the central post/wires. Make the added top sheet full width of truck. Better to use one large sheet but the wires need to go through the middle therefore some re-soldering is required.
Some lead sheet glued on top of that can add weight to help keep the wheels on the track. Wrapping the lead sheet to insulate it could be a good idea too.

I took a picture of a replacement chassis I have (early version) and low and behold, it has a crack each side adjacent to the spring so that is the case in point. These trucks are inferior and need some work to make them better.
The spring on my one has little effect too. :(

SAM_6440.JPG
 
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mike

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Welcome to the madness
 
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Some people add weight, but you really should try to improve your trackwork. Just laying boards on the ground does not guaranteed flatness in either the along the rails and across the rails dimensions.
 

idlemarvel

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Welcome on board John. I have no advice to offer on your particular issue except have fun!
 

Paul M

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Welcome to the forum John, lots of good advice on here, but there's some terrible jokes going
 

Gavin Sowry

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First, make sure that your track joints don't have any kinks in them. Then check that they are level and smooth over the joint (no humps or hollows). Then, the most important bit, get a bubble level, and make sure the bubble is dead centre, not even a little bit either way... that is the main cause of derailing anything, particularly the front truck of the Bug Mauler ! Oh, welcome aboard.
 

Paradise

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Some people add weight, but you really should try to improve your trackwork. Just laying boards on the ground does not guaranteed flatness in either the along the rails and across the rails dimensions.

Yes, I totally agree Greg. I figured the track level had already been checked and was reasonable but it only takes a small dip. The axles aren't sprung individually so they are like a 4 legged table on undulating ground.
 

maxi-model

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I've had an idea........


Adds play value to your layout. We did warn you about the humour here. :)
 

Paul M

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I've had an idea........


Adds play value to your layout. We did warn you about the humour here. :)
The witches hat I remember in Paddington Rec, swayed from side to side too. There wasn't any cross pieces at the lower end.
John, has anyone warned you about thread drift?
 

dunnyrail

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Welcome to the forum. Good track helps but not always possible to keep perfection, that bogie (pony truck to us in U.K.) should be able to keep to the track even with some track imperfections. I had the same issue with my Big Hauler, one of the very early ones to come into U.K. so did not have the wire issue as it was battery powered. But some lead on the pony certainly helped. It was later converted to an Irish 2-6-0 and the pony obviously cut down in size, extra weight now even more important to keep those pony wheels on the track.
 

DafyddElvy

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I've had an idea........


Adds play value to your layout. We did warn you about the humour here. :)
When did they become vintage playground items, they were great fun.

Something like that isn't the stupidest idea, straighten it out and it would be called a cable stay bridge.

Now thinking completel6y off at a tangent :D I can think of something else that's a similar triangular shape at this time of year :giggle: I wonder if domestic management would notice wee addition to the decorations, and not just the track I had running on the floor last year.
 

David1226

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The modern incantation of the Witches hat is a far more sedate affair, rotation only, mind you it was all new to my Grandsons when they visited from the Us, back in June.

ip 0014.jpg

David
 

Fezwig

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I’m new to G Scale but not new to model railroading. This year I added a G-Scale train to my Christmas decorations in my yard. A little about my set up, I have 84 feet of track (a single radius followed by 6 sections of straight track then another single radius - forming a large circle or dodecagon if you want to be technical but we will call it a circle). I am running a Bachman 4-6-0 steam locomotive follow by a coal tender and a few freight cars... Now for my issue I am hoping someone has some ideas, the traction wheels on the locomotive have no issue, none of the freight cars have any issue, but the 4 - "guide wheels" on the locomotive keep derailing, (speed has not seemed to affect the ability of the wheels to stay on the track. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I was thinking of possibly adding a heavier spring to the guide wheel assembly, maybe increasing the down pressure would keep the wheels in contact with the track, Thoughts? I am open to suggestions or ideas. Attached are a few photos of my setup when i was getting started.
View attachment 307129View attachment 307130
Welcome to the forum!
With regard to your "guide wheels" or pony truck problem, you seem to have a few humps on your track, if you stop your loco with the driving wheels (what you call traction wheels) on the top of one of the humps, have a look at the pony truck wheels, if the drop away from the hump is to steep, the wheels may be hanging in mid-air above the rails, if so that's why they come off at that spot. simply pack up the track at that point (or if you can, lower the hump!) another thing to check mainly on curves, Is the outside rail lower than the inside rail? if so, the pony truck wheels will want to go straight and not round the curve! pack the outside rail to make it level. have you got a "Spirit Level?"

Enjoy the forum, ask anything, someone will come along and help, we all started so there are no silly questions. Apart from the dodgy humour, some things don't translate to well across the Atlantic, don't worry, well work it out :)
Good luck and enjoy.
 

TTaannggss

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Welcome to the forum John. G scale is a challenge. I was getting derails as well with my f unit. So I added a concrete block to the front of the engine. As well as used a bubble level to level my track. It did help but still get the odd derail so good luck.
 

maxi-model

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One thing occurs to me - "dodecagon". I think the issue m8ght be more than meets the eye. Now if this is indeed a twelve sided layout, with identical curve segments, you have 12 curve pieces. Which if my geometry is right says each curve will be 30 degree segments. I dare say I will be corrected,. And do tell me if they have been cut and shaped individuallly from flexi track rather than pre- formed "settrack"

Now, I am familiar with 22.5 and 45 degree curve segments being supplied for settrack but not 30. Question - If you just made a simple circle (no gaps between rail ends) with your curves, how many would you need and what would be the resulting circle's radius/diameter ? It would help to know their make and any pRt number moulded into a sleeper (if any). I still think you layout could be made as a witches hat, or a Christmas tree. Welcome to the forum. Max
 

Paradise

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One thing occurs to me - "dodecagon". I think the issue m8ght be more than meets the eye. Now if this is indeed a twelve sided layout, with identical curve segments, you have 12 curve pieces. Which if my geometry is right says each curve will be 30 degree segments. I dare say I will be corrected,. And do tell me if they have been cut and shaped individuallly from flexi track rather than pre- formed "settrack"

Now, I am familiar with 22.5 and 45 degree curve segments being supplied for settrack but not 30. Question - If you just made a simple circle (no gaps between rail ends) with your curves, how many would you need and what would be the resulting circle's radius/diameter ? It would help to know their make and any pRt number moulded into a sleeper (if any). I still think you layout could be made as a witches hat, or a Christmas tree. Welcome to the forum. Max

R1 - 30 degree x 12 = 360
R2 - 30 degree x 12 = 360
R3 - 22.5 degree x 16 = 360
R5 - 15 degree x 24 = 360

lgb-tracksystem-160_large.jpg
 
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I had similar thoughts, i.e. smooth continuous circle vs straight sections terminated with curves.

Clearly the "straight" - "hard right" - straight is "tougher" on a loco, continuously jerking the pilot into a sharp curve and then jerking it back straight is not great.

But looking at his application, to put it down temporarily under a "Christmas tree" was a goal, and making a curved wood base is much more effort.

So, I replied to try to help him with what he has, not to try to get him to change it completely with more track, more work, more cost.

Greg