New to G gauge

No, I doubt seriously that the SD70 will even work at all alone... I would say the GP38 would not navigate the R1 curves, but I have never tried... my F3's definitely won't.

Grinding in this case would be extreme pressure on the flanges against the rail heads, caused by curves too tight (sharp).

You can actually see metal shavings from the rails or wheels when there is this condition, and the rail head and/or flanges wear rapidly. There is also undue pressure put on the locomotive drivetrain.

I did some more research and some people report that they have run GP38's on 4 foot diameter curves, but 5' much better. One guy reports F3's on 4 foot curves, but I have tried that personally (I have 10 of them) and I think he is wrong.

Reading this thread and searching the Internet will give you more real examples of people doing this... http://forums.mylargescale.com/29-beginner-s-forum/1789-usa-trains-minimum-curve.html

Greg
 
The video cannot convey the concerns of too tight corners. Like I said the GP38 will apparently run from all I could find... the fact that it moves does not mean you are not straining the loco's ability to go around corners.

Anyway, your question was about the SD70, bigger, longer, 3 axle trucks, all different.

Greg
 
Ref "wheel grinding" if you have 3 or more axle motor block then the outer wheels are out of line with the track and you tend to get grinding of the flanges against the track. This can happen on long wheel base 2 axle motor blocks as well. The middle wheels are out of alignment horizontally (left to right) and even though the manufacturer will have allowed for some play (movement) there will be grinding there as well. Sometimes they make the middle wheels flangeless to avoid this.

BTW my flag is now German - I haven't emigrated, just on holiday, currently in Cologne.
 
I think this is linked to the distance between shafts

STAINZ 8,50 cm
GP38-2 9,50 cm (2 trucks of 4 wheels )
PIKO BR112 10.00 cm (2 trucks of 4 wheels )
BACHMANN 4 6 0 13,00 cm

I never heard about wears with the LGB Stainz accordingly I consider this as the safe length between shafts.
The GP38-2 one is very close. There is no limitation issued by Piko for the BR112.

As you mentioned on my Bachmann engines, the middle wheels are flangeless.

Unfortunately I don't have the length between shafts of the non articulated part of the trucks on the SD70 .
 
Do not forget that different locos have different amounts of sideplay in the axles. In the case of Aristo, it's huge, which allows 3 axle diesels to run on 8 foot diameter. The USA trains locos don't have that sideplay, but it's basically a 2 axle truck with the first axle in a swiveling housing. Different ways to allow tighter curves.

Still no on the 4 foot diameter ones.

Greg
 
I have a question. Someone is selling Lionel brass track. It is two rail but it has pins. Can this track be used with Piko, Aristocraft or LGB?
 
That Lionel track is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo rare that I've never seen any. Stick to the brands you can get easily, those that have been previously mentioned here, knowing that they are [mostly] compatible.

My 2c.

tac
Ottawa Valley GRS [www.ovgrs.org]
 
If your trying to save a bit of cash Nicholas (and why not) search the secondhand stuff. Most dealers have some. Dont bother with ebay though - it is often more than new - god only knows why, and even he is not sure!
 
Nicholas said:
I have a question. Someone is selling Lionel brass track. It is two rail but it has pins. Can this track be used with Piko, Aristocraft or LGB?
Click to expand...

I started in the 1980's with Lionel track. It had an extremely hard brass. The original Lionel brown tie hasn't been produced for so long that the gauging from the no doubt brittle by now ties is going to be somewhat variable. Gauging after 15 years or so was the problem I had. This free advice is probably worth what it cost you ;)
 
Even if it fits or can have adapters made does the Lionel stand up to continuous outdoor use ? - e,g. UV light proof, resistant to constant temperature changes over a period of time, etc'. As Stockers says stick to the tried and tested stuff that is made to work in the garden environment as well as together. Oh, and should be easy to shift and have a reasonable re-sale value if you ever need to sell on. Max.
 
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