New Loco for Bachmann's Thomas range

ACD134

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Do not be surprised if the loco stops with brief power interruptions... I found that reducing the DCC speed step to 0 and then resuming operation brings it back to life if it is now picking up power.

Will be modifying for keepalive capacitor... really a crappy decoder but it was cheap and it has the Thomas family sounds.

Not sure if you have worked this out as your post is two years old but if you are running a Thomas DCC decoder on an LGB or similar powered G1 then the track voltage is too high and shuts down the decoder.

Solution is 8 off 1N4001 diodes, 4 in series and the other 4 opposite polarity in parallel with the first to provide a voltage dropper.

My four locks all work fine now without shutting down.
 
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Are you using the same Bachmann decoder? No overvoltage issues for me, I'm a hair under 24 volts, like 23.7.

Also you even quoted me, it happens with brief power interruptions (over switches), nothing to do with overvoltage, which if true would happen anywhere on the layout.

What is your actual track voltage (read with a true RMS meter or equivalent)

By the way, there's a simpler way to do a voltage dropper, it's been on my web site for a long time. (clearly you use one full wave bridge and vary the number of diodes "in the center" for the drop required.

Also 1N4001 diodes are only 1 amp, that is not a good idea, should be at least 3 amps or more depending on the loco.

Greg

dropper.jpg

diode_dropper.jpg
 

ACD134

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Are you using the same Bachmann decoder? No overvoltage issues for me, I'm a hair under 24 volts, like 23.7.

Also you even quoted me, it happens with brief power interruptions (over switches), nothing to do with overvoltage, which if true would happen anywhere on the layout.

What is your actual track voltage (read with a true RMS meter or equivalent)

By the way, there's a simpler way to do a voltage dropper, it's been on my web site for a long time. (clearly you use one full wave bridge and vary the number of diodes "in the centre" for the drop required.

Also 1N4001 diodes are only 1 amp, that is not a good idea, should be at least 3 amps or more depending on the loco.

Greg

Hello Greg,

Thankyou for your comments,

I hadn't seen your web site prior to this reply so have had a read, quite a lot of information within, Thankyou

Let me start by saying that I bought four of these module (I know expensive) soon after they were released so they have been running without this problem for about three years now.

Let me explain why I believe the problem is related to track voltage, and for your information my track voltage is 22.9V with a true RMS meter.

When I initially installed the four units, including lighting, all four locos were test run on my indoor test track and performed faultlessly, the problem only manifested itself on the outdoor track where the symptoms you describe were experience at some points and also bizarrely on one section of very dirty track. This occurred with all four locos.

Back on the test track, and I couldn't replicate the problem. The only difference was my indoor test track was on a different DCC system, one that is only intended to drive up to O Gauge, which as you are probably aware has a track voltage around 18V.

To evaluate this I used the indoor system (lower voltage) power pack on the outdoor LGB system and low and behold all four locomotives ran faultlessly over the whole layout, (about a 60 meter run).

To work out what was going on I coupled one of the sound modules to my Scope and started poking around, the results were interesting, you yourself have said the boards are not particularly good and this is certainly the case when it comes to back emf control (or snubbing), when running on 22V with intermittent contact I picked up power spikes in the motor control circuits hitting 29V, and this is when the problems occurred.

The instruction manual makes reference to not exceeding 28V in analogue mode so to me was another clue.

The installation of the diode string has brought the spikes down to just above 26V and all is OK.

As I say since modification, I have had no further issues in three years.

I was aware of the way of using a Bridge Rectifier with a diode string but as I often have piles of single diodes around I used them.

I would agree about using 3 Amp diodes in general but bearing in mind the Bachmann Thomas Locos only draw about 700mA when loaded and by using the back to back string they are only on a 50% duty cycle they don't even warm up after hours of running.


Subsequent to the above I was talking to a UK DigiTraxx supplier and installer, and he acknowledge that it was a know problem an the diodes is the solution but one the don't talk about officially.

I believe the NMRA standard for a Gauge 1 DCC control is it should be capable of receiving up to 40V, I know the ESU units do.


I see you are still looking at a stay alive connection for these modules, I have found that a stay-alive coupled across the obvious power points will happily keep the lights running and the sound working but no traction current. I have let this one rest at the moment but may start investigating further during this unprecedented lockdown we are experiencing.

Anyway I trust you find the above helpful

Andrew
 
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Well, as I said, the issue I was having was stalling, and without touching the loco, reduce DCC speed to zero and back up, the loco takes off every time (without touching it).

since this ONLY happened crossing a switch, it's hard to come to any other conclusion for THIS problem.

But, since I have a Zimo system, it's easy to turn down the system voltage and see if there is any change in behavior. I have had others concur with the same issue, you have to issue a speed 0 to continue.

Thinking of all angles, perhaps the power interruption caused a spike, so lowering the voltage will give me some more data.

Greg
 
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dennishodge

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I have several different locos and have added the manufacturer’s DCC to all of them. Thomas/Percy had factory DCC and run fine (although my first Percy had a mechanical error and looked as if it was going to tear itself apart!). Emily runs great. James, however, isn’t as smooth running and stalls occasionally for an unknown reason as you are describing. I haven’t figured it out yet.

These are definitely “bang (and fun) for the buck” locos (DCC and sound equipped loco for $200) rather than typical smooth running LGB.
 
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Try this if it stalls under DCC.... turn the speed back to zero, wait a couple of seconds, and then bring up the throttle again. If it starts running again, you are seeing what I see.

Greg
 

ACD134

Medically Retired, G scale and 71/4 in the garden.
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[/QUOTE]
Hello, if it is stalling as Greg has suggested are you able to reduce your track voltage? I believe Greg has a switchable supply on his Zimmo system. Try running at the O Gauge setting of 18V. If you can't switch to lower then before taking a soldering iron to a loco try a diode dropper circuit in series with the track feed. You can use similar to Greg's circuit posted above. This will temporarily reduce the supply to the locomotive decoder to see if the issue is the over voltage issue I had. Be aware of total loading on the diodes if direct to track as everything powered via the track will be drawing current.

If this resolves the issue you can then incorporate the diodes into the locomotive.

My James also has pickups on the pony truck wheels which ironed out the last few running glitches.

Hope this helps