New 3D printed locomotivesting

[seigezapf]

I've tried my hand at 3D printing a couple more locomotives. Both are fashioned after real locomotives, but only as inspirations. I haven't tried to exactly duplicate them, instead only using them as inspiration.

The first is inspired by a Lehigh boxcab. The main sections are from
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2170643

Here is the actual locomotive:


And my 3D printed interpretation. It is powered by a Lionel handcar drive.


The other is inspired by a British GER C53 steam tram locomotive. The main sections for this one are from
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1379253

Here is a photo of one of the C53 trams.


And here is my interpretation. It is powered by a Lionel 0-6-0T drive. I glued the cow catcher too high on the frame. Once welded though it can't be changed, so I am in the process of printing another complete locomotive.

 

[playmofire]

They look good.

 

[mike]

Fantastic.

 

[Tony Walsham]

Nice work.
I can suggest better motor blocks.

 

[seigezapf]

Thanks for the responses.

Tony, I used what I could find cheaply and what I had around. Also these locomotives are pretty small. The Lionel motor blocks have a low profile with the exception of motors that are vertical and can be covered with interior pieces. On the other hand they aren't very powerful or, I imagine, robust. I am definitely interested in your suggestions for motor blocks as I plan on making more of these.

I am hoping to do an RC6 electric but so far have not been successful in printing the parts. I am brand new to 3D printing and have a lot yet to learn. The RC6 is a Bo-Bo. I was thinking of rebuilding a couple spare USA motor blocks I have, but have so far been unable to find replacements for worn worm gears. I believe they have a 2.3mm bore which I believe is common with some Chinese motors but not readily available here in the USA.

 

[Tony Walsham]

The Aristocraft 2 axle BB block is the best power truck ever made IMHO.
It has one axle able to twist around the motor axis and provide a three point suspension which helps compensate for a lack of skates.
I don't like their 3 axle blocks.
USAT motor blocks are likewise very good because they have skates.
Is it the worm on the motor shaft or the worm gear on the axle that is worn. I have never heard of a worm wearing out. The latter should be available from USAT complete with wheels.

 

[seigezapf]

Thanks Tony. It is the worm on the motor shaft. Actually one of the worms on the motor shaft on each of the motor blocks is worn in the center to the point where there is very little gear left. The motor blocks were used and part of a bunch of parts I got on eBay. I have no idea how a plastic axle gear could wear down a brass worm gear like that. Maybe someone at one point tried to fit a steel axle gear or something. Mystery to me.

I wondered about that Aristo design. Thanks for the clarification.

Craig

 

[casey jones snr]

I've tried my hand at 3D printing a couple more locomotives. Both are fashioned after real locomotives, but only as inspirations. I haven't tried to exactly duplicate them, instead only using them as inspiration.

The first is inspired by a Lehigh boxcab. The main sections are from
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2170643

Here is the actual locomotive:


And my 3D printed interpretation. It is powered by a Lionel handcar drive.


The other is inspired by a British GER C53 steam tram locomotive. The main sections for this one are from
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1379253

Here is a photo of one of the C53 trams.


And here is my interpretation. It is powered by a Lionel 0-6-0T drive. I glued the cow catcher too high on the frame. Once welded though it can't be changed, so I am in the process of printing another complete locomotive.

Simply wonderful.

 

[Hairbold]

I've tried my hand at 3D printing a couple more locomotives. Both are fashioned after real locomotives, but only as inspirations. I haven't tried to exactly duplicate them, instead only using them as inspiration.

The first is inspired by a Lehigh boxcab. The main sections are from
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2170643

Here is the actual locomotive:


And my 3D printed interpretation. It is powered by a Lionel handcar drive.


The other is inspired by a British GER C53 steam tram locomotive. The main sections for this one are from
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1379253

Here is a photo of one of the C53 trams.


And here is my interpretation. It is powered by a Lionel 0-6-0T drive. I glued the cow catcher too high on the frame. Once welded though it can't be changed, so I am in the process of printing another complete locomotive.

 

[Hairbold]

I quite like your C53 tram loco

 

[Thomas Lambo]

Well done...this is something I've been pondering on for some time.

Thanks much

 

[seigezapf]

You are welcome Thomas. Caution: once you start making stuff, you'll think of so many possibilities that you'll get hooked. I'm working on a larger boxcab (AGEIR), a steeple cab, and a more modern electric (RC6) plus I have been making all sorts of pieces for the interiors of my rolling stock.

 

[ge_rik]

How long does it take to print a complete loco body?

Rik

 

[seigezapf]

Hello Rik. Printing is a slow process. My printer is a fairly basic entry level one so others may be faster. Also my print bed is limited to 200mm by 200mm by 180mm. So I couldn't print a whole G scale locomotive. I print parts and weld them together with Weld-on 3 solvent (pretty near instant weld). Large parts like the sides and roof of a box cab can take 8-14 hrs. each. Smaller parts can range from less than an hour to several hours. My printer has been running 24/7. So a whole locomotive (sides, front, back, frame, roof, small parts) will take several days. There also is a learning process about print times. For example, how an object is oriented as it is printed can make a difference in print times. I have so many ideas going on that I have ordered a second printer to keep up. But one printer and patience will do fine.

Craig

 

[PhilP]

So...
Same amount of time to research, and draw your plans, as any other form of 'scratch-build' modelling?
Then the printer takes a similar time to you cutting, and gluing parts together from scratch.. - Except some of the finer detail and texture is added, I guess?

I suppose the added details saves time, but the extra time needed to get smooth surfaces, er smooth, counters this?

I suspect it is about the same amount of time, but spent differently, to conventional modelling?

 

[seigezapf]

My experience in conventional modeling is very limited. I have modified some with plasticard. The type of modeling you refer to that involves research and drawing plans is at a much greater skill level than I have. I don't think I know enough about that type of modeling to make a good comparison.

So far with 3D I have used a bit from Thingiverse and modified where needed on Tinkercad for my purposes. I have also build some elements from scratch. While Tinkercad is versatile it is basic. I have loaded another program called Fusion 360 which is much, much more sophisticated. I believe that with Fusion 360 you could create whatever you can think of or find through research. It is used in industry to create functioning products in many materials.

I believe that someone with a working knowledge of that program could create models that could be 3D printed that would require a very high degree of craftsmanship to create conventionally. I don't have that knowledge in Fusion 360 and likely won't gain it anytime soon.

I believe you are right that the time spent in making basic models might be equivalent. I also believe using a sophisticated design program would make creating detailed models more accessible and less time consuming using the 3d process. There is a fellow on Thingiverse who has designed and printed a highly detailed 4-8-8-4. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:259005/#files The list of parts to be printed is huge and it would take quite a while to print them much less put them together. In fact "Paul Fischer spent between 700 and 800 hours drafting and another 1,000 hours 3D printing the locomotive on a MakerBot Replicator 2 Desktop 3D Printer." If that were made conventionally how long would it take?

 

[dunnyrail]

I reckon in 28-30 days at 24/7 one woukd make pretty much anything in G scale with some skill at Metalwork and turning. Problem is we rarely have that time available so if it takes that much time to do the drafting then for most of us unless we can get our hands on pre drawn oarts FOC then 3d printing could well be one of those nice ideas but.... However whee I see it playing a part is with repetition. Now I am about to embark on a project completing excersize and I willbe needing 4 Bogie sideframes. To make one up from scratch will be around 3-4 hours work. If I could draft one in that time and print all 4 the saving is well worth the effort.

But of course then comes the time taken to learn 3d drafting, I could do it in 2d almost blindfold on my CAD package, but would need to learn a new one which is where the rub comes in. So perhaps what I will do is make one then a mould for the other 3 by using the Resin Moulding stuff I have secreted in my loft. Providing it is all still in good order!

 

[PhilP]

Think you have it right there Jon...
Make a 'master' (by whatever means) and then go to a conventional process for repetition..

I am guessing, unless you print in ABS, a resin signal post et al would be more resilient than 3D printed offerings?

You would also only spend time making good the finish once, as cast-copies would have the better finish??

 

[Northsider]

My experience of using CADCAM for modelling (laser cutting and 3D printing) is that the research is the same, the drawing (or scaling from a photocopy) takes quite a while, and the manufacturing takes a period of time which may be less, the same, or more than conventional modelling techniques. But the accuracy and repeatability (horrible word, beautiful concept) mean that once you have the drawings you can make as many as you want, and they will be accurate. I have found this to be great for passenger and goods stock, but less useful for locomotives.

 

[seigezapf]

I am new to all of this technology, but I think objects designed on CAD programs usually can be converted to files that a 3D printer can recognize. I think it is also possible to convert 2D to 3D in a program like Fusion. It is also possible to easily change the scale or dimensions of already created objects to fit specific applications and to add to, remove from, and merge parts. Different filaments have different properties in regard to durability, flexibility, transparency etc.