Nequida 2.4ghz conversion

MickyF

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I want to replace the 27mhz (very poor range) system in my cheap Nequida locos (2 of them) with 2.4Ghz. I've looked at the Deltang systems and think they are the way to do it but I'm struggling to buy the kit and also not sure exactly what I need. I'm looking to build my own transmitter housing (ex electronics engineer) so just want to buy modules. Has anyone succesfully converted one of these Chinese locos?
 

GAP

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I used pololu simple motor 18V7 controllers coupled with a HobbyKing 2.4 GHz 4Ch Transmitter Version2 Mode 1, a HobbyKing 2.4Ghz Receiver T6A-V2 and 10 NiMH cells to make a nominal 12V battery .

Tramcar Trev once a frequent poster on here built his own transmitter case using the HobbyKing transmitter innards. I think he posted how he did on here a few years ago might have to do a search for it.

Found this on a blog he wrote, it may help give you some ideas.
 

dunnyrail

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I want to replace the 27mhz (very poor range) system in my cheap Nequida locos (2 of them) with 2.4Ghz. I've looked at the Deltang systems and think they are the way to do it but I'm struggling to buy the kit and also not sure exactly what I need. I'm looking to build my own transmitter housing (ex electronics engineer) so just want to buy modules. Has anyone succesfully converted one of these Chinese locos?
Think the answer with the Newquid Locomotive would be to strip out all the inside gubbins and control the motor direct from the Deltang kit. If you are struggling to get Deltang you could look at Fosworks but may need to get all of the kit from him. I would certainly replace the Led’s with a softer Yellow, you could retain the lighting circuit. That sound (music in the manual) should also go and perhaps be replaced with a MLS. Though this is Fosworks the layout shown in Post #42 of this link should help:-


if you do go Deltang their receivers act as Speed Controllers as well so the Viper can be omitted. good luck with the conversion and welcome to the dark side!

Though this does not answer you question directly, there is nothing tricky about the beast once you get to the basic motor and chassis. I have one that I used in another project and have the chassis kicking around that I tested out using an old H&M Controller, worked just fine on blocks with good controllability.
 
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PhilP

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David (Mr Deltang) seems to have stopped listing the kits..

Mainly, I would guess, for the same reason 'we' (the Resellers) stopped selling them. - We mostly end-up 'fixing' (rebuilding) them for the Customer, so loose out on the deal!

The instructions for the Deltang transmitters are still on the website, so you can see what is involved.. I do not list the Tx2 on the RC Trains website, but can supply you with one (and bare receiver/controllers) if you wish?

Note the RC Trains Rx65c's are loaded with slightly different software, making them compatible with both MyLocoSound and m-Tronics sound modules without additional programming.

PhilP
phil@rctrains.co.uk
 

dunnyrail

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Further to this, yesterday I coupled up my left over chassis to my Train Engineer DCC Battery Test Rig. Went quite well for a few seconds in the garden then a massive bang and smoke. Cue Dunny instantly switching the rig off lest the DCC setup got trashed, fortunately all was well except that a gizmo of some sort wired between the 2 white wires as seen below had attempted to do a firework demonstration. Now I have heard of these beasties exploding and in an odd case ending up with a minor conflagration. Looks like I have found the reason. Perhaps what was present was some kind of resistor / suppressor or such like to help prevent TV or Radio Interference. It has completely disappeared in that puff of smoke.
D831EFEC-7BCE-4DB9-B702-F7B3D68E61AF.jpeg
So this morning I tested out the motor and it worked just fine, so again I have tested it on the Test Rig and it is working just OK. So yes now I have proved that it is possible to run a Newquid chassis on another system. But beware that dreaded gizmo joined across the Motor Terminals. Vid of the setup running, sorry was just a quick proving test in the Garden, B cold out there but it has also run for a time indoors as well.

 

PhilP

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Looks like I have found the reason

Jon!
You were only supposed to take the body off! ;):rofl::rofl:
(to paraphrase Michael Caine..) :)

The 'ickle suppression crapacitor must be a really low-voltage device!? :(:rolleyes:
 

dunnyrail

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Jon!
You were only supposed to take the body off! ;):rofl::rofl:
(to paraphrase Michael Caine..) :)

The 'ickle suppression crapacitor must be a really low-voltage device!? :(:rolleyes:
The basis is a 7.2 Battery, not sure if I was pulling that many volts at the motor DC. But of course with the original Music (sound) and lights perhaps the max at the motor would be somewhat less.
 

Rhinochugger

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The 'ickle suppression crapacitor must be a really low-voltage device!? :(:rolleyes:

.......................must have been ................. shirley :think::think::think:

It is no more :devil::devil::devil::devil::devil:

Nothing like a good snap, crackle and pop ;);)
 

MickyF

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Further to this, yesterday I coupled up my left over chassis to my Train Engineer DCC Battery Test Rig. Went quite well for a few seconds in the garden then a massive bang and smoke. Cue Dunny instantly switching the rig off lest the DCC setup got trashed, fortunately all was well except that a gizmo of some sort wired between the 2 white wires as seen below had attempted to do a firework demonstration. Now I have heard of these beasties exploding and in an odd case ending up with a minor conflagration. Looks like I have found the reason. Perhaps what was present was some kind of resistor / suppressor or such like to help prevent TV or Radio Interference. It has completely disappeared in that puff of smoke.
View attachment 260834
So this morning I tested out the motor and it worked just fine, so again I have tested it on the Test Rig and it is working just OK. So yes now I have proved that it is possible to run a Newquid chassis on another system. But beware that dreaded gizmo joined across the Motor Terminals. Vid of the setup running, sorry was just a quick proving test in the Garden, B cold out there but it has also run for a time indoors as well.

This is very helpful! Not yet dissembled the loco but when I do the first thing that will undergo surgery will be the "white thing across the motor" (whatever it is - suppresor probably). I'm waitng on Phil hopefully to sell me the boards for the RC. I'm going with RX65C and TX10. 2 of each so I have a set for each loco. I'll build the hand held box.
I've neen working hard on my points control and signals. I'm using Arduino with servos for the points and the servo hits a microswitch that works the signals (bi-colour leds). All housed in a signal box built from scratch using my cnc router and 1:24 plastic windows. Loads of wiring but I made some PCB's on my the router as well -worked a treat! Love your layout and enjoy watching the go-pro vids! If my layout acheives a morcel of yours I'll be well chuffed! regards Mick
 

dunnyrail

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Usually a noise capacitor will have a limited voltage, and from 7.2 to maybe 24 volts, that could explain the explosion.
As the Battery was a 18v one you are not far off the mark Greg.
 

dunnyrail

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Sorry, saw "DCC" instead of "Train Engineer DCC setup" and reasoned it was track power. Too quick on the draw.
No worries, I had got a big power supply battery to possibly fit into a Harz 2-10-2 but I never managed to pull it apart. So it acts as my test battery now, certainly a bit too much for that suppressor on the Newquid Motor even when fed via the TE Battery DCC Test Rig.
 

GAP

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I opened mine up today and found I used a 10.8V battery (9NiMh cells), not 12V as I thought, when I used Max speed the thing went like a greyhound.
To me it just looked so fast that it was not realistic.
Mine has been earmarked as a possible conversion to a Garret using the motors/motion works from 2 surplus to requirement Stainz that I have.
The NQ motor chassis may be used for another loco if I ever need another one. but most likely will become a track test dummy.
 

dunnyrail

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I opened mine up today and found I used a 10.8V battery (9NiMh cells), not 12V as I thought, when I used Max speed the thing went like a greyhound.
To me it just looked so fast that it was not realistic.
Mine has been earmarked as a possible conversion to a Garret using the motors/motion works from 2 surplus to requirement Stainz that I have.
The NQ motor chassis may be used for another loco if I ever need another one. but most likely will become a track test dummy.
With a decent RC system top speed could be regulated though most will work quite happily on less than 10.8 volts power supply