My first attempt at G scale

AddictiveBiscuit

AddictiveBiscuit

Steam Locos, Armoured Vehicles and Aviation
After spending a lot of time working on OO gauge layouts I decided I might as well have a go at a garden railway while I have the chance! Always wanted a G scale railway since I was younger and I finally have the chance now I'm older. Most of my locos and stock are made by Bachmann, most of it being based on East Broad Top Railroad locos and stock which has very much lead me on to naming my garden railway The East Broad Top Railroad (I'm not very creative anyway so I wouldn't be able to come up with anything good ;)) I've also go plans to add a East Broad Top part of the line based on one of the stations.. I've still got a bit to learn as the insulated points business has confused this OO gauge modeler :D

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This is what I've got done so far

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I bought some Piko R5 points but when these two are joined everything stops working I have been told I've got to use isolation rail joiners and a switch but I'm not entirely sure how to go about doing it!

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This is what I hope to end up with at some point! The station area is going to have a light basis on Orbisonia station on the EBTRR and I hope to scratch build the station building. http://static.panoramio.com/photos/large/37887323.jpg

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Bachmann EBT No.10.. Unfortunately needs a new chassis as it has some problems.

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Done a bit of night running as well :)
 
Welcome aboard - I very recently bought a new chassis from Bachmann in the USA as they were having a half-price sale - might be worth going on their website to see if the sale is still on.
 
royale said:
Welcome aboard - I very recently bought a new chassis from Bachmann in the USA as they were having a half-price sale - might be worth going on their website to see if the sale is still on.
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That sale is still on.. I should probably get one.
 
Looks like a great start to me. As for your reverse loop question, there are a few ways to solve it. You could manually reverse the polarity at each loop. Or you could get a hold of an LGB reverse loop module. Both of these will need insulators installed in the rails at the reverse loop. Along with the LGB module you could install 12010 switch drives with supplementary switches attached. This set-up would automate everything in the reverse loop, including the turnouts.

Or, the simplest solution would be to eliminate the connecting track to the left of the two sidings, in your diagram. You would still have a nicely designed layout.

One more solution would be to convert to battery power. This last choice eliminates a multitude of potential issues. Wiring, reverse loop operation and track cleaning, just to name the three biggies.
 
Looks good to me, as it's been said you created reverse loops and as such that's the problem with with electrical shorts.

Points are g scale are non insulating- the power flows to both directions, it doesn't matter which way the points are set,

Dan
 
You have made a great start in the G Scale adventure.

Another way to solve the reverce problem, and it looks like you have the Track and Space to do it. Loose the Bottom Revering Section but keep the Loop. Move the crossing to one end and create a siding in the Middle by using 3 Points. Do the same at the other end and use an LGB (or Massoth) Reversing Loop Module for the Middle Siding with Isolators on all the Tracks leading from the Middle Point to the outside Rails. This Track will look very attractive, you can pass Trains change direction or just store a Train in it. You could even with Point Changin run Figure of 8 Train Workings. You can always update the sidings that you have robbed for this Track at a later date.
JonD
 
A very good start! Everyone above has mentioned the reversing loop problem, and possible ways round it, but I don't think anyone has yet asked if you are using analogue (DC) or DCC power and control?

Jon.
 
Thanks for advice everyone, I should mention I'm on DC I only have a simple LGB controller currently. I'm going to keep stuff simple for now.
 
In that case, if you want to automate a reversing loop (so that no operator input - like reversing the controller - is required to traverse the loop) then I believe that the current Massoth reversing loop control module will operate on DC analogue as well as on DCC.... earlier versions were strictly for DCC only. I'm not sure if the latest version of the LGB equivalent also has the DC capability or not, others can no doubt answer this definitively?

On DCC control, in theory it is possible to have multiple reversing loops on the layout (as your track plan has) while only needing ONE of the control modules for it - but I'm not sure if the same applies to using the module in DC mode, or if you would need a module for each loop?

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
In that case, if you want to automate a reversing loop (so that no operator input - like reversing the controller - is required to traverse the loop) then I believe that the current Massoth reversing loop control module will operate on DC analogue as well as on DCC.... earlier versions were strictly for DCC only. I'm not sure if the latest version of the LGB equivalent also has the DC capability or not, others can no doubt answer this definitively?

On DCC control, in theory it is possible to have multiple reversing loops on the layout (as your track plan has) while only needing ONE of the control modules for it - but I'm not sure if the same applies to using the module in DC mode, or if you would need a module for each loop?

Jon.
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It says in the description that it works on analog but in certain conditions. I haven't a clue how I'll do this wiring http://www.dragon-gscale.co.uk/lgb-55081-mts-reversing-loop-module-184-p.asp
 
While you're at this early stage of track development I would suggest that you look at the possibility of going with battery power to eliminate one set of potential problems - similarly I would also look into raising the track to table top level to eliminate a whole 'nother set of potential problems - principally with your knees and back! .... :)

And don't underestimate the joy to be had from looking at your trains from realistic angles instead of just seeing mainly roofs all the time.
 
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Trainman 864 said:
While you're at this early stage of track development I would suggest that you look at the possibility of going with battery power to eliminate one set of potential problems - similarly I would also look into raising the track to table top level to eliminate a whole 'nother set of potential problems - principally with your knees and back! .... :)
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I'd like to stay with DC so I haven't got to be spending more money buying new bits.. If this reversing loop is to big of a problem I might end up removing it, although I don't want to as it adds quite a bit to running and possibility for shunting. I'm only 18 so the track being at ground level isn't a issue for me :)
 
AddictiveBiscuit said:
. I'm only 18 so the track being at ground level isn't a issue for me :)
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Lucky you!! Twice!

I/ To be able start to this so young. You've a lifetime of fun in front.

2/ Not being troubled by those effects - - - -YET!

The first half of my life was spent with much grubbing around on concrete floors (without protection) pulling and shoving under motor vehicles of all sizes. My back, neck, knees and wrists remember it only too well. :worried::worried: Take care, and be sure to guard against later similar problems. I was told the same, and took no notice - - - I was young and invincible! :rock::rock: :shake::shake::shake::shake::shake:
 
Madman said:
Here is a link to the LGB reverse loop set. To me, and I like things simple as you do, it's the most straight forward solution and not too costly.

https://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?ID=200805936

Here is the wiring diagram, also simple to do.

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Would them short bits of track have to fit between the two points (Switch, whatever you want to call them) Because if so I don't think I'd be able to fit them. I can understand them diagrams its just because I've got another point that carries on so there is two tracks running side my side is where I can't understand it. Wouldn't isolation rail joiners work so when the loco goes over them you would have to turn the controller power the other way?
 
AddictiveBiscuit said:
Would them short bits of track have to fit between the two points (Switch, whatever you want to call them) Because if so I don't think I'd be able to fit them. I can understand them diagrams its just because I've got another point that carries on so there is two tracks running side my side is where I can't understand it. Wouldn't isolation rail joiners work so when the loco goes over them you would have to turn the controller power the other way?
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I presume the short bits of track you are referring to would be the 1015K & 1015T. Yes, you would probably need to cut the adjoining track to fit them in if your track plan is that rigid.

Without the 12010 switch drive and the 17100 contacts shown in the diagram, yes, you would have to reverse the throttle when the train passes through the loop.
 
AddictiveBiscuit said:
I bought some Piko R5 points but when these two are joined everything stops working I have been told I've got to use isolation rail joiners and a switch but I'm not entirely sure how to go about doing it!
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Nice railway, loads better than my first attempt!

The crossover points are causing the short circuit. Do you really need them, are you sure that it will add that much? You will be able to reverse a locomotive direction around the track and possibly a train too but to return it to the original direction you would have to reverse over the crossover, if your track is on a nice solid base, no problem but in the real garden, care would be needed.

Going back to the short cicuit, you can get around the problem as others have said by using insulated sections, reverse polarity switches and reverse loop modules however to use any of these you will require an insulated section long enough to fit your longest train with room to spare, we must assume that you will have some rolling stock with metal wheels, they will cause a short as well.

I like Dunnyrails solution, with third, isolated centre track between the double track section. assuming I understand it correctly. That does add a lot of possibilities, providing you understand his suggestion! Took me a while! The centre track must be long enough as above and you would require the polarity switch or reverse loop module for it.

The simplest solution is to take them out of the track plan and allow for further expansion such as Dunnyrail's suggestion.

Don't forget that garden railways are addictive, the only limitation is the size of your garden!

Alan
 
Because I wouldn't be able to explain through text it I've quickly made this up on Paint of how I wanted it to work, the loco is red the brown is the freight train.
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Looking at it them points might not be needed but I sort of did it this way to fit in with the EBT style of yard I was going for.. I'll have to have a think about it.
 
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