My Edrig bash- long term!

B

brianthesnail96

Registered
Hopefully some progress should start soon, it's only taken 3 months to get this far!
Not sure if this should be here or scratchbuilds really.

As you may or may not know, I ordered an Edrig chassis from TrackShack some 5 or 6 months ago now. Due to an order miscalculation, John being one short on the chassis order and me being the lucky name out of the hat, it was actually an Edrig in green when it arrived.

Never actually liked Edrig (sorry folks), hence ordering the chassis, so it wasn't going to stay standard for too long. Tried a couple of concepts in paint, and this one was my favourite:

Edrigboxtank.jpg


So I removed the gas tank and valve and shifted it back a bit- less than a cm but it makes a noticeable difference as it lets the bunkers be that bit shorter and the tanks that bit longer, makes it more balanced aesthetically. The overflow valve was also moved back slightly, I found I could just fit it in on the same side if I elongated the hole slightly. Will get some photos of this- but see Chris Bird's article in GR 'cos he did it a lot better than I did! This also meant I couldn't use a standard size servo on the other side for the reverser, which you ain't getting photos of 'cos the mounting brackets are awful!

Before taking a saw to the Edrig bodywork to make the bunkers I thought I'd do some rough and ready 3D mock- ups using card (empty beer cases :lol: lots about in a student house...). This is pretty close to what I want; it looked better last night (but still pretty poor, mostly due to the masking tape and permanent marker construction techniques!) but it's had a ride home from Plymouth to Gloucestershire since then, as you can see it's suffered a bit in transit- the cab was straight and the tanks were parallel with the boiler once! You get the idea though. The bunkers are a few mm higher than they should be but other than that it's pretty much spot on dimensionally, so your thoughts are appreciated!

DSCF1543.jpg


DSCF1544.jpg


DSCF1545.jpg


DSCF1552.jpg


DSCF1555.jpg


DSCF1554.jpg


DSCF1556.jpg


Sorry, a bit photo heavy. But your internet can't possibly be worse than mine!

Probably won't see much of an update until after Christmas now, when I'm back at uni I hope to get started putting it into metal. The only "new" metal will be the pannier tanks, cab back and roof. The bunkers will be cut down Edrig tanks, the cabsides made from the offcuts, and the spectacle plate incorporated into the cab front as shown, but reprofiled to give a more traditional curved roof. I hope.

Progress is likely to be slow, with lots of mistakes made and questions asked. Watch this space, but don't hold your breath. Comments welcome, if you think it (the concept, not the card!) looks poo or will never fly, please tell me...
 
Hi Matt
That looks really great - I like the chunky pannier designa lot! Edrig is such a good loco to modify and some panels to play with is a real bonus.
One thought - might it be better to make a new cab front as reprofiling might make the roof a bit near the spectacle rings? Those brass rings are just a push fit.
I look forward to seeing progress.
Cheers
Chris
 
Hi Matt, hope all finds you well.

I really like the modifications you have mocked up. Really improves the looks of the model, and keeps it "chunky" looking.

Chris Bird said:
Hi Matt
One thought - might it be better to make a new cab front as reprofiling might make the roof a bit near the spectacle rings? Those brass rings are just a push fit.
I look forward to seeing progress.
Cheers
Chris
Click to expand...

Chris, I thought the same thing at frist, but the flat/tight radius curves is giving me a real "industrial" vibe, which (if I remember correctly) was what Matt was going for in the past?

Keep us updated Matt!
 
cool, the concept is an improvement over standard for sure. looking forward to seeing how your metal work is... do you have access to a uni workshop and tools? very nice, and ambitious. like it...
 
mbiff said:
u can leave the flat section of the cab and just shape the roof like i done to this playmo loco :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Yes I like that idea Mark, and to follow Matt's industrial theme what about some ventilation holes in the extra bit above the existing cab front. Some of our industrial loco had, possibly "after market" holes just under the cab roof. Hmm hope that makes sense.:-
 
Matt it's coming along very well, looks good.

Just one thing. Do you think the cardboard might catch fire?:rolf::rolf::rolf:

Keep us posted mate :)
 
The pictures are blocked at work, shame, but I saw the ones on the coffee room thread. I just can;t get away with the flat cab roof, although I agree with Garrett that it does give a very home made industrial look to the engine, I just don't like it!!

The rest looks good though, that chunky look like DJB's Robert (I seem DJB himself is reading!) is effective. Kerr Stuart?

Keep at it Matt!!

Neil.
 
When we added a cab to Edrig a curved top filler was added to the spectacle plate. You can either use it as a former as part of the roof or fasten it to the plate as an extension.
Btw, our cab roof hinges forward - a design copied from Ron (Corgi) of Oz, if I recall.
Otherwise, a nice design; I like the tanks, look forward to the finished article.

Dave
 
Cheers folks.

In order, I think:

Chris, you are dead right, and I hadn't even considered that- thanks for saving me lots of time reprofiling it then realising I've messed it up!

Garrett, it is indeed supposed to be a chunky industrial loco, and I don't mind the roof actually- but I think it will look better with a curved one. I'm tempted to try with this one though, as the only bits I'll have to throw away if I change my mind are the cab back and roof. I may well just bow to NHN's judgement and go for the curved roof, he won't be happy otherwise!

Mark/ DGT (OK, any sense of order has gone to pot now) I'd rather not make it any taller than it is, or at least only very slightly- I quite like the slightly squat look it now has. So if I go for a curved roof I'll do the front plate from scratch and just use the existing one as a template for making the bottom edge with the curve over the boiler.

NHN, same piccies- but as I posted them at about half 10 no-one saw them!

Steve, I'll keep them where they are for three reasons- 1) if I shorten them they will make it look even more like the DJB Robert, 2) I think it'll mess up the proportions but mostly 3) I was planning on bolting them to the bunkers to hold them in place at the back- drilling and tapping the boiler probably isn't the greatest idea.

Graham, I'll test that later. I suspect as it's "painted" with permanent marker we'll get some really interesting pyrotechnic effects!

Uni workshops are a moot point, lets not go there. I suspect my metalworking skills are awful, hence trying to keep it simples.
 
Hi Matt
How do you plan to support the tanks at the front? The Simply 7/8ths Baldrick XT uses large brackets to the footplate - presumably because someone, sometime will pick it up by those tanks ......
Cheers
Chris
 
Steve, I'll keep them where they are for three reasons- 1) if I shorten them they will make it look even more like the DJB Robert, 2) I think it'll mess up the proportions but mostly 3) I was planning on bolting them to the bunkers to hold them in place at the back- drilling and tapping the boiler probably isn't the greatest idea.
Click to expand...

Matt, the solution to this would be to suspend them over the boiler, like a real life Pannier tank. Maybe somer brass straps or something or fasten them to the boiler bands? But if you qwant o go for the proper industrial look, the fact that the metal is different sizes, different thicknesses etc will represent the changes the loco has gone through in it's working life so it may look more prototypical.
 
The plan was to fit some brackets to the inside of the panniers, drill and tap (having very, very carefully measured them!) a suitably positioned hole so that I can drill through the smokebox (again, very carefully- the holes need to be exactly on the centreline height wise, i.e. the widest point) each side and bolt through to the tanks. Won't be as substantial as the Baldrig XT arrangement, so if I feels it need it I'll fit some similar (but less overengineered) brackets to the footplate too.

Must admit James' idea of mounting them to the boiler bands has some merit too. Depends if they could be fitted (soldered to?) the bands off the boiler and then fitted into place without it all coming apart! I think having the bunkers securely attatched front and rear (as the standard sidetanks are) with the panniers bolted to the bunkers at the back and to the smokebox at the front is the easiest course of action. No need to tap at the back as it can the panniers can be bolted to the bunkers off the loco and the whole lot dropped on. Actually it might even be possible to do that with the smokebox too, as that's easily removed on an Edrig and would save me procuring a set of taps and dies. Then the whole superstructure including the smokebox could just be dropped/ slid into place on the boiler/ chassis.
 
That sounds good to me Matt. The nice thing about freelance design is that you develop the ideas and practicalities as the project progresses. Nuts and bolts are certainly easier for this, but a 6 and 8BA tap are useful things to have.
I think this is going to be a very nice loco!
Cheers
Chris
 
Just realised how incoherent my earlier post is- 9 hours in the Co-Op is to blame methinks! I'll try again tomorrow.
 
brianthesnail96 said:
Just realised how incoherent my earlier post is- 9 hours in the Co-Op is to blame methinks! I'll try again tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Sadly Matt your reply makes perfect sense to me :rolf:
 
Chris Bird said:
That sounds good to me Matt. The nice thing about freelance design is that you develop the ideas and practicalities as the project progresses. Nuts and bolts are certainly easier for this, but a 6 and 8BA tap are useful things to have.
I think this is going to be a very nice loco!
Cheers
Chris
Click to expand...

Time to invest in some metric taps and use metric hex heads.
 
You are right of course Ron - I still had my Roundhouse bashing brain switched on! Mind you, the BA taps are very useful......and I use the small head bolts which look better.
Cheers
Chris
 
Yes, M2 bolts of various sorts are avialable here. The only place I found a set of taps was at Stoneleigh. They are very useful. Well done Accucraft for using M2 as standard. Makes things so much easier.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom