Most Durable Recessed Track
- Thread starter 3Bird
- Start date
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
One of our previous members (Spike) set some of his rails in a mortar / concrete mix where he needed access; from memory it was at least double track. You'd need to install a check rail (safety rail) to allow for filling the centre of the track tramway style, and you'd need to make sure that this centre infill is fully bonded to the concrete base to reduce the likelihood of frost attack in air pockets.
I don't have any pictures of his trackbed (I visited on a couple of occasions) and I doubt his pictures from G Scale Mad days are still available.
I don't have any pictures of his trackbed (I visited on a couple of occasions) and I doubt his pictures from G Scale Mad days are still available.
Another option would be to put the track in a trench that is just Rail deep across the path, LGB Track being elephant proof will take the varying traffic just fine. But if you still have worries an insert to the track of plastic the depth of rail mounted on top of the sleepers to match up the the trench will suffice.
I cut a paving slab in half and put the tracks through that, before doing what Rhinochugger suggests. True it hasn't been through a winter yet, but it seems OK. Mind you, you need to ensure that the gap between the running and check rail is such that it's easy to remove any debris that will definitely get between them. I'll send some pictures soon.
Gizzy
A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
I did similar to Paul M above. I cut up a paving slab for the spaces between my double track with Mr Angle Grinder (No relation to Mr Lump Hammer!)
I filled in the 'four foot' with some recycled plastic packing, the sort used to protect the edges of boxes, and just screwed this to the sleepers.
Although I've moved house several years ago, I still have the track with the plastic insert on my railway and it has not deteriorated over time....
I filled in the 'four foot' with some recycled plastic packing, the sort used to protect the edges of boxes, and just screwed this to the sleepers.
Although I've moved house several years ago, I still have the track with the plastic insert on my railway and it has not deteriorated over time....
korm kormsen
Registered
if you need just a straight track, you could use some aluminium curtain rails.
like this:
like this:
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Buy Room/Dividers/Now Ceiling Curtain Track Rail, White (3ft Wide): Window Treatment Hardware - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
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Madman
Registered
You mention that you live in Maine. I'm sure your frostline in deeper than ours is in PA. I'm not too fond of placing the track in concrete in areas that have freeze-thaw cycles. Unless you dig down to below the frostline, you could experience heave. I would imaging the frostline in Maine to be deeper than the three feet it is in southeastern Pa.
In your area I would dig down about a foot to a foot and a half. Line the trench with landscape fabric. Fill the trench with 3/4" crushed stone, but leave enough depth at the top for a piece of manufactured decking board, like Trex or something similar.
Rest the board on the crushed stone bed and backfill up to it's edges so that it will not move laterally. Now fasten the track onto the board and cut pieces of the same type board to fit between the rails and one both sides of the track.
This might do a better job of explaining.
In your area I would dig down about a foot to a foot and a half. Line the trench with landscape fabric. Fill the trench with 3/4" crushed stone, but leave enough depth at the top for a piece of manufactured decking board, like Trex or something similar.
Rest the board on the crushed stone bed and backfill up to it's edges so that it will not move laterally. Now fasten the track onto the board and cut pieces of the same type board to fit between the rails and one both sides of the track.
This might do a better job of explaining.
3Bird
Registered
Great! Thank you. We go down to about 4 feet for frost line, so yea, I've been worried about concrete.
3Bird
Registered
That's really helpful. Thank you!
Hutch
G Gauge, Raising Peaches, Apricots
Looks better than the local 1:1 Union Pacific crossing.
---Hutch
Here are a couple of pictures of scenic touches, but the principle is the same. Have used Hips, Plastic Coated Foamboard ans some other Plasticy stuff that defies any sort of glue hence being nailed in place.
3Bird
Registered
THe OP is talking of a grassed area to be crossed... A gated access.. AND Tractor traffic!
Do we mean a 'lawn-tractor', or something a little bigger?
Split-Jaw used to make just what you are looking for in custom lengths. Laid on one to two feet of gravel/paver base it would be perfect. Too bad they're out of business. I just got back from the pub so can't give you a pic but will tomorrow (actually later today). It might give you some ideas. I've got a 1.2m piece in the garage. Maybe you could recreate something similar with a 1.5m piece of flex track and casting resin. Pics to follow. By the way, nice Kubota!
Now, now family forum and all that
I would be tempted to put a concrete 'Pad' either side (deep as you can, and 18 inches square) with a 'steel' across the roadway. An extra board, or two, after the bridge onto the steel, and route a slot in the board on the steel to take the track.
I would probably leave the track unballasted, then a stiff brush could be wiped along the track before a running session to clear debris.
Massive over-engineering, but should be robust, and easy to maintain?
I would probably leave the track unballasted, then a stiff brush could be wiped along the track before a running session to clear debris.
Massive over-engineering, but should be robust, and easy to maintain?
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
3Bird
, reading your requirement again and the various replies I would think about a two prong approach, a section of track that is embedded in light weight plastic something similar to the second paragraph in post #7
But make this section removable, and could be replaced by a plank.
So for normal daily use the track remains in place, however for heavy movement the track is replaced by the plank, the track could also be lifted during cold whether.
Not sure how practicable this would or if it would even work, but certainly worth a thought.