More 'folly' frivolity

[Tim Brien]

At present probably just a thought bubble, but knowing I could never afford a Saschen K II locomotive, I thought could two modified Stainz be coupled back to back to get something similar.

Started by cutting 1" from the length of the Stainz drive. Firebox comes from a #2017 type LGB locomotive. Boiler was shortened to suit and cab modified. At present all is not secured in any way. If I decide to progress the project then will mount all parts permanently. Unlike the Saschen K II, I will attempt to connect the roof moulding on each cab so they are interlocked and pivot around each other.

 

[dunnyrail]

I had thought about just such a project some time back. But getting ready to move and building a new Garden Railway got in the way of the project. My reasons for it was that I had a couple of Stainz and the running is just too unreliable for good Timetable working. But two back to back with electrical continuity between them gives 10 pick ups and of course lots more grunt.

Looking forward to your progress.
JonD

 

[Dtsteam]

I like the stubby stainz - its definitely has a certain charm. Hmmm.... maybe time to inspect the mouldings pile.....

 

[Tim Brien]

Well, this is the general idea. Loco will track down to six foot diameter as is. Four foot is a possibility if the frames are spaced further apart (spacer under the brass stirrup) and more clearance allowed at the roof line for swing. I used the centre buffer mounting as my fixed pivot attach on one loco and a swivelling brass stirrup on the other. I can readily attach a loop couplerpermanently to each loco if I wanted separate motive power.

The brass stirrup is free to rotate on its mount to allow a little articulation. The idea is the loco is placed separately on the track and the 1/16" piano wire is inserted from the top aligning the two locomotives.

Now I need to devise how to attach all the parts securely. Also, I will fit floor panels to bridge the gap between the locomotives.

 

[Tim Brien]

Bridging floors fitted. The floor panels are affixed to one loco and thus bridge the gap, still allowing articulation. Photographs show full deflection in either direction. This equates to a six foot diameter curve.

 

[Tim Brien]

Mechanically now completed. Test run was more than acceptable. I added additional flooring to bridge the gap between the two cabs.

I need to add wires to the drive blocks for eventual DCC installation and will interconnect the two drives.

 

[Tim Brien]

Testing, testing and more testing. Like all really useful 'engines' it will get a nice shiny coating of black. A nice simple build that, while no Saschen K II, it still creates an impact and achieves my aims

.

 

[Madman]

Looks mighty nice to me, Tim

 

[Tim Brien]

Dan,
actually quite an easy build. I had no plan, but just solved issues as I came to them. The plumber's priming fluid is the secret to it all as it bonds the plastic very well. Once painted black the gap between the two cabs will be less noticable.

A Saschen would be nice but in reality this loco cost me nothing to build as everything was on hand. Most have the odd Stainz (or two) laying around so this could be a good project for those like me feeling the financial pinch.

 

[GJFREESTONE]

hi Tim
well you have given me a problem do I build my Garrett or do I have a go at one of yours .it is a great build and mine will have to go around on first radius because that is what my points are .as for those people with the odd stainz laying around and not required please think of graham as I never seem to be in the right place at the right time .money as you say is a bit of a pinch so when I go to Llanfair I will looking for a couple of bachman lilis to do my kit bash with .I can not wait to see your locos in there final colour .
Graham Shrewsbury

 

[Tim Brien]

Graham,
R1 diameter curves should not be a major issue. If you look to my coupling method, adding around a 3/16" spacer under the brass stirrup will space the two chassis slightly further apart. Then you would need more of a clearance on the cab roofline where they intersect. All trial and error. Cut little bits off the roof at a time and check regularly until you get the right amount of swing.

Mine is good down to six foot diameter curves.

Edit: while looking over my build photographs I noticed that one photo is wrong. The photo showing the brass stirrup mounting is inaccurate. The cab with the overlapping roof pivot pin should actually be mounted to the chassis with the solid plastic block through which the pivot pin passes through (in the photo the cab and chassis are opposite to what is required). This will be important if you are considering four foot curves.