Modelling filler

[KeithT]

What is the best filler for delicate areas?
I have used Milliput irn the past but I find it too thick and there is a tendency for it to damage flimsy material such as thin balsa as I try to press it in place. Wetting it helps but is not the answer.
It needs to be rigid enough to sand once set.
Some time ago I tried a green coloured filler the name of which escapes me but without success.

 

[Gizzy]

Was it any of these Keith....

Model Filler | eBay

 

[Rhinochugger]

There's a Humbrol filler in a tube - it's not bad, reasonably easy to use and can be filed and sanded when dry

 

[playmofire]

I've a tube of a product called Fast Drying White Putty although I haven't used it yet.

 

[JimmyB]

the deluxe filler is water soluble even when set - how do I know!!

 

[Rhinochugger]

Milliput used to be the stuff for many years (especially as my PA was related to the guy who made it and I could get free supplies) and it's OK on solid stuff like white metal kits, but there are better products for plastics and finer work

 

[David1226]

There is a fascinating series of videos on YouTube called Marty's Matchbox Makeovers. Marty is an Australian who does the most amazing repairs and refurbishments of old damaged Matchbox models. One of the techniques that he uses, which was new to me, is to replace missing metal with superglue and baking powder. Apparently it sets like metal, can be built up in layers and can be filed to shape. I have attached one of his videos, it's a bit long but the superglue/baking powder bit comes in about 2/3rds of the way through. There are other refurbishments on video where he builds up quite significant missing parts using this method.

David

 

[maxi-model]

What material are you trying to fill ( you have mentioned balsa ), to what depth and do you need to shape it ? The most versatile, and very soft, if you need to fill to some depth and be able to easily shape and sand too is a 2 pack car body filler like Isopon P38. If you are just doing a "skim", to smooth out a rough surface before painting, then Max Meyer "Acrylon" is one of the best. You should use a sanding sealer on any porous material before applying a filler. There are some fillers specifically formulated for wood but they can be a bit coarse if you want afine paint finish. Test a small portion of the material you are filling to make sure your chosen filler does not react with or damage the material. Max

 

[Sean.]

There is Bondo..

 

[Paul M]

Sounds silly, but have you tried exterior grade poly filler (or equivalent )

 

[Rhinochugger]

Sounds silly, but have you tried exterior grade poly filler (or equivalent )

 

[PhilP]

There is always the elusive Squadron Putty.. ??

I now have some of this, but have not used it yet..

 

[GAP]

What is the best filler for delicate areas?
I have used Milliput irn the past but I find it too thick and there is a tendency for it to damage flimsy material such as thin balsa as I try to press it in place. Wetting it helps but is not the answer.
It needs to be rigid enough to sand once set.
Some time ago I tried a green coloured filler the name of which escapes me but without success.

Sounds like "Green Stuff" used by wargamers.
I use a filler designed for plastic bumper bars for plastics, I have also used "body filler" that panel beaters use to fill dents.
I use an Acrylic gap filler for timber/Balsa, I sometime thin it a little with a few drops of water which makes it more spreadable but does take longer to dry before it is sandable.
I have just bought my first lot of Milliput to see how it goes.
Have you thought about plaster filler (known in Aust as Spakfiller or "Spakkle" in the plastering trade) for timber as well, I have again use it for Balsa.?
Any thing that builders use, that is applied by a spatula is worth a look at for timber.

 

[dunnyrail]

What about Vinegar and Brown Paper, only one not listed yet so far as I can see.

 

[JimmyB]

What about Vinegar and Brown Paper, only one not listed yet so far as I can see.

I thought that was for cuts and bruises!

 

[PhilP]

What about Vinegar and Brown Paper, only one not listed yet so far as I can see.

The vinegar leaches something 'funny' out of the brown-paper...


Makes the chip's taste odd!

 

[Paul M]

What about Vinegar and Brown Paper, only one not listed yet so far as I can see.

If you've got brown paper hanging around, what have you been buying from the interweb?

 

[PhilP]

If you've got brown paper hanging around, what have you been buying from the interweb?

Buffer-stops, a bridge, and a load of 'giiirdeeers'! - The final word to be said in an exaggerated Scottish accent, whilst thinking of an orange carbonated beverage!

 

[KeithT]

Many thanks for a positive plethora of ideas!
Oddly enough I saw a video about super glue and baking soda shortly after posting the query. Looks interesting
Fibreglass resin and Isopon I have used it in the past. It worked well for the purpose but I always seemed to get more on me so I am a bit wary. :-(
“Green Stuff” does sound familiar, thevtube I had seemed tindry out too wuickly and became granular, not good for sanding. Perhaps my tube was old stock.
However, I will look out for some of the products suggested..
Thanks again.
These are what I am filling.

 

[KeithT]

Was it any of these Keith....

Model Filler | eBay

Gizzy there’s certainly plenty to go at there!
Not sure if the stuff I had is included although it might possibly have been Squadron Green. It stuck to my fingers better than the model. :-(
I will have a dabble with one or two of those.
Thanks.