Mixing Brands

ARIA31

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Suggest you put here a pict of the 2 wagons looking at each other ( on same rail !!) just to see the issue to connect them.

This is how I raised the same question on this forum to connect an LGB uintah loco with Bachmann cars
 

rusty spike

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My rolling stock is mostly Bachmann big hauler and Piko. At present the only 1:20.3 item of freight rolling stock I have is the Accucraft caboose. It seemed a better idea to replace the Accucraft coupler (at least on one end) so it can run with all my stock which have the Bachmann knuckle coupling mounted on the bogies (trucks) My Bachmann Spectrum C19 came with a ‘joggled’ coupling in the bag of goodies which I fitted to allow it to pull the rolling stock. I have plenty of time to look around as I won’t be track laying until the spring.
 
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rusty spike

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Sorry I forgot to add a photo. This is an Accucraft coach and a Piko caboose.
I can’t get to my Accucraft caboose at present but this photo is just to show the disparity between coupling height.AA8FDED3-E9F9-458E-B929-BA6B189FD799.jpeg
 

maxi-model

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Take a look at Kadee's range. They do a number of different coupler mounts/pockets and the different height offsets for the knuckle to fit in them to get round coupler height differences between most makes.

I did it the other way around from what you are proposing on my USAT work series cars, that share the lower coupler height of the Aristo', Big Hauler, LGB & Piko knuckle items, to get them to run with my Spectrum/AMS Fn3 stock. It's natural for Bachmann to provide different offset couplers with their newer Spectrum locos and cars as supplied as they make the Big Haulers too and need to keep their users happy.

Kadee also have some standard conversion packages/references for known match up issues in the various large scale product ranges - though none for the Spectrum Shays, that have the Big Hauler coupler height only supplied (there is a fix for that if you ever need it :) ) I have found Kadee products to be a "life saver" when resolving these issues, either stock or subtlety modded. Max
 

Rhinochugger

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Can I jump in with a question please?
I purchased an Accucraft caboose (1:20.3) And wish to couple to my Bachmann stock. I looked at the Kdee list but I can’t find a ‘joggled’ coupler to drop down from the caboose to the Bachmann stock. Has anyone here found a reliable solution? Sorry for the hijack but seemed an appropriate thread to raise the question :)
Thanks!
Get hold of a Bachmann Spectrum 1:20.3 wagon and make sure that it comes with both alternative couplers that it had when new (straight and cranked shank) - it's the easiest way to do it :nod::nod::nod: and I've been playing with these two coupling heights, as well as the off link and pin coupler, for quite a long time ;);)
 

ARIA31

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From my limited point of view the possible way is get down the knuckle coupler of the car on the right side by inserting a plastic piece of your own design.

Then I would use the same coupler on both cars , in this case Bachmann couplers.

I think it is not possible to raise the Bachman coupler installed on the Piko Caboose due to the lack of space, particularly for the centering rod.
 

rusty spike

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I emailed Kadee and was advised the coupler to fit to the Bachmann truck is either the original #831 or the later#909.
Hope this may be of use to others:)
 

Rhinochugger

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I emailed Kadee and was advised the coupler to fit to the Bachmann truck is either the original #831 or the later#909.
Hope this may be of use to others:)
But, do they get over the height issue?

'cos from the bogie, you've got to crank up somehow :think::think::think: and I'm not sure how that would work without fouling the bodywork :oops:
 

rusty spike

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Here's a photo of the coupling, I think it should be ok......
Screen Shot 2019-12-20 at 10.45.41.jpg
 

maxi-model

UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
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But, do they get over the height issue? 'cos from the bogie, you've got to crank up somehow :think::think::think: and I'm not sure how that would work without fouling the bodywork :oops:

The USAT work car bogies are similar height to the Piko and the Kadee large offset bogie mounted couplers go to the correct height to couple to the AMS & Spectum cars and locos and do not foul the bodies. Max
 

PhilP

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Other than take the knuckle, what does the 'gearbox' do?

I assume it mount's rigidly to the car/truck, does it allow the knuckle to pivot?
 

rusty spike

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Other than take the knuckle, what does the 'gearbox' do?

I assume it mount's rigidly to the car/truck, does it allow the knuckle to pivot?
I believe the ‘gear box’ allows the knuckle to pivot and with spring tension return to centre.
 

maxi-model

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Other than take the knuckle, what does the 'gearbox' do? I assume it mount's rigidly to the car/truck, does it allow the knuckle to pivot?

Kadee make a number of different types of mounts depending on how you wish to fit the coupler to a loco/car - e.g. body mount, bogie mount, etc'. The "gearbox" (or mount) has a pivot moulded in that the base of the coupler shank fits onto and pivots on. There are pins moulded either side of the base of the coupler shank that locate onto the ends of compression springs that are supported by the rear plate of the mount - this arrangement centres the coupler. The couplers are available in a number of different "offset" configurations dependent of what you are trying to couple up. The "large offset" type are generally used where one is trying to match up what might be described as "G Scale" product, like USAT & Big Hauler with established Fn3 standard coupler height products from AMS & Spectrum.

Kadee do a really nice conversion for the Annie to give it both a working coupler at the front and a coupler for the tender that enable the loco to haul Fn3 standard knuckle coupler fitted stock. Max

Kadee - The Coupler People The site can be a bit bewildering to start with but dig down and you can find some really usefull solutions for coupling a lot of large scale manufacturerers disparate products.
 

The Tinker

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If your switches are R3 or greater Body mount all your Kadee couplers So many less derails and unwanted uncouples when switching. More prototypical and easy to mix and match rolling stock
 

rusty spike

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If your switches are R3 or greater Body mount all your Kadee couplers So many less derails and unwanted uncouples when switching. More prototypical and easy to mix and match rolling stock
I have R5 but I think the cost of replacing so many couplings will put me off for now!
 

The Tinker

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I have R5 but I think the cost of replacing so many couplings will put me off for now!
I have done 10 pairs at a time up to 50 now 30 to go I buy them 5 or 10 at a time taken almost 2 years so far
 

maxi-model

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In my case I ended up going down the Fn3 route wholesale, so I only needed Kadees for "spot" fixes. However one of the big selling features of Kadee couplers often overlooked is their magnetic uncoupling feature - if you are a fan of "train operations" then going the whole hog might be a must do




However in my applications I just use them for mismatch fixes. 1st picture - My Aristo 20' Gon', it works as a "match" wagon, track cleaner & scale speedometer. It's got some bits added to give it a more Fn3 feel. You can see a large offset, body mounted Kadee fitted to match to a car with an Fn3 standard height centre set coupler fitted.

20191222_091312.jpg

Next my USAT work series crane and the tender of my Bachmann Connie. Both with large offset truck mounted Kadees. As supplied in their original form both car and tender would have coupled up without the need to fit Kadees. However in my "all Fn3" world they are both anomalies and need fixing to mate to the regular Fn3 standard stock and each other. Don't ask me how I fixed the mismatch on my Bachmann 3 truck Shay.

20191222_091510.jpg
 
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artfull dodger

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I standardized on LGB knuckles(on my USA prototype rolling stock, my UK style uses Chopper style) as they were the most trouble free in daily use with rough track work and at one time I had all R1 curves. Having since gone to a raised line with 10' diameter curves, I could go to Kaydee, but see no sense as I would not use the magnetic uncoupling like I do in HO scale, and with the LGB couplers, I have their pin connected to my cut levers, so I can uncouple cars that i set out at industries just like a brakeman. While the LGB Knuckle is larger, its operation is flawless compared to others I have tried(other than Kaydee which are just as nice but lack the ability to connect to the cut levers). As to freight car size, the older LGB wild west style cars mate well with the old Kalamazoo brand which is now mostly made by Hartland Locomotive Works, Delton/Aristocraft classics and the older wood style USA brand cars along with older Lionel Large Scale cars. The more modern LGB freight cars do well with modern USA and modern Aristocraft style. But some folks mix and match to their heart's desire. If it looks good to your eye...its your railroad! I only try to keep with USA style cars behind my USA style live steamers and UK style behind my UK style live steamer. Mike the Aspie