May I ask a question about adhesives here, please?

Bill Barnwell said:
Sarah, nothing sticks to LGB sleeper/ties,
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I haven't investigated LGB sleepers, however, there are a number of materials that are almost impossible to "glue" and polythene is one of those materials, and it seems that LGB sleepers may come under this heading.
 
BakerJohn said:
Sarah,
If you want a cleaner alternative, I've been using very small screws to reconnect the rail where the tie plates have broken on my sleepers (almost all of my track is second hand, so there's some repairs to be done!). If you're interested in going that route, let me know! I'll get the information together and snap a photo or two for you!
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Please post photographs John. It will be interesting to see. I welcome any sort of visual information because, what is the saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" especially for some one who doesn't read very well.

Thanks.

Sarah
 
Sarah Winfield said:
I have some of this but it is quite old and whilst not rock-hard it isn't very pliable either. Does a member know whether it is possible to rejuvenate it, please?

Sarah Winfield
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Some years ago I spoke to the son of the inventor of this product, he now markets the stuff, he said that it does not need to be rejuvenated and should still be able to be used, even if, as you say, it had gone stiff, can't say that I had much luck with the old stuff and just replaced it with new
Dave
 
Zerogee said:
Sorry to by picky, Dave, but the blue and yellow stuff isn't Milliput - it's generally known as "Greenstuff", for the fairly obvious reason that it is, as you say, green when uniformly mixed.
Milliput is also an epoxy putty, but comes in grey and yellowish sticks, or in colour variations for other grades (there is a "silver-grey" ultrafine grade).

"Greenstuff" was originally a plumber's putty, but was discovered by modellers and especially figure sculptors a long while ago and is one of the favourite modelling materials for a lot of the very best model figure designers.

Jon.
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Aha Green.
 
Sarah Winfield said:
I have a variety of adhesives including "super-glue", contact adhesive and I recently bought some new 2 part epoxy glue similar to that well known brand.

The beauty about 2-part epoxy glue is that it dries hard unlike, I have found contact adhesive, which always seem to be tacky.

Does any member, please, know of a one-part epoxy type glue instead of the usual two part?

It is for gluing sleepers to rail where they have become detached.

Thank you.

Sarah Winfield.
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Sarah if the sleeper in question is between 2 sleepers, still attached to the rail and is only cosmetic then drill a hole in it and bend a piece of stiff wire (8 gauge fencing wire if available) into a staple shape or tent peg shape and push that into the ground to hold it in place, If its anything like the ones I used it will be still there in 10 years time and a bugger to get up when you have to get it out (been there done that just recently) as it will rust and bond to the soil no glue involved just a bit of paint to hide it.
 
Hi All,

I don't use glue. I find that using an air soldering gun melts the LGB plastic enough to weld the broken ties onto the sleepers. You can also melt a piece of LGB offset (from coupling mouldings etc.) onto the sleeper and form it using a screwdriver or knife. This is strong but hard to get it to look good. Also used the same method to repare check rails on LGB points.

Geoff
 
Sarah Winfield said:
Please post photographs John. It will be interesting to see. I welcome any sort of visual information because, what is the saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" especially for some one who doesn't read very well.

Thanks.

Sarah
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Sorry that took so long, Sarah! I was too lazy to walk outside in the rain so I repaired a different switch instead. Note the screw on the last tie. I took a photo of the screw packaging too. However, for this I used a shorter screw, I think its a 5/16". camerafv5_0828.JPG camerafv5_0827.JPG camerafv5_0829.JPG
 
I have to say that I am much more of a "why bother" frame of mind. We used a lot of second/third/fourth(?) hand track in our layout and there are many spots where the sleepers have come loose. If it's purely cosmetic and you can't see it from more than 10 feet away I'm not going to worry about it. I'm going to spend the time planting another marigold.

Sophie Boone
 
Various powders can be mixed with 2 part epoxy resin, in order to stiffen it so it doesn't slump. Talcum powder, wheat flour (seriously), wood dusr, Portland cement, even metal powders. Boat builders use wood dust to run fillets when joining panels of marine ply together.

https://davidneat.wordpress.com/mat...s-for-resin/common-fillers-for-resin-casting/

I mention this because Plasticine can be used a a moulding material around a broken LGB sleeper. Place Plasticine mould in freezer. Mix resin & fast hardener & add powder of choice. Pour resin into mould & allow to cure. Then you have a sleeper that will bond to a rail. There are a number of "how to" videos on YouTube. Good luck.
 
daveyb said:
CT1 is a brilliant mastic,,, i imagine the gorilla mastic is good too,,,,
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I have found that used outside the Gorilla mastic parts company after a couple of years. :(
 
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with any stick jobs,, try and prep with a bit of exterior pva,,, bung it in your mortar too,,, it helps so much
 
I have found with most exterior joints that some kind of "Mechanical" as well helps. In that I like to drill a hole with a small bit and insert a Household Pin or such sized wire. I believe this helps stop movement as well. Slightly drifting from Sarah's original question but always worth saying in a Gluey thread. I also like this stuff for Plastics, I get it from my local Gibbs and Dandy but should be readily available as builders use it for sticking Drain Pipes together. Do not be tempted to by a Tin of the stuff with a brush, it will go off before you use it all. The Tube is much more the preferred way to buy it.
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